70 Cam Guy

VHT high temp header paint is great stuff. I agree with Beandip, bead blast or wire brush it, degrease it, and use the high temp paint. The stuff I bought was self-priming and I put at least 3 coats on my header with a single can. There are instructions on the can how to cure the paint on the car if you don't have access to an oven (you don't care about)

Welcome! I also find most information I need here. If it's not here, there are usually links to be found here that lead me to the right information

I also did my header and N36 at the same time. I suppose the right thing to do to test would be a dyno comparison with only the intakes changed. I would have liked to do that but that's a lot of time that I don't have. What would really mess us up is if the benefits are more in the intangibles like drivability or throttle response :stupid: I'm sure we've read the same old threads about this debate. It was pure coincidence that my round top SU's came mounted to an N36 intake. I cleaned it all up off the car. I pulled off all the original parts, stuffed them in a box, and installed the clean intake.

I fixed my header leak, I'll do my best to get before and after recordings. I bought a Summit glass pack with a 12" body, 18" overall length. It's nothing fancy, we'll see how it goes http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-630805/

I should have taken a picture of mine. The msa gaskets I used on my car were not a simple paper gasket, more like a sandwhich of paper and foil in the middle. I doubled them up, gluing them together with copper RTV, then glued the header to the gasket. Got everything mounted, then snug, then I torqued in stages. I let the rtv dry a good half hour before doing the last torquing. My header leak is fixed, with the header simply resting on the studs, the 2nd primary was too low to seal so with a little tweaking of that primary and keeping the header lifted, everything sealed. Keep in mind this is a who-knows-how-old Clifford header and one of the previous owners cut the flange between the primaries. Arne, great link!

There are always a lot of flakes on Craigslist. I heard it all selling my guitar stuff.... i'm getting paid in a week i'll call you... I'll call you tomorrow... I'll meet you at such and such time.... Will you take 5% of what you're asking for it.... Will you hold it for me... Someone will come around eventually that isn't a flake. The law of CL as harsh as it is... first come, first serve, cash talks.

Don't the 280's have a fuel pressure regulator? If you have a new fuel pump and your fuel pressure is still low, that might be something to check

I have both an N33 and N36. The internal diameters measured essentially the same with my calipers but the internal webbing is shaped differently. I could reach inside the ports and feel that the newer intake webs were shorter and more rounded. The N33 webs felt taller and sharper. I'm sure it contributes to air/fuel velocity and turbulence in some way... but I don't know how exactly. As far as which is better, it's impossible for me to give you a conclusive answer. I switched from my N33 equipped '73 for the N36 when I did my header. At the same time, I removed the coolant lines from the intake, and used a non-egr balance tube. All those things combined meant the engine revs much faster and more freely than before. There's a lot of discussion about peak power gains but I know my throttle response is better and the butt dyno tells me I gained something somewhere.

Got my parking permit today

Hi Jon, have you had bad experience with the MSA intake/exhaust gasket? If I understand you, you're referring to a paper style like you might see from Mr Gasket just as a quick side note, I finally bought my Energy poly bushings so everything is in place to do the coil overs... just need time. I'll send you a picture when I do finally install everything. As far as the u-joint and socket, I agree. I believe it was the 2nd or 3rd cylinder that has a stud that is impossible to reach with a normal socket. It was even a pain with a shallow universal. Getting the stock manifold unstuck from the head took some convincing with a pry bar. Just take your time.

If the manifold is already off, you've already been through the toughest IMO. The exhaust bolts, and intake/exhaust studs are the main things I was worried about. I let the penetrating oil soak in a while before I tried cracking anything loose. I bought the stud kit from MSA. Studs for the intake manifold made installation much easier. My '73 had coolant through the manifold so I used a 1/2" pipe plug in the thermostat housing and a plug on the T before the cooling line is routed behind the head (passenger side) I don't know if this made a difference but I didn't tighten the balance tube completely when I re installed the manifold. My thinking was that the manifolds would install flat against the head

Cool idea, I've wondered about supercharging, everyone adds turbos (with good reason)

I definitely agree. If you've got premix (the green/brown mayonnaise), I would pull the head and have machine shop inspect it and pressure test if it's not toast. Incidently, there always seems to be one or two heads appearing on Cragislist. Buyer beware if you're not absolutely sure what to keep an eye on, or pay to have it pressure tested/inspected by a pro. I have seen heads on CL for 100-300 locally

Hey nice catch on the fuel pressure! That can definitely cause the lean condition, especially at higher rpm

I have read the most advance you want to run is 38° fully advanced. 35 degrees is a nice start for your total advance. I'm not sure where that will put you for initial advance. It is best to use a good timing advance light. You may have to play with it a bit. If it's pinging then you'll want to back off the advance. Some people will advance until it pings and then back off a degree or two.

Like Kenny said, sweet smelling, white smoke is a tell tale sign of a blown head gasket. If you are student at UTI, see if you can borrow their cooling system pressure tester. It may not work too well if you have a crack in the thermostat housing. When I blew the head gaskets in my old Camaro, I pulled all the plugs and cranked the engine. Water shot out a couple of the spark plug holes... that's another way if it's really a bad leak. Just don't stand in the line of fire when you crank it. You can also go to a NAPA or other auto parts store and get a block check kit. These check for hydrocarbons in the coolant and can help diagnose a head gasket Engines with aluminum heads are vulnerable to blown head gaskets if the engine overheats. Very common to see that after an overheat.

Did you have the work done to fix the popping problem or did this surface after the shop did the work? Did they actually adjust the timing or just check it? Intake pops after you goose throttle do usually mean lean with carbs. I'm sure it can mean the same with your car If you just had the plug wires replaced, start with the easiest and make sure your plug wires are installed correctly

When I did the coolant in mine, I filled the radiator as much as I could with 50/50. Turn your heater controls to full hot to allow flow through the heater core. I started the engine and let it run. As the level dropped I continued to top off the radiator. When the engine hit operating temps and I was satisfied the level stabilized I put the cap back on first and shut off the engine.

Thanks guys, much appreciated. The exhaust after the connection to the header is 2.5". I figured that is where everyone installs a glass pack... seems like a perfect spot. Plus, being a nice straight section, it should be easy enough to weld in a glass pack Chris, I remember watching your youtube video on your dual exhaust build and I really like the design. It also sounds great!

I have read the SM needles run on the rich side if you don't have a good sized cam but there's debate about that (like anything on the net). If the plugs read good, I'd run with that for now. Your coolant temps are good, run it for a bit and see how things look in a couple weeks. If you can get your hands on a wideband or a simple A/F gauge, that will be the biggest help I found this last night... looks pretty good http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

I'll do my best but it's going to take some time. I've got a header leak to fix before I can really give you a representative recording. I have to sort out the exhaust before Oct 2 because that's when I'm driving to JSSC with my friends... 400 miles in the Datsun to Irvine! As is, I really like the sound at idle, pretty mean. If you don't like flowmasters on muscle cars, I'm not sure it will change your mind. I'll be pretty happy if I can just turn the volume down for driving.

To follow up, does the 4" outside diameter muffler fit under the car? If the 4" dia bullet muffler doesn't fit or sacrifices too much ground clearance, that makes the decision pretty easy..