70 Cam Guy

You guys should visit the JNC forum a little more The show was a lot of fun and afterward my friends and I enjoyed some fried chicken and waffles in Long Beach at Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles. Here are my pictures, slightly more random due to lack of sleep mostly... I think triple carbs were on my mind http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/JCCS%202009/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/05/events-jccs-2009-part-one-kyuusha-kulture/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/07/events-jccs-2009-part-two-wagons-ho/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/08/events-jccs-2009-part-three-the-exotics/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/09/events-jccs-2009-part-four-rolling-stock/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/10/events-jccs-2009-part-five-the-mod-squad/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/13/events-jccs-part-six-truck-yeah-and-some-race-cars/ http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/blog/2009/10/14/events-jccs-part-seven-so-hard-to-say-goodbye/

Nice, did you machine the levers or were those bought? Do they use a set screw? Does it thread into the rod or is there a clamp I didn't notice? I like the heim style rod ends, they are solid and precise.

As long as the triple manifolds are forward-to-rear, it doesn't surprise me they flex in the middle without a middle support. I've been excited about my 240Z for a while now and happy with the improvements I've made. I thought that would subside after a little while but it still feels like the honeymoon of a cool new project. I love it I think the 5-speed and R200 are an "eventual" thing but it hasn't been anything I've thought about real seriously yet. I've always liked the idea of an LSD though. It's great to get some practical advice and opinions on this stuff. You know I'd completely forgotten about the FAQ section on Hybrid Z. Before my car was even running properly, I read a large amount of the strut thread and the strut sectioning thread. Also have read the suspension mods faq, and some of the adjustable LCA thread. That was probably about the same I asked you the coilover questions. I've even spent a week of lunches at work reading the Weber jets thread to learn more about the Webers. I started reading the R200 thread months ago but stopped after thinking "I'll never do this swap"... :stupid: Thanks again everyone for your input on this thread, it's been a great eye opener and hopefully it will help others that are curious about life after SU's.

I didn't realize the wider ratio from the 77-78 would be so pronounced. I was hoping to avoid swapping transmissions because the car is still pretty low mileage but it sounds like another thing to keep an eye out for. The R200 swap was another thing I haven't really tried to wrap my brain around besides needing the matching mustache bar. If you mean the rotating linkage bar, there looks to be a support rod end at each point on the Cannon manifold where a rod & lever connect to the carb (from the chrome bar). I don't know the proper names for some of these carb linkages. Maybe that is something he added? I haven't actually looked at my Cannon in a while. The pictures he sent look first rate, almost made me throw everything on my card right there.... have to curb my impulsive side for the moment :stupid:

Wow, I wasn't expecting this many responses! It gives me a fresh perspective and some more to think about I actually have the SU's tuned in really well in my opinion. I have a ZX distributor and header/exhaust already. Before calling for a tow on my way to JCCS (voltage regulator went kaput) I was getting 25 mpg mostly highway. The car is definitely a lot of fun to drive and either way I want to get a Fidanza flywheel because I love a quick revving NA engine. Adding a moderate street cam has always been on my mind as well. I like the idea of ITB fuel injection but I just don't realistically have the resources to support that idea. My friend's shop has a Dynapack 3000 (hub-mounted dyno). Tuning for max power would probably go fairly quickly but tuning for drivability takes a fair amount of time. Aside from that, I have a seemingly irrational desire keep it old school. Being around what is probably an abnormal amount of classic Japanese cars with Mikuni's and Weber's, I love the look, I love the sound, and as shallow as it may sound, you can't beat the wow factor of all those carb's. I've certainly had some biased influences http://performanceoptions.net/Gallery.html I assume the standard linkages from Wolf Creek are quality. The images Todd sent me look like very good quality actually. I do appreciate all the advice here as well. When little issues work together, you wind up with a big difficult-to-diagnose problem (as I experienced early on with a bum set of SU's). I will definitely also need a solution for the heat either homemade or other. Thanks Jon, the 44's have actually been what I've been leaning towards. I still have my 4 speed so the gearing doesn't seem too tall to me. Is that me hearing what I want to hear?

As far as I know, the balance tubes interchange with all the manifolds. I put an earlier, non-egr balance tube on my N36 intake manifold. I believe the N36 came on the 260's. Hope this helps

I just had a nice email conversation with Todd @ Wolf Creek Racing about a Mikuni PHH setup. Just want to say his good reputation on these message boards is well deserved. On to my question and curiosity. I have spent the last couple days searching here and hybridZ for threads on the Mikuni's. They run the gambit but I failed to notice anyone talking about how our cars are to drive with a set of triple sidedrafts. I've seen threads about bogs and needing help but not many come back with a resolution and review. When things are tuned and in good working order, what are these things like to drive? Say I want to to drive to work a couple days in mixed traffic. Will I be pulling my hair out in frustration for some reason that is car related? I am pretty aware that just stomping on the gas could (nearly) stall the engine. Do you triple owners have any major gripes? I would consider throttle response with my SU's to be very good, I hear throttle response is even better with triples? I have driven my friend's race Mango (Corolla) and it runs like a top (and it's a monster) with the Weber 45's. No bogs, idles forever without issue, and pulls like no tomorrow. Other guys that frequent his shop drive their 18-RG and 2TG Corrola's/Celica's all the time with the Mikuni's. They don't complain but they are die hard old skool Japanese car fans. Are they just thick skinned and tolerant? Cheers

I don't know how precise it is, but it does sound like it's easier to see than the dust The rock crawler guys can really get into it. I remember reading one guy got different pressure settings for each of his 37" MTR's. Supposedly he daily drove on them and they wore evenly. He wrote the pressures down on a paper and put it in his glove box. I would too probably if I were paying the 270 ea for the tires :stupid: my 35s were under 200 ea, a little more manageable

