70 Cam Guy

Sounds great! This will be the first really long drive in my Datsun and I am confident it will make it with little fanfare. Do people usually take a compliment of car wash supplies to scrape the bugs off the car or is that not usually a big deal? I've never had a car in a show before so I'm not sure of the normal practice.

That's a great idea if you don't want to lift up the center console

Welcome! It's too bad we never got Patrol's over here. They seem like they're great trail rigs. I have an 87 Toyota pickup (hilux?) that I'm in the process of doing the solid axle conversion. Just need gears and axles now. My dad has a 47 Willy's CJ-2A, it's a great old Jeep. I test drove the 08 Low Rider... I love that 96 inch motor with the 6-speed. I am definitely picking one up when the funds allow.... whenever that may be

I had ST springs and bushings on my old Camaro, they were great, that thing was set up nice for the corners.

Cool! Unexpected local! Toyotafest was actually at the Queen Mary in Long Beach. We hauled the car down there and spent a couple nights down there. I couldn't believe how BIG the Port of Long Beach is.... I have never seen anything like that. I have only been to Buttonwillow once with them for a Grip & slip track day. That looks like a fun track! My friend took me around in his set up Integra, and one of the other guys from that shop gave me a fun drift ride. SR20 in his AE86 hatch I can't wait for JCCS! My poly bushing set arrived today

It just occured to me to look where Oceanside was... here I was thinking it was on the other side of the bay from me. Thank goodness for Google maps :stupid: All those tracks are probably a really long haul for you

Nothing a good torque wrench and synchro meter can't fix If you took it apart, you can get it back together. Just be glad there's like 2 vacuum lines The factory manual is always a good resource in times like this

I like those. Who is the manufacturer? I love my retro cool 14" Wats but I think anything I get as an alternate wheel is going to something over-the-top like a modular Compomotive or CCW in 15"-17"

That car has raced in Solo2 I believe and we've all driven it in AutoX (XP?, novice XP for me). He's driven it at Sears Point, Thunderhill, Laguna, Buttonwillow, maybe more? His old man repaired all the body work and painted it before we went to Toyotafest. It was a metallic blue before. The flares are from a 930 Porsche I believe and the wheels are Compomotive 3 piece. It really sounds mean with the 2TC (maybe 3TC?), Weber's, and gear drive Here's an Altamont video... This was the Treasure Island meet I missed ... Looks like more shots of their cars towards the end. At the very end, the car is parked in front of the finished graffiti mural I cannot wait for October. I ordered my urethane bushings so I can do the suspension

Excellent!! That is so much cleaner! I don't know that I've ever seen really good close-up images of the Ztherapy carbs. Those look like jewels with the shiny linkage! They definitely look like they're worth every penny

Here's a shot of it next to their shop before we left for TORC Toyotafest a couple months ago. It's a pretty hot engine set up but it loves to be driven hard, it's always ready for more With that paint, it glows in the day time

I just registered as well as my friends. He is towing his '74 Mango (Corolla) race car and I will be driving my car. I just replaced the stock distributor with a ZX dizzy and it's running really good I was planning my coilovers but I might wait now. 400+ miles on 200/225 pound Eibach's might have me crying uncle

agreed, start simple. Does the choke linkage on the carb move freely with the cable disconnected? If it does, remove the choke cable, clean it, lube with some light grease, and re-install. I used some light, white grease (it doesn't take much) and it made a big difference. The grease in our garage is Lubriplate No 105, and there's a NAPA logo on it. It also works great for tail gate hinges, and striker plates

I am curious what he recommends. In all the searching I've done I never saw anyone mention a solution to this. I was thinking I was going to need earlier cables but I believe they are a different length. The earlier cars had the cables pass through somewhere in the middle of the firewall, closer to the valve cover. I had never seen zip ties like this before, and I can't believe how useful they are. I found them at the local Car Quest for about 3-4 dollars/pack

I'm not sure if these will help you but I snapped some pictures with my iphone today. You can see the hoop I was referring to in the pics with the choke cables. For the carb's I secured the tie around the cable sheath and then threaded the other one through the loop and around the cable on the underside. Like I said, not ideal, but it will get you there while you work on a better solution. I also had to snip off the little clamped end on the cable so it would slide through mount and the rubber accordion as well. Not sure if modifying them like that will bother you. Do not cut the crimp on the cable sheath if you want this to work. When I swap to headers, I'll clean the engine bay a little more, I have an earlier balance tube without the EGR to use with an N36 intake manifold. hope this helps!

