70 Cam Guy

Ouch, et40, or +40 offset... Arne is right you'll need either a 30 or 35mm spacer. It will bolt on the existing studs and have another set of stud the wheels will bolt to. I"m not sure where to find a spacer larger than 30mm. You might need to do some searching http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Kics_Wheel_Spacer You may also be better off getting a wheel that fits better. The cost of the spacers alone are basically another set of wheels.

My buddy John has the 205/55/16 on his Konig's and I think they look great. If you are not lowering that far, a 55 series will look better IMO. My car is really low and I went with the 205/50 because I wasn't worried about the tire gap or speedo. There are so many options for the 205/55/16 as well, it's the factory tire for many modern vehicles (including my newer Civic coupe).

Looking good! The wheels do look a little modern on the Z but they still work. If you're not sure, I say keep those for track work and get whatever you like for street duty. As you know, they are extremely light and it actually looks like you are running them without a spacer, or not much spacer. R compound goes away quick on the street, extra wheels would keep the race tires fresh.

To run the ITB's, you'll need to run engine management for the fuel injection. To get the most out of it, programmable spark would be ideal in my opinion. Gains obviously depend on other mods and the 'complete package' like head work, compression, cam, etc. I imagine a good tune with these ITB's will net at least as much power as converting to Mikuni's or Weber DCOE's.

Agreed, those are always the first things I check for at the Pick n Pulls

Anecdotal-y speaking, I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil (non-synthetic). The engine runs smooth and quiet. There was a noticeable change in the valve train noise and the previous oil had only been in the engine for 3 months. It may just be marketing hype but the ZDDP provides additional wear protection http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6 http://www.jegs.com/i/Valvoline-Racing/949/VV205/10002/-1?parentProductId=761749 In my Honda I'll run Mobile 1. Simply switching to Mobile 1 in that car gained me 3 mpg on average. I only use synthetic in that car, it does help keep the carbon buildup down in the EGR system and intake. The gas mileage increase was enough for me to keep using it, and the fact that Walmart has it in 5 quart jugs for 22.50 to 24.50

I believe he is riding on Tokico Illumina shocks and springs. I am afraid to misquote but I think his lower spring perch was the issue. That said, I had enough clearance for the short amount of time I was running on the stock springs and struts I love the look of the 8" wide wheel on Z's. The right wheel changes the whole look of the car. Ideally a tire shop would test fit a couple different tire sizes for you to check clearance. All of our Z's seem to vary just a little when it comes to tire/wheel fit

I figure I'd post some pics of my buddy's car since it has been almost a year since I last mentioned it. He pretty much went all out with T3 suspension. I am definitely considering the control arms and tension rods in my next round of suspension mods. Engine and brakes will likely come before that though. Anyway... alignment at my friend's shop, the Z owner (another friend) wanted the car low. He is running HTS shocks with the T3 suspension setup DSC_0054 by AYates Photos, on Flickr DSC_0083 by AYates Photos, on Flickr DSC_0084 by AYates Photos, on Flickr DSC_0088 by AYates Photos, on Flickr

Manteca does have the Bass Pro Shop My first impression was also Manteca when reading the scan

$650 shipped? I think that's a good price on the RBR's. I paid a little less than that with local pickup. I would have ordered mine from 18racing if the local wheel shop in Oakland didn't hook me up. Only you can decide if the wait is worth it. If that is the wheel and color you ultimately want, then it's worth the wait. It's hard to say if other places will have them in stock because many keep very few in stock and order from Rota when needed.

I have the RBR in 16x8 +4. I would be very careful running a 225/50. Spitz17 already had problems with inner clearance running that size in a Falken RT615. I believe he now has a 215/50. I am running a 205/50/16 General Exclaim UHP. Great tire and only rub a touch in the rear (outer) on un-touched fenders and really low ride height.

