Randalla

Checked this morning to see what part numbers I had on mine and if there was a difference in measurement between the bottom of the stopper and the full line. The dipstick from my L-24 has the same part number you referenced, E3002. The other one I have has the suffix P6500. The difference in measurement from bottom of stopper to full line is 7- 3/16" for E3002 and 6-7/8" for P6500 (5/16"). Memory is a little fuzzy but I seem to recall having other dipsticks with an even different number, E3001 as I recall, but maybe E3000. Would be interested to know if any of you have a part number on your dipstick corresponding to either of those numbers. Chickenman, thank you for your response.

Some time ago I'd collected 8-10 dipsticks from various S30 and S31 engines. At the time I noticed there were three different lengths, measured from the bottom of the rubber stopper to the tip of the dipstick. I have two dipsticks currently that differ in length by 3/8". Does anybody know which sticks are for which block? Theoretically, the amount of oil in an engine could be off by 3/8," potentially translating to being 1/2 to a full quart different. I'm currently running the short dipstick from my L-24 engine in an L-28 F54 block from a 280ZX. It's obviously easy to swap one out for the other but I don't know for sure which is correct for the engine in my car. I'm wondering if the oil pans were shallower or deeper for the different L series 6 cylinder motors and that was the reason for the change in length. Anyone have the answer to this trivia question???

Here's a copy of an early brochure. Very 70's hair and clothes.

Scarab used 327's on the earlier cars then shifted to 350's. I'm not sure of the exact timing, but it seems they changed to 350's sometime in 1980. What a Scarab is, and is not, can be a bit confusing. Some people incorrectly call all V-8 Zcars Scarabs. Scarab Engineering sold individual parts from their mail order catalog to those building their V-8 Z car at home, however some items were only available on the turnkey factory built cars, all of which were individually numbered, with I.D. plates on the driver's side door jam. Best guess at this point is some number less than 200 of the factory cars were originally built and sold by Scarab. How many are still left is anybody's guess, but about 20 numbered cars are known by the registry. All factory built cars had many things in common, but since there were many extra cost options/choices, it's likely no two cars were exactly alike.

Appreciate you trying to "help" me, but I know exactly what I have. I've been collecting Scarab literature for many years. There's plenty of information detailing what constitutes a Scarab. I have copies of the Scarab catalog, price list, installation manual (for the do it your selfers) and most all of the factory sales literature and press articles over more than 20 years. The only motors that had roller rockers (the brand in my motor) was the 370 HP version and the turbo version (per Scarab factory literature). I really don't care how valuable the car might be. I'm more interested in the car itself and its history. The before picture of the engine was missing the correct valve covers, intake, carburetor and headers but everything else was there. Below is a pic of the motor before restoration with the roller valve-train exposed. The restored engine shot shows the motor with parts on it that I had to source, though I will still have to have headers reproduced. I'd be happy to answer specific questions you might have.

Thought I'd post a couple of pics showing the Scarab factory ID plates as well as the Nissan ID plates on my car. Still seems to be a lot of confusion about what constitutes a "factory" car. All factory cars had the numbered plate shown. The longer plate was on the glove box door recess. Additionally, all factory cars had "Scarab" valve covers and bell housings. The C-pillar bugs and fender "Scarab" nameplates were also on all factory cars. Zed Head, as far as Chevy stats, there were four different horsepower versions. My car is the 370 HP version (highest HP next to the few turbo Scarab motors built) with four bolt main, roller rockers, single plane Edelbrock Torquer intake manifold, block casting code 3970010, cast iron, angle plug, double hump heads (large valve) and Carter 9625 four barrel carburetor. The transmission in my car is a Borg Warner Super T-10 4-speed. Hope that helps you.

Grannyknot, Thanks for the compliment on the engine. I know about the car in your picture that was trailered to Z-Con. It's an attempt to make it look like a Scarab, but it's not a factory numbered car and from what I can see in your picture there are a number of things that are incorrect. My guess is this car was modified at some point with some parts bought ala-carte from Scarab from their catalog, but it's definitely not a factory built, numbered car. Do you have any additional pictures you could post?

A few pictures of the restored and detailed engine and Borg Warner T-10 transmission. I also included a pic of the engine as I found it. The body is coming along. Decided to replace both rear quarters, fenders and hatch. There was rust under the bonded fiberglass and I wanted to start with a solid foundation. The rest of the car was rust free but because the car was stored outside for some time, water found its way behind the fiberglass. More details and photos coming.

Check the post above showing my units. The ad is for Z Car Depot, not Z Therapy. Ryan at Z Car Depot is a customer of mine and I believe he may still have a few units left.

Bruce and Z Therapy don't have them. I'm the manufacturer and sell them on Ebay for $69.95. I had the same issue as many others so I designed this product. The nice thing about them is that you can check fuel levels with the running or not

The Scarab Registry is not posted on-line, as far as I know. It was created and is maintained privately by Trevor and Craig, both of whom own or owned Scarabs.

Zed Head, if you're asking if I have a build sheet, the answer is no. I do have the list of standard features on all Scarabs, know what #160 is missing and I know what Scarab options mine has on it. I've been collecting Scarab information for years and the guys who run the registry have been hugely helpful.

This is a factory car, not an owner built Scarab. As such, there was a list of standard "Scarab" factory equipment included on every car and then a number of owner decisions/extra cost options that could be selected so Scarab could personalize each car, based on owner preference and pocketbook. Engine HP started at 300 and topped out at 425 for the 350 turbo cars.