Hey thanks for posting the part number! Amazon sells it by the case! Jeg's is listed in my Google search as well but Jeg's site is apparently down for the moment. I will give this a try my next oil change!

Interesting idea! I do know that your stock cables will work fairly easily and cheaply based on what I've already done. I am not a big fan of using zip ties in this fashion but it is a good temporary solution. When I did all the work a month and a half ago, I was expecting to install triple Weber's and didn't feel it was necessary to go too crazy making it work. It has taken longer to get through all the projects I had lined up for the car and it still doesn't have the Weber's. The clutch cables still work just fine and I have driven the car to work, to a couple shows, and they haven't failed me yet. ...my points failed me but that's a separate issue... today I swapped to the ZX dizzy

I agree I didn't see much point in the stainless clutch line but I still bought it. It actually cost less from MSA than a normal clutch line did from the parts house, at my cost. I was ordering my brake lines at the same time so I figured why not? (I was already replacing the clutch master and slave anyway) I believe MSA uses Earl's fittings and lines. Earl's fittings are some of the best IMO, very good quality. It was a nice surprise when they arrived, I had no idea MSA sourced from Earl's.

Since I have a 73, I had the same challenges as you did. You've done a great job cleaning up your engine bay. If you can find the clamps, or fab a clamp/sandwhich of sorts, that would be ideal. I probably could make something but I ended up using simple zip ties with cool loops on the end. Surprising to me, it's actually worked out quite well. I also couldn't use the original stay on the valve cover because it kinked the cable too much. I improvised something else there too. That is one of the few things I don't have any pictures of but I'll take some tomorrow when I can and post back. I also took the opportunity to pull the cable out of the sleeve to clean and coat it with a light, white grease. It did wonders for the cable operation on my car. The cable will pull out from under the choke lever (requires propping up the center console)

Agreed, ...snip... sorry, was thinking the 280's fuel pump was in line, and not in the tank. Had to edit

Interesting about the Zinc, I was not aware of that but I'll definitely look for it in the future. I'll have to also look at STP again. I've always written off oil additives as snake oil. Who knew one might actually serve a purpose

Sorry to hear about your brother! Celebrate his life and dive in to the car. You now know this is what he wanted and though bittersweet as it is, make that car the way you want and drive the s*** out of it, for him As a motorcycle rider, that sounds like one hell of a crash to walk away from!! Further proof, when it isn't your time, it just isn't your time.

I would leave pulling the oil pan to your discretion. I would say it depends on what you see coming out of the drain but I am curious what the others might have to add. I am most curious what the pickup screen looks like currently but if the screen is that bad, you would certainly see a loss in oil pressure.

I am another person against many kinds of flushes. Though I have to say I have used, and like Rislone and Restore for other uses. Sludge can be caused by infrequent oil changes and I agree with Gary and Will regarding their advice. While I use full synthetic in my new Civic, my 240 receives a nice, basic Valvoline oil. It might make your wallet a little sore draining the syntec prematurely, I agree with these guys to use a good, high detergent oil like the Shell. Once clean, you can use your oil of choice. If I recall correctly, full synthetics have very low, or no detergents I have also heard using Chevron Delo can work wonders to clean engines without the use of strange chemicals. Oil for diesels has more detergents than conventional oil. It will work in gasoline engines (my friends run it in their turbo drift car engines- SR20s), but I don't know how long people keep it in for this purpose. Use a quality filter, ie not Fram. I like Napa Gold filters, they are cheap like $5 and are actually Wix premium filters. OEM/Nissan oil filters are always a good option as well. I would consider Bosch to be a quality brand as well:beer:

IIRC, many new Porsche's come with some kind of fix-a-flat (or alternative) to use since they do not come with spares. Might be worth looking in to if you're concerned about your space saver. I figure if it's good enough for a 997 or Cayman, it'll work for a Z car