Randalla

Friend and I spent a couple of hours this morning again trying to align the hood. We made some progress but still not to my satisfaction. The challenge is that the various adjustment points can move in a variety of planes (forward, aft, up, down, etc.) and the results are not always predictable until bolts are locked back down tight. Chuck, since you seem to have the most experience with this black magic juggling act, I may enlist your help next week when you're available. I can bring my Z by.

Thanks Chuck and Mark for weighing in. This is on my list to get sorted tomorrow morning. I'll report back here later in the day. Wish me luck, as I've a show to attend Sunday morning.😃 Thanks again!

Here are a couple shots of the hinges, left and right. Not sure you can really see anything that looks wrong. I'll try again tomorrow with both side hinges loose and pressure on the hood before tightening. Sightunseen, here's a couple of shots of my Z. It's actually been done for years and I'm finally getting around to the hood, though it was much better before I started on "alignment."

Here are a few pics showing side to side hood alignment and the raised corner on the driver's side. Passenger's side is not quite as high but still much higher than the headlight bucket. The latch holds the hood down and the side to side alignment is pretty good. No interference from the rubber hood bumpers on the side of hood.

I'm pulling my hair out trying to get the hood lined up on my 240Z. I have no issues lining the hood up fore and aft. My problem is the leading edge of the hood sits too proud (higher) nearly 1/2" of the fenders. I first tried loosening the two bolts that attach the hinge to the hood bracket to gain adjustment. That was great for fore and aft adjustment but did not help hood height. Next I loosened the three hinge bolts to the body to see if the hood hinge was set too high. The hinge is as low as it will go and the hood still sits way too proud. I'm sure there's a procedure, and am wondering if any of you have solved this in the past. I'm trying one side at a time. Thoughts?

Anyone on this site that can recommend someone to troubleshoot/rebuild the switch on my 1972 240Z? Everything seems to be working except the headlight switch itself. Thanks!

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

9 times out of 10 the problem on 4-screws is a misaligned nozzle, particularly if the large retaining nut underneath was loosened for some reason. There is a tool to help center the nozzle. If you take the needle out of the piston you insert the tool instead, which centers the nozzle in the casting. While the tool is in the piston and the piston pushed down in the chamber, tighten the large nut in place. Once the nut is tight, remove the piston and remove the tool. Before you re-insert the needle, chuck it in a drill motor and spin it to make sure it is perfectly straight. If it is, reinsert the needle in the piston and screw the dome back on. I'll take a photo of my tool and post it here shortly.

Well, just checked and I have power at the lighter so at least it is grounded. Need to check further to see if there's a wire from the gauges to that same ground that may not be grounding (broken or disconnected wire). Would have thought the gauges would be grounded through the part of the dash structure itself, but maybe not.

Why didn't I think of that?🙂 Thanks for the suggestion and quick check.

I'm told that the two gauges share the same ground at the cigarette lighter. Could that possibly be the issue?

Just checked all the gauges again to verify. Fuel swings from empty to full (right) at start up and stays there till car is shut off (regardless of how much gas is in the tank). Temperature does not move from the full cold position (left). Everything else work as it should (ammeter, oil pressure, etc.). Thank you for your thoughts Captain Obvious.

Steve, Thank you for weighing in on this problem. I realized this morning that I left out an important part of this issue. The box I mentioned is supposedly attached to the back of the speedometer. I neglected to mention where it was located. I haven't stood on my head yet to look under the dash to see if I can spot the box. Maybe someone on the site has a speedo in their parts stash they could snap a picture of. If this is indeed the culprit the next question is whether there is a replacement, or a work around. On my Roadster I was able to open up a small metal box attached to the steering column and replace the guts with a resistor and wire it in place.

I have a 1972 240Z that I'm having an issue with. This past year on a club run, I lost both the temperature and fuel gauges. Prior to losing them I noticed the readings were way off, and swinging slowly from one end to the other before both stopped working all together. I had a similar issue on my Datsun Roadster that I traced down to a faulty instrument voltage regulator, which steps voltage down from 12 volts to about 9 volts for those two functions. I'm wondering if that may be the same issue on my 240Z. I've seen photos of a box on the back side of a 1973 240Z that someone told me provided the same function. If true I'm wondering if that was only on 1973 models, or earlier models as well. I'll need to find one or find a work around. Can anyone help?

Thanks Patcon. Appreciate your intentions🙂