70 Cam Guy

You are right, without the paperwork it's hard to know exactly what was done when the head was done. I would probably give them the benefit of the doubt though if a decent machine shop did the work. I can tell you I've been dealing with my header collector bolts loosening the last couple weeks and I can tell when they start getting loose because the pops get way more pronounced/louder on down shift and decel. What I need is some better lock washers :stupid: When my header gasket was leaking bad, that thing would back fire and people would duck! (not really but it would be damn loud) I know Porsche 911's will smoke like a chimney if you overfill them but I am not sure about our cars. My gut feeling is that a 1/4 quart is not significant enough to cause smoking. I am somewhat curious how the compression is and the condition of your PCV valve. When the PCV valve is clogged on some cars, the excess crankcase pressure can cause some different things like oil seal seepage and maybe smoking. This may apply more to newer cars though

Wow nice! Glad the proceeds will help the site!

A bluish-gray smoke is usually oil smoke. There are indicators of where to start depending on when it smokes. smoke on cold start but dissipates: indicative of worn valve seals. oil settles around the valve seals and seeps past the seal. It burns at first start and is usually fine after smoke on accel or under load: this points to blow-by, bad oil rings like Dave said oil smoke on decel: this can point to worn valve guides. Closed throttle, high vacuum pulls the oil past the seals/guides and burns the oil I'm not too familiar with the FI cars but I've heard they are pretty 'dirty' on decel so this could be unburned fuel pops you're hearing. If you have exhaust leaks, you can get the pops and backfires too

Zero, in case you haven't seen it yet: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37399 I know a lot of my Celica friends are going. The 1st Gen Celica admin told me 8 guys from the forum were going. I am probably going to meet up with 2 of them in Concord before driving on to Pleasanton

Test-fitting, clamping, positioning, patience. I used body work vice grips and c-clamps to test fit and position. My dad helped me position it and hold it. It definitely helps to have a friend/helper. I trimmed mine in a couple spots to get it just where I wanted it. I bought some M6 black oxide bolts, nuts, and fender washers from ACE Hardware. It's dark outside and I can't remember how many but I'm thinking I have 6 or 7 bolts for the mounting. I drilled the holes and bolted it up. It wasn't perfectly flush with the clamps but the bolts pulled it flush to the valance. It's not going anywhere and it made a noticeable difference in freeway manners. It feels more composed and less prone to wander or wind influence. It's hard to describe if you've never added a front spoiler. Pics are in My Z Photos

I know I've posted the page number before from the FSM but I remember the torque spec being 7-9 ft lb's on the intake/exhaust studs On my car I have better luck using 1/4 drive sockets and extensions (also use 1 universal) for accessibility. I have used an inch-pound torque wrench in 1/4 drive and I've also used a 3/8 drive torque wrench with a 1/4 adapter. Take your time and don't skimp on the anti-seize. I re-used my original washers and used the nuts that came in the MSA stud kit. Stainless hardware would be up to you

Nicely done!

Thunderhill is a fantastic track! I drove my car there back in December, was my first full-track event in the Datsun! wish I were free, it's probably going to be a great weekend, with great sounding cars

I like the glass work, nicely molded into the original back panel. Clever use of the EVAP canister lump too for the amp. You'll have some people lining up for speaker panels and installs if you're not careful

I was under the impression the Fidanza aluminum flywheels accept both 225 and 240mm discs. It is drilled for both pressure plates I thought

Wow those are really cool, and they're a good size. Those should fetch some good money, they look to be in great shape. I'd rock those in a heart beat but I just picked up 16s and tires a couple weeks ago

There's a complete N47 head with cam at my friend's shop, and it has an internally oiled cam.

At least you caught it before anything happened. I don't like doing things twice either but it's better to catch mistakes early

I don't know what the new strut looks like but will some simple bolt-in fabbed brackets work to fit it? It's a stretch but some serious rock crawlers and pre-runners use Fox air shocks (or some other company's air shocks), and those are pressurized with Nitrogen. They are pressure adjustable so shops are equipped to serve those customers (that don't already have their own bottles). You might need a fitting or valve in place of the screw but maybe it can work? The other challenge is knowing what to pressurize the strut to and if the seals hold at the correct pressure spec. hope this helps

It was both a LOT of fun and exhausting. It's fun driving with the Toyota guys, normal people don't have a clue what an old Celica is. So many random people walk up and ask what kind of car it is, and just sort of stare. We were joking we were a pack of skittles driving to the show There were 400+ cars in the show and thousands of people came to check it out. One of our friends is Oakland Police and brought his Scion to the show, he thought at least 5000 people showed up. We were hearing from the spectators it was a 2 hour wait to get through the line. I have never seen an import show like this

the TC rod cup/ball bushings are supposed to offer nice range of motion, I plan on running them until I spring for adjustable tension rods. Install and impressions of the TC rod bushing upgrade http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm The site in general is very helpful http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

You probably would have liked the WekSos (weak sauce) show (WekFest) in San Francisco last week. We convoyed from Oakland. I was in my friend's truck we were towing his Corolla race car and we had 2 510's, 3 Celica's, 1 peanut Corolla, and a Starlet. One 510 was KA powered, the other was an SR turbo. 2 Celica's were rocking S2K engines and the 3rd with 22r with Webers. The peanut has a 20 Valve 4AG with Haltech and the Starlet also had an S2K engine/trans. Fun time, also lots of VIP cars in the show

Wat's, Rewinds, and XXR (sportmax) have the stepped lip while the Panasports and RB (RBR's) do not. Besides the spokes, I think the lip makes a heck of a difference in the appearance. If I didn't have my 16s waiting for installation and 14" wats on my car I'd be shopping for some 15x8 or wider SSR MkII's. I love a good old school wheel.

I would have it done but I am 95% sure my window seal is no good and leaking slightly. I want to do the seals (rear leaks too) before I make my windshield really cool with the banner

That's right, I forgot the shiny side is against the windshield. Thanks again

I drove Thunderhill the first time in December. They warned us newcomers about turn 9 and told us to point the car at the water tower on the hill as you're coming over. I thought it was a great trick, you can't see anything cresting that hill. Then I got the car sideways in turn 11 downshifting and clutching out too late into the turn. Being a newbie on the track I got pretty good at point-by's

Mine arrived today, great packing! I haven't taken mine out of the bag yet. I want to avoid handling it too much and covering it with finger prints. Are they fairly durable when you are handling them? This is pretty new territory for me

Wow, nicely done!

This may also be obvious but if you go off and get stuck, don't get out of the car. I've been to a few private track events now and that is really frowned upon because it is so dangerous. One guy was told he was restricted to the skid pad after that (and it was only 10am) Like everyone said, take your time to get used to the track and go your own pace. It will be loads of fun On Sunday, there was a BMW that flipped at Buttonwillow driving wreckless in grip. He got sideways, slid off, and the whole car flipped when the tires sank into the soft mud. Don't drive like an idiot, drive within your limits and you'll have a great day

You know I just remembered I painted the flowmaster in the rear of my car with your basic flat black Ace Hardware spray paint. That was last August and it's not peeling or anything. I also didn't do an ounce of prep, just sprayed. The rear of the exhaust doesn't actually get all that hot on a non-turbo engine. It's a bit too hot to touch but it's not so bad that it damaged my muffler paint The header paint I did the 'on-car' curing process, which involves starting/running the engine for 10 minutes and allowing to cool, then again for 10 minutes and allow to cool, and the finally a 20 run and allow to cool. It's not hard but it can be pretty time consuming. It actually wasn't bad because I was tuning the carbs while the paint was cooking.