ChrisB77

Sorry to hear of your find Jared. The bad part about loving a car so much is that things like this really get under your skin. Good luck and keep us posted!

Beware Justin. Rust lurks where you dont see it. Chances are it has more rust than you think. If this doesn't intimidate you then I say go for it. These cars are worth saving and the effort you put into it will pay off! My car definately had more rust than I saw initially and requires more work than I planned but I'm up for it and can't wait till she's done.

Just cruisin CL today for Datsun deals and found this car for sale. First one I've seen. Just thought I'd post it so all could see. Definate head turner for sure!http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/1169598516.html

Just some thoughts from my own personal experience with cars. Fuel pressure bleed off after several hours is usually never a problem especially since you say it will start fine after that time. Even though the pressure gauge shows zero psi, the lines are still charged with fuel. When the pump comes on, the pressure immediately jumps up and the vehicle will start fine. If the pressure loss is too great and the fuel lines are draining back to the tank as would be the case with a bad check valve, the car would have extended cranking time but would start and run fine once the lines were filled with fuel again. As for your low pressure, the pressure regulator is the most likely failed part. On the passenger side on the engine bay there are two rubber fuel lines. One from the tank that has a filter and the other back to the tank from the regulator. If you pinch off the return line briefly with the engine running, the fuel pressure should go extremely high( about 60 psi I think). If the pressure goes up then the pump is ok and the regulator is bad. If not, then the pump can't produce anymore and should be replaced IMO

Love that photo!! Very cool. How about one of yours:cool:

Good luck with your Z Eric. Mine sits in about the same shape as yours. I'm gonna MIG weld my patches in only because I'm most familiar with it. Please update the pics and keep us all updated as you go. I've learned so much from this site in only a few short months. Can't wait till she's done!!

Lookin great Julio! I still have this to look forward to. Gonna do it myself when ready. I don't think I can beat 6 minutes!! Thanks for the photos you posted earlier. Does anyone here but me want a Z in every color? Silver looks sooo damn goood on a Z!

Hey Terry. Checked out your pictures and it looks to me the spring merely keeps the rotating parts separated. The ends may not be broken, but just worn flat from years of use. The wiper motor makes complete revolutions in one direction only. If the spring was attached to the wiper arm, it surely would break. Should be able to put it back together with plenty of grease for years more use.

I'm interested to see how this turns out for you JT. Doesn't really sound like an ECU problem. These early Nissan systems are so simple and robust that they almost never have ECU failures. I like Jared's thoughts on this. Theromotime switch could easily cause your incident.Keep us all informed when you know more. P.S. Make sure the guy at Nissan working on the car is the oldest,most experienced tech. Not some young pup who wouldn't know a Z from a Jag;)

I actually just did this today. Cut out a roughly 12x12 square just behind the front seat mount bracket. Thought about removing the bracket from the floor first, but it looked like alot of work. I left the rear bracket in place and drilled the spotwelds out. Still have lots to do, but it's gettin there! I'm definately no body man, but the great info here inspired me to try. Good luck with yours!

No clamps needed. If you've ever had to remove that short hose you'd know why. Man those little suckers are TIGHT!!

Good advice on blocking the hole off Jeff. Small things like this can sometimes cost you BIG! If the seal made it thru the chain area and into the pan, no sweat. My concern would be if the seal was caught between the chain and the gear. Bad news on startup! If you can't see it, try turning the engine by hand a couple of times. Should be OK if this works. Good luck Bob!

Looks like a good turn out and a great time. Thanks for posting the pics!

Have you considered backing onto the dolly and leaving the front wheels on the ground? Just be sure to cinch the steering wheel in position with the seat belt or tie strap.

I think Arne hit the nail on the head! Over or undercharged A/C systems can perform OK when outside temp is lower but will struggle as the temp rises. Your A/C tech could have easily verified the effect an added condensor fan would had with a box fan and a spritz of water on the condensor. Someone needs to check the high and low side pressures when the temperature is high and A/C is not working. Keep us posted. WE can figure this out!

Hey Zak, just on more thing. When the shaft is out, hold it firm and move the joint up/down/left/right thru its full range of motion. A very early sign of a bad joint will be a slight catch or bump in the joint in the same spot repeatedly. U joints in my experience don't last long once they start to go. If everthing feel fine you should be OK.

Man that looks great! Glad this turned out good for you. How soon before she's back together?

My 280 sat many years and became a home for them. When I removed the interior, found mouse droppings in every nook and cranny. With the interior completely removed, it took several hours of scrubbing to remove all traces and get that blasted smell out of it. I used Simple Green and lots of elbow grease!

Thanks for this info! I have a list of parts I need from MSA right now.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. So much work goes into the car before paint that I couldn't imagine it looking like that. Great to see your positive attitude in a trying situation(trying not to kill someone!) Best of luck!

Hope this isnt to late but here's how I do them. Open your vise jaws wide enough to rest TOB on jaws with collar below. Find a socket that will fit inside bearing and rest on collar.(22 or 23mm IIRC) Tap with hammer. I've never found these to be very tightly pressed. After it comes apart, place collar and new bearing in jaws of vise and crank. You'll be suprised how easily it goes together!

Welcome from another Chris with a 77! Gotta say she's looking good so far. Would you happen to have pics from the front? I'm still undecided how I want mine to look and like seeing others. Thanks and welcome again!

Nice ride!! Love those wheels! Lets see some engine photos.

I definately LOVE the 370! You won't be disappointed if you drive it. Incredibly smooth and fast. Feels WAY faster that a 350Z. I'm also on the 2045 list.:disappoin

Well guys, Saturday turned out great! My 77 Z has been parked since 91. Fuel system was in horrible shape. Fuel tank was extremely rusty, pump wouldn't run and injectors were plugged with rust and wouldn't click when voltage was applied. I removed the tank and sent it out for repair at a local shop. Still isn't back yet. New pump and injectors arrived Thursday. I removed the fuel rail, refinished it and installed the remanned injectors. Got the rail installed and attached a pressurized fuel canister to it. Climed in and hit the key! 3 revs and she FIRED UP! Amazing! No missing,smoking , nothing but smooth fast idle. The guys in the shop were stunned that this car sounded so good after being parked for so long. Can't wait to here her run again tomorrow!