70 Cam Guy

I would probably try a heavier oil like everyone is suggesting. I am running the 10W30 VR1 and haven't seen a drop in level since I did the change. I also have pretty low miles on the car. The high zinc oils are supposed to be great for our engines.

That car was at JCCS, very clean. They are Wats (Watanabe) like everyone has said. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/JCCS%202009/IMG_0341.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/70CamGuy/JCCS%202009/IMG_0375.jpg Check out the Rewinds, and Rota RB-R. The low offset RB wheels look good, and are not labeled on Rota's site as RB-R yet. XXR (Sportmax) has some good looking wheels as well that have been popular

When I painted my header, I used VHT flame proof header paint in flat black. I think it's rated to 2000 degrees? There is a curing process that can be done on the car or off the car in an oven. Oven is hard to do with a i6 header but you might be able to do it with a tail pipe. I would not do this with my kitchen oven by the way The VHT paint has a nice spray tip too

Nicely done, Arne! I look forward to seeing them

Good luck, I am curious how this is resolved. I am picking up some 205/50/16 General Exclaim UHP's tomorrow at my friend's shop

That's too bad about the shop. Maybe you can play with the tire pressures to improve the response and performance. I rotate mine every oil change, which is 5K on my Honda. I missed a couple early on in their tread life and I'm regretting it now. They are pretty noisy because of the wear. Newer Civics have -2 degrees rear camber so they do a number on rear tires

I had my local parts house order me a fel-pro gasket and it seems to be working really well. Like Jon, I used the high temp copper RTV (only on the header side) and let it sit while I gathered the tools. The fel-pro looks to be a laminated graphite gasket and the ports are much bigger than the MSA gasket. I see now there will be some room for port/gasket matching eventually. It's nice to have the car running again and leak free. Seems like the repairs to the header have done the trick so I can keep my old Clifford Hopefully the Hooker gaskets arrive soon but it's less pressing now

First off, let me start with these are not installed yet. I have a few projects running concurrently for the moment so it will likely take a couple more weeks for me to get them in the car. I've been thinking about doing 911 seats for a while and opportunity arose to buy a nice pair for a nice price. They are from an early 90s 911 and the driver has power. He explained the front and back of the seat bottom can be adjusted for elevation. They are certainly not light but I haven't weighed them yet. The seats have leather fronts and vinyl backs. The seats have bottom mounts so adapting them to the Z's sliders should not be too tough. As you can tell, these look very similar to the Z seats and Porsche has used this basic design for a long time. I am not sure which seat came first but it would not surprise me if Datsun copied Recaro on these. I wanted sport seats that looked correct in the Z and I think these will work beautifully. They are also VERY comfortable, Porsche would not have used them for so long if they hadn't done something right. As you can see in the first picture, they were grimy and needed some cleaning. One of my friends is an old time body man and general car guy, and he suggested using Kiwi Saddle Soap to clean and restore the leather/vinyl. Having followed his advice in the past with great success I had no trouble giving it a try. Using a bucket of water, fresh sponge, and 2 white towels, I set to work. The soap lathers with the sponge and elbow grease does the rest. When I was done with a section I wiped it down with the towel. It was pretty straight forward and this stuff worked great. I washed each seat and put them in the sun and then washed them a second time. The difference is night and day, the seats are clean and they are much softer than before. The driver's bolsters have some wear but the leather is not cracked yet. Still to be determined is the color. I have the butterscotch interior so these may be in for a color change but I am waiting to see how they look

A 205/55/15 opens some possibilities but that looks a hair shorter overall than the 195/60. I am sure you'll like the 960AS's, they seem quite popular on the tire rack reviews. Sometimes the internet can hurt our decision making since we have the ability to over-research anything now. Go with your gut and have fun on the new Bridgestones!

I am not sure if this link is going to work but it looks like the 960AS is ranked pretty well on Tire Rack in the category. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=UHPAS&width=195%2F&ratio=60&diameter=15&tireSearch=true I have actually been happy with the 019's on my Honda but they 205/55/16 so maybe the response is different. What sort of driving are you going to be doing with the car? When I get tires soon, I'll be trying the General Exclaim UHP (Summer Tire). The size I am looking at is W rated. I plan to run at the track some more this year and drive to work occasionally. I don't need a high mileage tire but I am keeping possible rain performance in mind. It even has a 380 tread wear rating http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=Exclaim+UHP They are rated #5 in the category against some big name contenders and are nicely priced against the others in the top 5

