Randalla

Well, just checked and I have power at the lighter so at least it is grounded. Need to check further to see if there's a wire from the gauges to that same ground that may not be grounding (broken or disconnected wire). Would have thought the gauges would be grounded through the part of the dash structure itself, but maybe not.

Why didn't I think of that?🙂 Thanks for the suggestion and quick check.

I'm told that the two gauges share the same ground at the cigarette lighter. Could that possibly be the issue?

Just checked all the gauges again to verify. Fuel swings from empty to full (right) at start up and stays there till car is shut off (regardless of how much gas is in the tank). Temperature does not move from the full cold position (left). Everything else work as it should (ammeter, oil pressure, etc.). Thank you for your thoughts Captain Obvious.

Steve, Thank you for weighing in on this problem. I realized this morning that I left out an important part of this issue. The box I mentioned is supposedly attached to the back of the speedometer. I neglected to mention where it was located. I haven't stood on my head yet to look under the dash to see if I can spot the box. Maybe someone on the site has a speedo in their parts stash they could snap a picture of. If this is indeed the culprit the next question is whether there is a replacement, or a work around. On my Roadster I was able to open up a small metal box attached to the steering column and replace the guts with a resistor and wire it in place.

I have a 1972 240Z that I'm having an issue with. This past year on a club run, I lost both the temperature and fuel gauges. Prior to losing them I noticed the readings were way off, and swinging slowly from one end to the other before both stopped working all together. I had a similar issue on my Datsun Roadster that I traced down to a faulty instrument voltage regulator, which steps voltage down from 12 volts to about 9 volts for those two functions. I'm wondering if that may be the same issue on my 240Z. I've seen photos of a box on the back side of a 1973 240Z that someone told me provided the same function. If true I'm wondering if that was only on 1973 models, or earlier models as well. I'll need to find one or find a work around. Can anyone help?

Thanks Patcon. Appreciate your intentions🙂

Finally had a chance to take a friend's 240Z hood latch apart and measure the length of the cable from the cover at the latch end, to the cable stop at the end towards the latch. For those interested, the measure should be 1-1/8". Mine is now back together and the release and lock are working great.

Thanks Mike. I had seen those posts, but unfortunately they don't directly address my issue at this point. I already installed an emergency cable release in the event this happens again, but want to restore the original function using the T handle. Just trying to ascertain the length of cable from the end of the cover to the latch itself. It has to be pretty precise to function properly. It's probably close to 1 inch but I can't be sure. Thanks again for weighing in Mike.

After more than 50 years my original hood release cable finally gave up the ghost, breaking right at the release latch. The entire replacement is available for around $75, but I thought I'd take a shot at refurbishing the old component parts. Where the cable goes into the T handle, it was originally crimped in place by the factory. My first step was to grind flat the end of the metal rod threaded into the T handle that the cable went into, center punch the end, and drill the center out about 1-1/2" deep with a 1/16" drill, to fit a 1/16" braided cable from the local hardware store (you'll need roughly 4 feet). I also picked up some aluminum crimp on cable stops for the end going to the hood latch itself. I mixed some JB Weld up and smeared it on the end of the cable going into the T handle, then squeezed the metal end flat in my vise for good measure. With the cable in the T handle end secure, I'm now turning to the latch end. This is a little tricky, and where I'm hoping someone can advise. I need to be sure the end of the cable coming out of the black cable cover is cut to the correct length before crimping on the aluminum cable stop. Too short and it won't allow the catch to engage the pin on the hood. Too long and it won't pull the cable enough to release the catch. As best as I can tell the catch needs about 1/2" - 3/4" of travel. What I need is a good measurement for the cable length from the point it exits the cable cover to the point where the ball is crimped on to keep the cable in the "birdcage" bracket. My best guess is around an inch but I don't have one in tact to measure. Can anyone assist? Thanks!

After more than 50 years my original hood release cable finally gave up the ghost, breaking right at the release latch. The entire replacement is available for around $75, but I thought I'd take a shot at refurbishing the old component parts. Where the cable goes into the T handle, it was originally crimped in place by the factory. My first step was to grind flat the end of the metal rod threaded into the T handle that the cable went into, center punch the end, and drill the center out about 1-1/2" deep with a 1/16" drill, to fit a 1/16" braided cable from the local hardware store (you'll need roughly 4 feet). I also picked up some aluminum crimp on cable stops for the end going to the hood latch itself. I mixed some JB Weld up and smeared it on the end of the cable going into the T handle, then squeezed the metal end flat in my vise for good measure. With the cable in the T handle end secure, I'm now turning to the latch end. This is a little tricky, and where I'm hoping someone can advise. I need to be sure the end of the cable coming out of the black cable cover is cut to the correct length before crimping on the aluminum cable stop. Too short and it won't allow the catch to engage the pin on the hood. Too long and it won't pull the cable enough to release the catch. As best as I can tell the catch needs about 1/2" - 3/4" of travel. What I need is a good measurement for the cable length from the point it exits the cable cover to the point where the ball is crimped on to keep the cable in the "birdcage" bracket. My best guess is around an inch but I don't have one in tact to measure. Can anyone assist? Thanks!

Thanks guys. Just found the post someone made showing the tool they made to trip the catch. Should have searched harder here. Thanks for your responses.

Just went to pull my hood release and the cable broke. Looks like it must have broke at the hood catch itself, so it is not readily accessible. Is there a work around to get the hood open from underneath so I can replace the cable??? Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks much guys! I thought it was somewhere in the 90's but could not find the actual years. I subsequently found a post somewhere else that said 1993-2002, but unsure if that's right or not. On my car the seals really fit perfectly, even the 45 degree angle. I seem to recall having to cut off about 8" for a perfect fit, and then as Chuck said, buried the seam under the kickplate. Was not aware (or had forgotten) that the rear door seals were longer. Makes sense that they would probably be in better shape than the front seals. Appreciate the assistance guys!

I installed these on my 1972 240Z 10 years ago and was very pleased with them. Trying to direct a friend who needs to replace his seals but can't for the life of me find what year Kia Sportage works. I seem to remember the ones on the front doors fit best. Anyone recall what year Sportage seals fit.