70 Cam Guy

McKinney Motorsports carries mounts and swap parts for SR and RB. http://mckinneymotorsports.com/ I've never been a big fan of the SR in a Z. From an aesthetics standpoint, they look too small in the long engine bay. If I were going with a hybrid swap, I'd run an RB turbo or LSx. An RB25DET with a straight sounds downright awesome. Personal opinions aside http://www.hybridz.org/ is a great resource and dig through there. There is so much info on performance, tuning, swaps, etc there I hardly even need to post a question

Agreed. If you go with the individual filter elements, either buy air horns, or use the horns from the air cleaner base. Some people cut the stock horns out of the air cleaner base around the mounting holes and use those inside the open element filters. I didn't have the heart to do that to an original base so I stuck with the air cleaner assembly. Some people even sell their old cutout horns, which are usually economical options.

I have this as well. At the time, the stainless braided line was cheaper than the rubber equivalent. IIRC it's an Earls line just like the braided brake lines from Motorsport. Fantastic quality. Regarding the DOT5 question. I don't see a real reason to use that in the system if DOT3 or 4 have been used. You need to flush the whole system more than once because dot 5 is not compatible with dot3/4. I also can't imagine the clutch fluid is exposed to high heat produced from braking.

Hey dude, car is looking good! I can't wait to hear the Mikuni's The Al radiator looks great too!

My car is carb'ed but the diag process is pretty universal. You are certain your alternator is defective? ie, it was tested on a machine. Do you still have an external regulator? Was that replaced at the same time? Have you verified all of your connections? Is your battery fully charged? Are all the fused links and fuses good? I guess the next question, overly simplified, is what has power and what doesn't have power with the key on? If I recall, your fuel pump runs when key is to start. When it's key on, it needs the oil pressure signal and alternator signal for the fuel pump to run. Again, verify connections are correct and secure. If your first diagnosis was correct, I would start here

All this time I thought red names meant moderator... As soon as I get my windshield seal fixed, I'll install the mylar banner too

My friend ordered them for me on his shop account but I was going to get them from Tirerack if he couldn't. All the 16" tire sizes are under $100 and it's ranked pretty highly on Tirerack. It's number 4 in the "ultra high performance summer" tires. I consider that very good considering a Goodyear, Firestone, Michelin, and Bridgestone RE760 round out the top 5 in the category. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=Exclaim+UHP I think 215/50 is a great size, looks like 24.5" height. General's are Made in France The reviews make it seem like it gets respectable mileage, even for a summer tire. I bet most local tire shops can order Generals for you if you want to stay local. You could also use a tirerack installer depending on your access to a tire machine.

I think as long as you keep the tire diameter between 24 and 25" you should be fine with whatever decision. For me, I was deciding between the 205/50 and 215/45 because I wanted closer to the 24" mark. My speedo already reads high with my 205/60/14 so this will actually improve my situation. I went with 205/50 because the tire options are tremendous and the 50 series is a great performance tire. The General Exclaim UHP's I ordered are only 19 pounds, one of the lightest tires I could find and the 205/50 has the rim/lip protection. I also wanted to play it safe on width because I'm not sure where my ride height will be with the coilovers. I didn't want to run into clearance problems with my front valence. 205 will be a light stretch on an 8" wide wheel but not bad at all. The 513's are typically 0 offset on 16x8 so there shouldn't be clearance issues with the strut.

If you're looking for a 14" or 15", you'll find the AE86 corolla and older uses the 4x114.3 (4x4.5) and similar or negative offset. Tons of cool 15" wheels and old school cool JDM wheels can be found on club4AG and probably on HybridZ from other Z people. Pie, from what I understand the ZX has more room for width and your final width decision will determine which tire sizes to look for. You'll want to search more to see what your limits are

You'll see many people running the 002's in 16x8 +0. If I recall, the 002's aren't too heavy either at 16 lbs. I'm not sure about the 513's It depends on who you ask if the tires rub on their front valence. Many people run 225/50/16 tires. I don't mind a little stretch and shorter tire for artificial gearing () so I bought a set of 205/50/16 General Exclaim UHP's. I thought about 215/45 but the 205/50 was what I ended up with. Sorry, no pics yet, I have to finish my coilovers before I install the wheels. Search here and on HybridZ for 16x8 and you'll see pages and pages of results to help with more details

Locally I've seen 275-400 in good condition, depending on the craigslist posting. I would try searching old classifieds on HybridZ for stroker setups to see what people posted them for. Maybe search closed ebay auctions for Maxima diesel crank?

