70 Cam Guy

I have read that page numerous times in preparation for my own eventual need for it. I don't blame you for not wanting to touch the spindle pins. Just today I had to use the torch at my friend's shop and their press to get some pins out. Last Saturday was the day I sawzall'ed the control arms free. The pins were totally locked in. My buddy got lucky with his 72, they slid right out

Welcome! I'm just across the bridge and a little further through a tunnel

I've read this a few times, maybe it will help you with the bearings. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

Welcome! Looks like a real project but sounds like you're well on your way I have heard good things about the Rosetta Stone software but I think it's somewhat pricey. Maybe your company will cover it? http://www.rosettastone.com/ It looks like they have Spain Spanish and Latin America Spanish. My coworker's girls are using it to improve their Spanish (he is from Venezuela)

Great work, thanks Arne! I can't wait to see them and make my friends jealous

Good on them for standing by their product! That's really a great thing to see in companies these days. The RetroSound deck is definitely on the nice-to-have list now. There's only a few things in line in front of it at the moment

No track, just a nice, windy road out of Vacaville or Fairfield to the Lake. A nice stretch of the road runs alongside the lake. I don't think it's as intense as the Dragon's Tail I'm impressed you've heard of the Dragon's Tail and Deals Gap!

Sorry, Berryessa, as in Lake Berryessa. It's north of Napa. From my direction, it's popular to take Suisun Valley Rd out of Cordelia/Fairfield and hit hwy 121. It also looks like (on Google maps) that you can take 128 out of Winters

Welcome! I've done Berryessa to Middletown on my motorcycle. Love the scenery up there!

That's Dave! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/member.php?u=4921 He makes the headlight harness and parking light harness for MSA among other things.

Just for the sake of comparison, my wheels are also 14x6 and I am running 205/60R14. They are Federal Formoza's, pretty darn cheap but I was told they are made by Sumitomo (my friend ordered them for me where he works). They are shorter than stock and I can fit my entire hand between the top of the front tire and fender. I am working on coilovers so I will drop the height down. They are no 40 series tires but they did ok when I drove it around Thunderhill. Good enough to have some fun! More are found in my user gallery in higher res http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=18904&cat=500 <img src="http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_0299_resized.jpg" /> <img src="http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_0296_resized.jpg" /> <img src="http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_0300_resized.jpg" /> <img src="http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_0307_resized.jpg" />

It made me chuckle, and remember some awful mirrors I had on my motorcycle for a day. Bad case of CSS, I was staring at my elbows :stupid:

Great links! The Summit page doesn't quite agree with racetep on max pressure. Are you running a return line with that pump? Is it really only 4 psi?

Your average binder paper or printer paper is usually 3 to 5 thou (.003-.005"). Suffice it to say, that's thin stuff

Are you talking about the hose from the block to the balance tube, or the hose from the valve cover to air cleaner? I kept the original hose for the block to balance tube connection. The person I bought the air cleaner from on ebay threw in his old hose for the valve cover to air cleaner. It looks like nothing more than 1/2" oil resistant hose (maybe a slightly larger size ID, I've never measured)

Dave, I like that! Thanks, I have never seen that link before

Seems like everything I have done has made an incremental improvement to the drivability and seat-of-the-pants performance to this point. My car sat in a garage for nearly 15 years before I bought it so I installed some Craigslist 4-screw SU's with throttle shafts in good shape and did a general tune-up. I junked the rusty original exhaust for a down-pipe back exhaust. A little improvement over original and the sound was so nice The next improvement really woke up the car above 4500 rpm. I ditched the points dizzy for a ZX e12-80 distributor with a fresh cap/rotor. Bypass the resistor and suddenly the car needs less choke to start cold and it runs much smoother. The upper rev range really smoothed out. The last major change, I wish I could have dyno'ed a before and after. I took the exhaust another step and installed a Clifford header and N36 intake (another CL score). The N36 is different internally from the N33, I have both and was curious. Coolant is also no longer routed behind the head or through the intake manifold. It really wants to rev now, and the header made the single flowmaster silly loud on its own (added a glass pack in the middle). This one actually took a little time to readjust driving the car. Other mods are brewing but I'm waiting on my friend to build his engine before the parts are available. I also installed a low pressure electric fuel pump in the rear, and a ZX alternator with Dave's adaptor plug. Both are very much worth it I like the idea of EDIS, as well as Electromotive's Direct Fire Ignition for the sheer tuning ability (basically a tunable wasted spark system).

Dave, that looks great! Hey, you might even be able to tell your insurance you have a 3rd brake light too!

I am thinking he was keeping it PG... Can't See Sh...:tapemouth I agree with the rest as well, I like the classic chrome mirror. The Californian mirrors probably look better in person like a lot of things

2 mil is old school machinist talk where I used to work. They always meant 2 thou (.002")

Thanks Arne! I am soaking in all the helpful hints for these. I think they're going to look awesome and everyone is going to wonder how we kept them in such great condition over the years

Welcome! Do you have a Z? possibly some generation of Toyota FJ? I love the old FJ40's

I like how that turned out. The pictures on the Motorsport website make it look much more modern than it looks in the installed pictures. That is definitely going on my 'nice-to-have' list. Thanks for sharing! You might be able to scrape the edges of that angle with a razor blade to create a uniform chamfer to blend in the chunks (with the bad edge scraping, not digging in cutting). A very fine, single cut file may work to get that as well. It may also just be the flash accenting everything, hard to tell.

My friend runs Performance Options in Oakland near the West Oakland Bart station. They are into all things old school and high performance. I was working on my car there the day met oifss2 with another member here, John. Actually they are still working on wiring for a customer's 280 with an RB25det swap. Another project in there now is an AE86 getting an SR swap. Pretty cool place. http://performanceoptions.net/ http://thunderdrift.com/?p=227 If 1stGenCelica didn't require reg to view threads I would link to their Friday east bay meet at the end of this month. One of the mods there has a bunch of 510 buddies too they are all into Japanese old school

I would not go with a 65 aspect ratio, that makes the overall height of the tire taller than stock. Play with this a little bit and it will give you an idea of the differences between sizes http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html My 205/60/14 tires are actually shorter than the factory 195/70 but I like the look of the sidewall (it does affect my speedometer). Running a 205/60/15 would put you at the same diameter as your 195/17R14's. I have talked to people that had rubbing issues with 225 width tires and others that had no trouble. A 205 or 215 would probably be safe and look good on the 7" wide wheel.