It looks like Z car customs is selling the tubes for the Megan coilovers. It will require welding for the camber plates and threaded sleeve http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/Suspension__Steering_

You need to be careful of the front valence. If I recall, that is where people have trouble with the wider wheels. It rubs when the steering wheel is turned

The front has more room for outer clearance. Right now this is natural camber from the drop. I believe the rear is -2.2 and front is less... maybe -1.5 to -1.7? I can't find my printout and can't remember the camber now. My toe is set to zero. The picture of my car in front of the grafiti at my friend's shop was before the suspension. That was stock springs

What have become known as the 'group buy RBRs' were originally made for the HybridZ group buy. They have 4.5" backspace so they fit with the original struts. 4.5" backspace is what I would consider the safe rule of thumb when you factor in inner tire clearance. Just a word of caution on hybridZ, you will want to rummage around and search. You will find more than you can imagine on that site in the search. I think I searched simply, "17x9"

If you use a spacer, don't go too thick on the original studs, you won't have any threads left for the lug nut. I can tell you that a 10mm spacer is too thick for the original studs. I agree though that proper fitting wheels are ideal. They just might not be in the budget right away

I'd guess the flares will have you covered. Here's a thread with a couple pictures how the group buy Rota's look before flares. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/91550-anyone-tried-17x95-offset-19-with-flares-without-cutting-the-fenders You can use that wheel offset calculator to see how they'll compare to the RBR wheels. I believe they are 17x9 -13 and 17x9.5 -19

Chris, I also like the doo-doo brown paint so I don't hijack this thread too much, here's the link to my old build thread that was recently bumped to the top again in the suspension forum http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39590

Still very happy with the Illumina's and having the adjustability for my last track day was great. Dial it up for aggressive driving and back it off for the ride home. I definitely want sway bars, there is just enough body roll that I'd like to reduce it. The 225 lb rate in the front and 200 in the rear has worked quite well. It is firm but nothing I can't deal with. With the exception of some pot holes around here, it still feels fairly refined. When I actually install the stereo, I'll probably drive it even more. I need tunes for the morning commute.

I was waving people by in the straights but doing decently enough in the corners. The torque was nice in the L24 out of the corners but most of the cars caught up when the straights grew longer. Nobody else in my run group showed up with stock horsepower. I also can't wait to go again. To be able to hit it full-on and not worry about pedestrians, dog-walkers, bicyclists, etc, is so nice. I ordered a large print from the track photographer and put it up in the office. The coworkers were all asking if it was me

Thanks! They are the Rota RBR in 16x8 +4. My fenders are not rolled or anything. Here's my suspension build thread with more specific info on my wheels and tires http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39590 -10 or -19 with a 9" width wheel would really be poking out of the fender without flares. I believe the negative offset will give you the backspacing and clearance away from the stock strut but you will be poking quite a bit on stock fenders.

Track days are a huge amount of fun. I've done 2 now, one at Thunderhill and one more recently at Buttonwillow raceway. I did Thunderhill before my suspension and wheels, and Buttonwillow was my first opportunity to drive with my current setup. I really appreciate the suspension work since I was able to drive it stock around Thunderhill. I have to agree the seats can make a huge difference and even some decent, non-racing seats can make a significant change for the better. I was pleasantly surprised at how tight I could get the factory belts to keep me in. I have Porsche bucket seats in my car, which are supportive and hold me well. In addition, you can really stomp on the dead pedal when you're not clutching to help with stability. Go out for the fun of it, drive at your own pace, and the track days will continue to be a ton of fun. I lost count of how many people I was pointing by but I didn't care, it was too fun. I also watched the really fast guys, and their lines, which made me instantly faster

Agreed. If you are concerned about keeping your car original, do what I did and get a set of strut housings from the pick-n-pull to section and use on your car. When all was said and done, I have my original 4 struts that I could potentially bolt back onto my car. You get to the point of no return when you cut the strut towers for certain camber plates. My car is on sectioned struts with Illumina's and 225 fr/200 rr coil springs. I love it, and at Buttonwillow it was great fun

I'll give John a plug. $7 not much when you're looking at $400. My buddy bought his HTS shocks from Beta Motorsports, top notch service and I think he was even wearing the shirt they sent. I was jealous On top of that, they are suspension guru's if you are looking for advice to reach your goal or need help

He is parting it out after all that work!!?? wow...