Agreed. Typically ground shipped parts from Summit get here in within a day or two because they come from Reno. My schedule makes it difficult to make it to the local speed shop when they're open. I haven't had much time to call around the last couple weeks, been running non stop

You will likely receive even more responses on HybridZ in the Brakes/Wheels/Suspension forum if you haven't already posted there. I don't race but I have already have a spare pair of Aluminum drums because of the limited availability

It really depends on what's under the hood. One of the guys I know has an 18RG and I blew right by him on the Altamont but another friend has an F20C from an S2000 and he'll smoke me like I'm standing still. One of the other guys has a 22RET and that thing is pretty fast. 22RE swap is pretty common on those. It's way more power than the 4A or even 20R, and it's rock solid reliable

If you're looking for a 1st Gen Celica, check out their forum. I know a lot of them, nice group of enthusiasts. http://www.1stgencelica.com The early Celica's are good looking cars and nobody knows what they are outside of the old school crowd. I think a lot of the AE86 parts will bolt on with minimal work

I just checked my order status and expected arrival of the gasket changed to 2/26 :stupid: It said 2/3 expected arrival for a while but must have changed in the last couple days. Jeg's lists it on their website but says "ships in 4 days". I might have to call them and ask if they're available there.

Awesome, I remember watching these cars run at the Wine Country Classics @ Infineon. That was a hell of a thing to watch and hear!

I have a '73 with earlier balance tube and 4-screw SU's. My throttle opener is completely removed. It hasn't really been a problem. Have you checked the other simple checks? No vacuum leaks, points/ignition is not pitted/good, fuel pressure is good, etc. Are the carbs balanced at idle and off idle? Have you gone through the mixture/balance procedure?

If I follow what you're describing, I just use clear hose that fits snugly over the nipple of the bleeder (maybe 3/16" or 1/4" ID). If you completely cover the bleeder with hose it is more difficult to open and close the bleeder as the brake pedal is held, and then released. I just jam on whatever I can so it's snug and doesn't fall off as I open and close the bleeder I don't have a picture of my Gatorade brake fluid bottle but if you're looking for a catch can, this works http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_bleeding_brakes/bleeding_brakes.JPG

If the engine is running that rich, do not buy a new cat yet. An overly rich running condition will overheat and burn up a new cat. When it's running properly, then think about a new cat

If the engine came from later model, I am pretty sure you can use the engine controls for the newer engine. Someone swapping a KA twin cam into a single cam S13 would use the twin cam computer to run and smog the car. I know that's apples and oranges but from what you guys are saying, they made some major revisions to the L28 FI as they went I guess it's hard to know what to recommend without knowing what he's working with

Right on, you never know sometimes. If you crack the bleeders and see air bubbles come out before or with the fluid, you know you have air in the lines. Good luck!

I figured it was the details that I wouldn't recognize. Is there a way to ID which ECU came with the car? If it has the later computer, perhaps the retrofit was never finished I was also suspecting leaking injectors at first but it's impossible to say. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge for high pressure, you can watch the pressure after the engine is shut off. If the 280's are anything like newer cars, fuel pressure should not drop very quickly. Often there is even a spec for pressure drop over time. If the pressure falls too quickly, you can suspect leaking injectors

Agreed, very good advice. It's also very easy and quick to check

You can use the bleeders on the master to bleed it on the car What exactly prompted this project? Is your pedal sinking after the initial application? The brakes are a sealed system and if the pedal is fading under normal driving, you should suspect a loss in pressure via an external leak or possibly an internal leak (maybe the master cylinder) Air in the lines can cause a spongy/squishy feel in the pedal. Have you inspected your wheel cylinders and calipers for leaks? Likely you will need to carefully pull back the rubber boots on the wheel cylinder and caliper piston to expose a leak. Evidence of leaks can sometimes be seen by leak trails in the dust or contaminated pads/shoes. These areas should be bone dry (assuming no rain) I have read the same order of bleeding you listed except that I had better luck with the traditional order or pass rear, driver rear, pass fr, left fr. Your mileage may vary, I'd still try the order commonly recommended here first.

Did your car fail as a gross polluter? What gasses did it fail for? High CO? High HC? Is it possible the exhaust manifold and exhaust were replaced from a later car? maybe the bung was welded on for an A/F gauge? That intake looks like an earlier one (to my untrained eyes) because it lacks the EGR at the rear. I don't think I'd give up on the car so easily. There are areas to look for a rich running condition (basic ignition components, coolant temp sensor/switch, fuel pressure, thermo time switch(?), etc)