Thought I would start a thread here as I begin restoration on Scarab #160. I recently purchased the car after seven years chasing it. #160 is built on a 1975 280Z chassis. It has the wide body rear quarters and front fender flairs, I'm told it's one of three "wide body" cars currently listed in the registry. The car is in need of a full restoration and as such will take time. I plan to post updates as the project progresses.

That's a great idea Dave. I will definitely investigate. Thank you.

The level of fuel in the float bowls is the first step to be taken before making any other fine adjustments to optimize “runability” (other than valve adjustment). In my experience Float-Sync gets you to the baseline as quickly and accurately as possible. I learned, like most of us, the way to set float levels is to remove the float bowl lid and measure the distance between the lid and the top of the float when the cover is inverted. What I have since learned is how imprecise this approach actually is (in terms of optimizing engine performance) because of so many variables. Some of those variables include whether the carbs are being run with or without float bowl gaskets, how many turns down the jet nozzles are set, if the float valve is fully opening and closing, if the float bowl lid has short or long ears and if floats are intact and their buoyancy is the same in each float bowl and I’m sure there are a number of others. For those more fluent with SU's than I, what other variables am I missing...Bruce Palmer?

Sold the first 4 sets posted for sale on eBay in the matter of a few days. I posted a few additional sets this morning if you're interested.

Have not yet tried that siteunseen. Should not affect the way the car runs because the float bowl lid is vented anyway. Not sure about them fitting behind the stock air box, but I will check and report back. My car is in offsite storage at the moment.

If any of you are interested in a set, Private Message me. I can do a little better on the price, outside of an eBay sale. Thanks for all the feedback received so far and specifically to Duffman for the user review.

Thanks for your purchase Jonathan. Please e-mail me and let me know how you like them when you've had a chance to try them out. Your set was shipped yesterday.

Originally I had planned to use glass until someone suggested the units would be useless if someone dropped them. The sight glasses are made of Acrylic. Yes, they are intended to be used as test devices rather than a permanent install. Covering the end of the of the tubes with a cap won't allow the gas to rise in the sight glass to the same level in the bowls because there is no way to vent the pressure created. I too would love to solve the problem of removing the lids to check and adjust floats but that seems an impossibility, LOL.

Setting floats by removing the float bowl lid and measuring the distance between the lid and top of the float is imprecise at best, because there are so many other variables. Using a hose as you suggested is another option, but for me it was nearly impossible to do both carbs simultaneously without having two extra hands. With the Float-Sync units screwed into each outlet you can visually see exactly where the level is inside the bowl, hands free. An added bonus is that you can view the level in the site glass as you run RPM's up to assure the levels don't change. Each unit has a pair of fuel grade O rings to seal against leaks. No need for a wrench to install, you can turn it in by hand and it will not leak. To make float adjustments, you remove the four screws on each float bowl and lift the cover off with float attached. The metal tabs on the floats can be bent slightly up or down to change the fuel level in each bowl. With the float hanging below the cover, bending the float tab down will raise the fuel level in the bowl. Bending the tab up on the float will lower the fuel level. To observe how your adjustments have changed fuel level in the bowls just replace and secure covers, then restart the car to inspect fuel levels. You'll need to be patient as it may take a few attempts to sync float levels precisely.

I've been working on a new product for the last six months that I'd love to get some feedback on. I've always known getting the floats in SU's set properly, and knowing for sure they were set the same in both carbs was important, but the method of doing so always seemed imprecise and less than elegant. I developed Float-Sync to know precisely where floats were set and have a visual reference, without removing the float bowl lids. On three screw SU's, there's a threaded plug in the float bowl that can be easily removed to substitute Float-Sync. The level of fuel in the float bowl dictates the level of fuel in the jet nozzle. This is a big deal for SU carburetors because the fuel level in the jet nozzle directly impacts engine performance. When the engine is running, a vacuum is created in the SU carburetor venturi that pulls fuel out of the jet nozzle, mixing it with air and drawing it into the engine. If float levels are adjusted too high, fuel puddles at the top of the jet, allowing too much to be drawn into the engine, creating a rich condition. If the float is adjusted too low, it's harder to pull fuel out of the jet, creating a lean condition. A rich condition can cause plug fouling, poor fuel economy, gas fumes, diluted crankcase oil (contributing to blow by and reduced engine protection), and in extreme cases potential for an engine fire. A lean condition can cause the engine to stumble, back-fire, ping and run hotter than it should, creating the potential to burn valves. Float-Sync allows you to see precisely where your floats are. You can see the fuel level, with the engine running, throughout the entire RPM range… all without opening the float bowls. You will never wonder again if your floats are adjusted correctly. I'd be interested in your feedback and suggestions. I listed a few sets for sale on eBay yesterday to gauge interest. Thanks

I've sold over 100 sets of 240Z chrome taillight bars and have received nothing but accolades. The only complaint I've received to date was from George, who posted here previously. Since he was unhappy, I offered to refund the full price, after receiving his back. If you're considering buying a pair, I'd be happy to provide references verifying the quality of the parts I reproduced. I won't name names here, but suffice it to say, many sets have been sold to Z enthusiasts well known on this site (maybe some of them will weigh in). One person in particular purchased 10 sets. I agree with George that the center post is shorter than the OEM part, so in that sense it's not 100% accurate. Unfortunately, I learned this after my parts were completed. For those that don't know, there are three mounting posts on each taillight bar. The two posts on each end are more than sufficient to secure the bars in place. I wont be re-producing any more sets with longer center posts. My offer still stands to you, George. If you think you can source better parts, I'll happily refund your money when I've received my parts back.

Thanks EuroDat. Good info and solid advice. Since the E88 I have came with a bunch of parts I purchased I don't have any idea what year car it came from. Is there a way to visually tell what I have? Would be helpful to know whether I keep it or sell it.