70 Cam Guy
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Everything posted by 70 Cam Guy
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My first Z wasn't really a Z28 but it was my 70 Camaro My first Datsun Z is current car and I love it! Great to see you carrying on the love and good memories! -
They tucked it in there nicely. It is too bad you had all the extra expense. I guess that's the cost of doing R&D sometimes. On to new projects now
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Might I suggest updating the first post to also request tire size along with your wheel specs (if known). Maybe if you're lowered too My car has: Rota RB-R 16x8 +4 in hyper black General Exclaim UHP 205/50/16 coilovers by AYates Photos, on Flickr by AYates Photos, on Flickr
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I just hit the strut housings with the flapper wheel on my grinder until they slid on. I did each side even and haven't had any problems. It really didn't look like I was going to gain what I needed but that's great if the scissor jack works!
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This was all I had in the middle of my exhaust. It was perfect with the header and rear muffler. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-630805/ With the stock manifold and a only a rear muffler (flowmaster at the time), it was never too loud (for me). Maybe my hearing is not as good The smallest diameter glass pack/resonator/mufflers on Summit I found were these. 3.25" dia http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KOK-R250-14/ not sure how much different this would make it but it is stainless and likely would cut some noise These all specify 3.5" body diameter, all pretty cheap. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Exhaust/Part-Type/Mufflers/Inlet-Diameter-in/2-500-in/Outlet-Diameter-in/2-500-in/Case-Shape/Round/Universal/Yes/Case-Outside-Diameter-in/3-500-in/?Ns=Price|Asc
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I am using the Hawk street pads (HPS). The race pads really should only be used on the track because they are designed to work in optimal heat ranges. Too cold or too hot and you lose braking effectiveness. They can also be very aggressive against the rotors http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/compounds/ http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php The HPS pads on my car survived my track day wonderfully and are great on the street. The bite is awesome and they've been dead quiet. I would assume they'll perform similarly with the 4x4 calipers
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Looks good Arne! Nice work Exploring ideas sometimes turn into more work than we wanted but I think the end product looks good. Not many are going to have an exhaust like yours. If it makes you feel any better, my Magnaflow seemed like it was the same volume for the time it was on my car.
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My understanding of headers is the 4 into 1, 6 into 1, and long tube V8 headers make their best power up top. The 6-2-1 or other tri-y designs improve torque and mid-range but don't see the same gains up top. In the case of a mostly stock L28, I think either will have the same or very similar benefits. To Arne's point, there's a big convenience factor with the 6-1 header from MSA since it bolts to their premium exhaust.
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I basically had a clone of the MSA exhaust on my car since last summer. My old Clifford header, 2.5" pipe to Summit glass pack, out to a 2.5" in/out Magnaflow. It sounded great, wasn't obnoxious, and I never had an issue with drone on the 400 mile haul to Long Beach. Arne, I don't remember if you have a header, but if you're running the stock exhaust manifold, it will be downright quiet.
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Nice work, better suspension changes the whole car. I still feel like all the hard work was worth it on my car
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2.5" should be plenty on a NA L24/L28. The car/exhaust you are using for an example looks to have a custom fabricated Stainless exhaust. The TIG weld is visible just under the car. Full stainless can be super clean but also cost prohibitive. You can buy a muffler like that from a number of companies. You'll have to look around. First companies that come to mind... 5Zigen, Apexi, Magnaflow?, etc. They likely sell universal fit ones with the inlet and outlet you desire.
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Spray the back end of the muffler flat black when it's done and the resonated tips will POP. I think it will look and sound great. I was toying with this idea for a long time. I think I even know which tips you're using, they were on my Summit wish list for months! remember to protect that chrome when you have it welded! The exhaust shop will know though, they do it everyday
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I would say they are certainly predictable choices but in many cases, they fit the look of the car. Wheel choices are very personal and mostly we buy what like on the car. You could almost compare it to a woman choosing a purse. I have the RB-R's but wouldn't mind another set to change it up once in a while. In general terms, the banana spoke wheels are very popular among the classic Japanese car crowd. I love the Hayashi Street rep's from Rota but many don't. I also like that most Z cars don't look like the next one. Everybody has their taste for air dams, bumpers, wheels, colors, interior, engines, louvers, mods, etc. Even though my wheels have become popular since I've purchased them, I still like them and I feel like the rest of my mods set my car apart from the rest of the crowd.
