Randalla

Sorry, should have left my direct email address. For anyone interested or having questions, you can email me at datsun.floatsync@gmail.com. I received and approved production samples of the aluminum blocks earlier today. Float Syncs will be back in inventory soon.

Thanks for posting the picture above ConVerTT. I had the same thought as you regarding the likelihood of the hatch vs. the glass being replaced. The mystery deepens...

Just a quick update on my Float-Sync production. I will be receiving production samples of one of the primary components later today. Should have some new units to sell before the end of April. PM me if you're interested and I'll get back to you with pricing as soon as my price quotes come back.

240260280, very nice transformation after clean up. 7tooZ, I think given your VIN#, you may have a very early Series II car. I believe the series one cars ended somewhere around 21,000. The way it's equipped would seem to suggest that.

Now that's helpful and interesting, thanks Hoover. Our cars are 500 units apart with the same later air cleaners and valve covers, at least. I'm interested to know if anyone has seen a vertical glass hatch that's not vented, that history supports was factory installed. Seems odd that it would be mismatched unless the hatch was replaced at some point for some reason.

Jim, I know most of your cars are very early production cars. Do you have any series I cars post 19,000 by chance? I'll ring you to discuss further, later this afternoon.

I'm interested to hear from owners of late 240Z series I cars (above 19,000). I have a late Series I car that has some components consistent with earlier cars, but some components that are from later cars. My car is a clean, pretty original1971, with a build date of 1/71. The car has the correct series I steering wheel, c-pillar badges, vertical heating elements in the hatch glass, etc. There are, however a few things that seem odd and inconsistent with the earlier cars. Though the car has the correct hatch glass, it does not have the vents below. The valve cover is not the 2400 version but rather the OHC version, and the air cleaner has the heat riser and the flapper. Certainly some things may have been changed over the years, but it's also possible the late cars were built with some series II parts. I'm trying to determine what was original to the car and what may have been changed. Can anyone else that has a late series I car weigh in?

FYI, I am the maker of the FloatSync and expect to have more units for sale in the next 60-90 days. For anyone interested, send me a private message and I'll follow-up with you when they're once again available. The tool will eliminate a lot of guess work and incorrect measurements. Just a reminder that the tool will only work on SUs that have the threaded plugs in the float bowls.

I will double check the mating surfaces. I have two more gaskets coming next week so will try again. Arghhhh!

Not likely, I run consistently 180-190 degrees and am running 2-1/2 exhaust and straight through glass pack muffler

I have a 1972 Z that continues to blow out the 2 holed gasket between the manifold and the down-pipe and leak. I've tried both cut rate auto parts store versions and the OEM version with equal success. The motor is mildly built and I'm running a single 2 -1/2 inch exhaust from the down-pipe to the rear. Wondering if exhaust dope might possibly help. Anyone else have a similar problem and found a solution.

Thanks guys. I'll post up here after getting the new transmission and speedo driver installed and report findings.

I have a 1972 240Z that I have recently installed a 390 rear end in. The wide ratio 5-speed transmission currently in the car has a white 19 tooth speedo driver in it which causes the speedometer to read about 5 mph too fast at 80 mph. I'm planning to swap in a red 20 tooth speedo driver and am curious if any of you math whizs can give me an idea of how much closer I'll get to the speedometer reading accurately. I realize there are other variables that come into play here, like wheel and tire size, but I'm just trying to get an idea of what to expect once I get my new close ratio 5-speed installed with the red gear. Thoughts? I'm currently running 16" Panasports with 205/50/16 tires.

Carl, thank you for posting the WSJ article. For us Scarab owners that was great exposure.

Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed the book. I'd love to see you in Scottsdale and show you my Z-cars and other cars if you are interested. Please let me know when you'll be coming out. You probably know January is car auction month in Scottsdale which is an excellent time to be here for car guys. If you know of anyone wanting a Scarab book, they are available on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/223638321695

Thanks for the heads up. Are you a member of desertdatsuns.net? If not please check us out if you are in the Valley. Just looking for a set of carbs at this point, but thank you!

Any idea of shipping cost to AZ? I'd be interested at $130 if shipping is reasonable.

Any idea what shipping to AZ would be? would you take $70?

Have the exterior of the transmission pretty well cleaned up. Since the internal condition of the trans is unknown, I'm planning to do a fill and drain at least twice before calling it good. Wondering if I should use some type of detergent additive (Seafoam, etc.) with the gear oil for the first fill. I'm most concerned with flushing out any sludge or metal particles. Any advice would be appreciated.

Bragart! See you at lunch tomorrow Mr. Shiny (Duffman)? By the way, I see the wing nuts on your air cleaner are not lined up.

Didn't do the 10 turns as I ended up only having two choices and the one I took seemed to be much tighter overall. I did notice of the two choices, one had long ears where the shift lever pin goes through and one had the short ears. Does the length of the ears identify it as an early or later ZX 5-speed? Somewhere back in my memory banks I seem to recall that the one with the longer ears was 1982-83.

Just picked up the 5-speed and brought it home. Now the cleaning and seal replacement begins. I will plan to install it over the next 60 days and report back on results. Did not find anything metal on the magnetic plug and there is very little play in the input and output shaft or noise spinning the input shaft. Fingers crossed.

I've been doing a bit of research before heading out tomorrow and selecting one of three 280ZX 5-speed transmissions I have available to me. I've read there are two slightly different versions of the FS5W71B transmissions. Supposedly the two versions have a slightly different 5th gear ratio. Apparently one version was used in 1979 and 1980 ZX's and the other in non- turbo 1981-1983 ZX's. Since the casting numbers seem to be the same, I'm wondering if there are any other ways to tell the two apart since all had been removed from the cars years ago. Any help would be much appreciated.

Excellent advice. I'll pick the best one. Clean it meticulously. Install and see what I have. If I have to pull it, I'll try my hand at a rebuild. Thanks for the input.

This is really helpful. It just may give me the confidence to tackle my first one as a trans virgin. Any idea what the rebuild kit costs and where to find one? Here in AZ the cost to have someone else rebuild a Datsun 5-speed is $800-1,000. The challenge would be fun and I'd like to be able to add that to the list of jobs I feel competent to do.