I have Grid's on my Civic coupe, though in a 16" variety. I didn't change the size on my car and it was a vast improvement in ride quality. Road noise was significantly reduced compared to the OEM Turanza's. Gas mileage went down a couple mpg, likely due to a stickier compound. I have been very happy with the cornering performance. With about 20K miles they are getting a little noisy. It has been 10k miles since my last rotation so it is definitely due. My gripe is they are directional and I can't get a true rotation, just front to back, back to front I run mine at 32 psi, that is the stock pressure for the 07 coupe. With the weight of the Datsun, I wouldn't really run more than 32 psi. A trick some of the wheelers do with their tires is to use a chalk line across the tread. They're trying to get as even tread wear as possible with a 35+" tall tire on the trucks. Might not be pronounced enough on our cars but I don't know. They'll play with the pressures until they get an even scrub. You can try that if you're really bored

Welcome! By C210, you mean a Skyline? I read sunny coast and was thinking California but with a Soarer and a C210, that seems unlikely. Are you in Australia? Any pics of the cars? I always liked the Soarers, we never got the early ones in the US (later ones were Lexus SC's), they are like a cool looking 2-door version of my old Cressida.

Thanks! My car has 14x6 Watanabe's with 205/60R14. One of my friends bought them for his '71 Celica but he used a different set of wheels. He says they are rare in this size. I don't know if that is true but I know I like them! I am going for old school cool look with my car I like the wheels on that orange 240, they fit well

The car is really clean, very clean lines. The wheels look great on it. Welcome! Your English is fine, and most people here are patient when you have trouble. Plus, after a couple weeks I imagine it'll only improve

Great explanation. When I was learning to drive, we have an old Willy's CJ-2A with manual steering. I learned pretty quickly to keep my thumbs out of the steering wheel I have the Energy bushing kit. This thread has been great motivation for me to get on the coupler and rack bushings.

I actually saw at least 1 510 at the show with a set of HRE's. I chuckled to myself, even though the car was in good condition, the wheels were probably still worth more I spent some time looking at your website. You've done a lot of work to your car under all that nice paint and CF. I really like those gauges and dual exhaust

I emailed the account on your website from my gmail account. The pic sizes are enormous! Nearly 3 megs each Let me know if they don't come through. HRE? :stupid: HRE's are awesome but Wow! they make a lot of pricey wheels seem like bargains. A guy that brought his Corvette in to a shop I worked during college told us he spend almost 10 grand on his hre's

In your case I would hope the shop would warranty their work if they built the engine (if it's needed)

I didn't know you were on this forum! I got a couple pictures of your car from JCCS. It's the first I've seen with the Sportmax wheels from MSA. I was looking at those and the Netz at MSA, and Wats if I really want to spend some $$$ http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/JCCS%202009/?action=view&current=IMG_0346.jpg http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/JCCS%202009/?action=view&current=IMG_0371.jpg They aren't spectacular but if you'd like the full size shots, I'd be happy to send them. Anyone know the wheels on the car in the original post?

I'd have to agree with this. The u-joints are available for the 76. I don't have personal experience with the half shafts but I don't know why you couldn't replace the joints.

I just checked NAPA online and from production date 9/76 on, it appears the '76 has the same part number as the 77-78. The note for ATM 9407 says "From 9/76" Your mechanic should be able to compare the parts visually if he can get one from his parts supplier. Afraid I don't know what happened in 9/76, just going on the parts catalog here. If you check MSA, it groups 76 with 73-76. My 73 has the parking mechanism integrated with the wheel cylinder, the 77-78 does not look like this is the case

Also make sure your chokes are not sticking. If a nozzle gets stuck down this will cause some funny running. It won't idle very well, likely run very rich with black smoke, and generally kill the drivability. Did you remove the carb completely to replace the fuel line? They may be out of balance now if you did. I bought the Synchrometer from Motorsport Auto (MSA). It's an STI unit that's made in Germany. It's a very good unit. The carbs must be balanced at idle, and above idle (where the linkage takes over). I did a lot of reading here to improve my understanding of the SU's. By all accounts, the Ztherapy DVD is easily worth the 20 bucks.

I agree, could be rust on the drum or the rotors. My car made a similar noise, like a brake sensor rubbing the rotor without the squeal. After a few drives, the noise has gone away. Still, if you've never removed the drums, it might be a good idea to inspect your brake shoes and hardware.

There's nothing wrong with wanting the right parts. I always check my parts before I start the job (when possible). Match them up, make sure they look the same, etc. I don't see not wanting to waste time as being selfish. We all (well, most of us) have a limited amount of time on the weekend to work on our rides. We want that to go as efficiently and successfully as possible Afraid I've never looked for a stock, OE style, radiator before so I'm sure about their availability. The Aluminum units are very nice

Thanks, E for the input. I have actually never used the products I mentioned on my Z except for the wd40. The sap remover I tried on my friend's 91 Jeep Wrangler. The Jeep is white, and the blue towel soon turned white. The sap was still on the hood :tapemouth My other friends were removing pinstriping from their cars and the Goof off and Goo Gone were removing the black and red paint from their cars. We found the 3M wheels for adhesive and pinstriping and made good use of those. I'm not well versed on paint past a basic understanding of a single stage paint job and a base/clear style paint job. Here is CA, I understand everything is going water based

Just speaking from my own experience, MSA gives Classic Zcar Club members (this forum) discounts if you order by phone. They need your member number but I never had a problem. In fact, I have had great service from them both in email and over the phone. There is a thread in General Discussion (below the Help forum) about the discount

Thanks Ron! I already have thoughts of next year on my mind as well as the Z car nationals for Motorsport I got my pictures up! a little bit of everything, I think we were all half delirious from the lack of sleep http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/JCCS%202009/