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215 on a 9.5 is super stretched. I've seen 215's on a 9 but normally see 225 or 235 on a 9.5 and 10" wide rim. We're talking stretched tires here not normal fits. The question about the -19 in the front, you might run into problems with the front valance panel turning the wheels. I'm not sure though
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I agree, check for power and ground on those circuits. The circuit diagram in the FSM is a little hard to follow but it did help me in chasing down the damage. When my voltage regulator failed, it was my accessory relay that melted.
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I'm probably going to echo some comments but here's my take. #1 verify all your parts are torqued #2 verify no movement of inner tie rods #3 inspect the wheel bearings #4 verify wheel balance #5 Might as well do the TC rod bushings (they are cheap and easy) or do like I did and get the ball/cup upgrade with a stock bushing in the rear position http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC10/23-4190 #5 Have you inspected your steering rack bushings and coupler joint? This would cause more steering wander than anything else, and loose steering #6 Alignment - this is a must have after any major suspension work Hope this helps
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Am I reading that correctly? You really picked up 20 rwkw from the header+exhaust? 60 to 80kw? (80 -107 hp) Is it the 65kw (87hp) line? I remember doing my header/exhaust and remember the immediate improvement in my throttle response. I didn't think I gained that much horsepower but seat of the pants and responsiveness was telling me I gained something I personally feel the best gains were getting my SU's dialed in, the ZX dizzy, and the exhaust. Make it breath better and spark better. All combined was nice drivability and great throttle response.
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Yeah that's partly why I like them so much. I can rotate them properly. I believe the 18s I have are a V rated tire with a good tread life warranty... 45k? can't remember but that's plenty for me with the performance they bring. I watched my friend tear up the track on his 912's and they've handled the rain well on my car, they really are a great tire. I have the General Exclaim UHP summer tires on my Z. They've been awesome
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Looking good! The 912 is a great tire, I've got them on my Honda and my friends have tracked on them. I ended up with summer tires on the Z, the asymmetrical tire wasn't a requirement with it and I wanted the extra grip.
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Sick! I'd rock that too! I am still loving my RBR's. I don't know if I'm in the minority but I also like the Hayashi replicas
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My friends all love the Dunlop Direzza Star Specs for track and drift duty. Afraid I don't know how loud they are because their cars are loud Some like the Falken RT615 Azenis, I believe they only come in 215/45/16 and 225/50/16. I've also seen different guys running Bridgestone RE11 and RE050's but I don't know much about them. I wasn't too happy with my last set of Bridgestone's on my Honda. They got hard and noisy really quickly, and then cupped badly. I used to think it was my alignment but my buddy at the Toyota dealer said he sees it all the time on standard passenger cars. They were also heavy.
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yikes! Duty calls sometimes. If you're cleaning off the spring perch, might I suggest the flapper sanding wheels for grinders. They won't dig in like a normal grinding wheel can and they make short work of remnants. I used the grinding wheel to cut the perch. I could see where I started to break through the steel and moved around the tube. Once the perch steel is sufficiently thin, I knocked it loose with a ball peen dead blow (my BFH) Some people also use the remnants (ring) of the spring perch to support the threaded sleeve.
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I did just that with my exhaust when I made my tip. I centered it visually and tacked it straight to the muffler. Honestly once it's welded you won't need to worry about a snug fit. Once there's a weld bead around the pipe, it won't be moving anywhere. Or another option, cut the outlet off the muffler and weld the new tip on. You could leave a 1/4 inch to help center the resonated tip. With the original outlet cut short enough, you'll never see it even if it's not totally perfect. If you really worried about a shim, you can get some appropriate diameter steel round stock. Cut 2 to 4 short lengths (or bend 1 longer length around the outlet) and use them to shim/center the new tip. oh, I'm going to guess the resonated tip is chrome, mask that thing with masking tape and wrap it in leather or some kind of weld splatter blocker. Weld splatter will stick to the chrome and ruin the finish
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Are you doing the sectioning and cutting off the perches or just using the sleeves on the stock perches?
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I'm also familiar with this car. Seller is a great guy and put a lot of work into this car. Spitz17 is right, the paint is a 10 footer but not too bad. It just depends how picky you are It looks great with the diamond racing wheels, haven't seen those yet! Oh, and if anyone is wondering, the Fujitsubo exhaust sounds amazing