Thanks!!! I thought it was lost forever when geocities went away

Another easy check since I didn't notice mentioned re-reading the thread. How does the cap and rotor look? Are the contacts corroded? Any carbon tracking inside the cap?

It is probably worth your time to verify your fuel pressure as well. Some fresh gas probably won't hurt. I got my car running after sitting for years. There were some major cob webs but with patience and some stubbornness I've got it pretty well sorted. I don't have Weber's yet but I have driven cars with Weber's that run like mad. They are a fantastic carburetor when you get them tuned.

The N36 and N33 don't have significantly different port diameters when I measured mine. The internal casting is most certainly different when you feel inside with your fingers. I installed the N36 at the same time as my header so I can't say for sure if the intake on it's own will make an improvement. The intake manifold and header together made a noticeable difference. I run the N36 intake with a non-egr balance tube. I'm afraid I don't have anything more scientific than that.

I didn't use the ZX plate because there was no way to slot the holes to fit the base and be bolted to the bottom of the distributor. I took the plate off my points dizzy and slotted those holes. I can understand if you don't want to get into that. I also know when we really need something, we'll pay whatever we are comfortable with to get what we want (especially if we know we won't have another opportunity).

Chris, This link helped me in my ZX dizzy swap. He shows a 77 base and a ZX base for comparison. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I didn't get the base with mine so I modified the advance marker plate that bolts to the bottom of the distributor. I had to slot the holes and index the plug wires by one post to get the proper advance range. It wasn't too tough but I would have used a base if one was available http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ <<<< lots of great info here

hm I'm not sure I noticed that part in the directions. I might have though because of time constraints. I would paint at my friend's shop Saturday and spray what I could. Usually I would spray, let set for 10-15 minutes, repeat. I went back again the next weekend and seriously tried to empty the paint can onto my header. The paint looked so thick I finally called it good and never finished the can. The header sat for another month while I waited for my gasket. When I finally got the car back together I did the heat cycles like the can suggests. It sure stinks when it's curing. It smelled for a couple days of driving the car but was fine after not sure if this answers your question

Apply sawzall, heat, cuss words, 10 tons of press, et voila! :stupid: I saved my spindle pin pieces for future use as punches and drifts. But yeah output seals are usually pretty straight forward. Just be sure the seal goes in straight and you should be fine

Hey Z, it's awesome the paint has worked so well. VHT is really quality paint. It is a little more expensive but I believe you do get what you pay for. I wonder if that flat orange isn't the VHT version of "chevy red" engine color, which is actually more of an orange color. My local NAPA auto parts carries a lot of the vht paints and so does the local speed and machine shop

Awesome glad you found a color that will work for you! It's been a couple months now since I repainted my header and re-installed it. I sprayed several coats on the header and barely made it through a single can. The first time I only did 2 light coats and the it started to wear through. I took my time with the on-car curing process this time as well and it seems to be working well. I've been a few shake down drives since putting everything back together and the finish is looking good

It's all good, I thought it was great. Informal and laid back is not necessarily a bad thing

I ordered them back in January and they arrived to my door yesterday. If anyone has been waiting, hopefully they come soon for you! The Fel-Pro gasket has been holding fine but it's nice I have a couple of the Hooker gaskets in case. I'll be building the L28 I have now this summer so I'll need them eventually

Never seen a boso exhaust on a Z before! (boso as in bosozoku) This car is pretty crazy! I can't figure out what it started as, looks like a Cadillac grill but it's so customized

Nice pictures! That red 510 is a local car, super clean. The red Corolla (Peanut) with the shiny ITB's has a 20 Valve 4AG and was built by my friend's shop in Oakland. It has full AE86 suspension, custom street roll bar, Recaro seats, it's pretty cool You can see my Adidas in the engine shot of the 510