Jusjofok

Thanks for the inputs guys, keep them coming. Mike W, I would really like for the panels to be covered just as the original ones were and I think that if done correctly one wouldn't be able to tell unless the panel was removed. Jimmy Z and esprist, I am talking about the interior door panel, I haven't found anything about anyone trying to make new ones, just repairing old ones. I might have to get with this Les Cannaday fellow to see what he would need on my end to make them easy to cover. Like I say, I am just tossing this around right now.

Ok guys, before you guys start using that "search" word hear me out. I bought my 72 240 a while back and it is missing the right side door panel completely so I was searching around trying to find one and getting really discouraged when I couldn't find any new replacements (when I say new I mean manufactured in the past few years not NOS) that didn't cost as much as the car. So I got to thinking (I am an engineer after all) of ways to make new ones. I thought of fiberglass, fiberboard and various other materials. Making them in this manner would be fairly economical for making one but that doesn't help out the Z crowd... My thought is to have some thermoformed (plastic) to match the shape of the old ones. I know its not original but I think it would be functional and look original. I found a place here in town that has the capability and am waiting on correspondence with them to determine cost. So my questions for you guys are: 1. Is there any reason the top metal part of the panel couldn't be molded to the rest of the panel as one piece? 2. If I were to get this rolling is there enough call for them to justify mass production? I am going to post this on another Z forum and am just trying to get a feel for the market. I am not wanting to become a millionaire from this, just want to better the Zed community. Justin

Problem Solved!! I did a throttle chop when it cut out and pulled over and removed a plug, it showed extreme lean. I then checked fuel pressure again which was ok, checked volume and found it took 10 cycles of the key to get about half a 20oz bottle of fuel, took off fuel line behind the damper to eliminate it and still very little flow, removed pump and had a great siphoning effect from the pickup in the tank, replaced the fuel pump and all is well. I can now fill a 20oz bottle in a few cycles of the key and no more cutting out. A note to self, always check volume as well as pressure. Thanks for the help guys (and gals). Justin

I eliminated a couple things yesterday, I pulled the exhaust down from the manifold and drove it thinking it was the catalytic converter, it still did the same thing. It has been getting a little worse too, now it won't run up past 2500. I could tell one thing with the exhaust off, when it reaches its limit the exhaust noise quits so I am thinking it is shutting spark off for some reason. I also pulled the AFM to take a look at it, it appears to be fine (didn't check as per FSM), I pulled the cover and it didn't have any corrosion at all. I checked the connector on the temperature sending unit, it looked fine. Keep the ideas coming please!

Great thread!! I didn't find much in my 72 240 when I bought it, perhaps it all fell through the floorboards... Did find a few trim pieces and a matchbook from a hotel in the cubbies. My 82 280ZX I found the usual stuff, gum wrappers, a chewed up pencil, pen caps, unreadable receipts, a short string of fake pearls and a Bernina sewing machine press foot. Every time I clean it I find something else, usually more seat stuffing material (horse hair like stuff). Keep em rollin guys. Justin

I will give the connector a look-see. I know it is old and brittle. Thanks!

Z Babe, the car ran just fine previously and has had no recent modifications or work done to it. I have been driving the car as normal since the trip when it started the surging and it seemed to be running ok except for a surge on occasion. Last night it started with the surging (more like cutting out) again and wouldn't rev over 3500. It would run up to 3500 and wouldn't take any more throttle after that, I could coax it up with very slight throttle increase but not more than 200 or 250 rpm. If I rev the engine in neutral or with the clutch down it revs to 5500 easily. I experimented a little by accelerating in 1st through 3rd and it won't rev past 3500, just stops pulling, no pops, no backfires, just stutters and stops pulling. So what do you guys think? Thanks

So I recently took a two hour trip with my NA 82 280ZX and it developed a surge in it about half way through the trip. It started as just a stutter running at 80 and progressively got worse, by the time I got to my destination it would barely maintain 60 up hills and buck when accelerating. I checked fuel filter and pump pressure and didn't find anything wrong, free flowing through the filter and had 34lbs running jumping to 40 when I open the throttle. On my return trip the car would maintain 80 but surge on the hills. Any ideas what would be causing this? My definition of a surge in this case is a slight drop in RPM (maybe 50-75 rpm) and a lack of power. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Thanks Madkaw, I am going to stop by a local upholstery place today and pick up some material and give it a shot. Maybe they will have some other tricks they can tell me so I can pass them on to you guys Justin

I know this thread is fairly old but I am about to tackle the same job on my 82 ZX 2+2. Fabulous work Madkaw, looks great! I have done some interior work but never vinyl forming, do you have any tips or maybe a link to a site that has a how-to? Thanks

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Justin

Hi guys, Did a search but didn't find much about this subject. I am curious how many different ratios differentials came in a 72 240 with a 4 speed? Looking in the haynes manual it shows 3.9 as the only one available. Is this true? Thanks, Justin

Thanks for the inspiration Dogma420! I just did this on my 240 this past weekend. Made a few changes though. Instead of soldering on a cap on the vent line on the left side I used a copper pipe cap that fit snugly inside a short piece of 5/8 fuel line, clamped it in place. On the upper end of the vent hose where it connects to the fuel filler neck I used a barbed PVC fitting that was 3/4 inch on one side and 5/8 inch on the other, I trimmed off a couple of the barbes to make it similar in length to the old white plastic tube, this works perfectly and you can't even see it when its all together. The other differnce from the thread above is I didn't use the copper 180 degree fitting compilation, I merely left quite a bit of slack in the vent line so it made a nice loop with a rather large radius. Seemed to have plenty of room for a nice kink free loop. So far it has been working well, fuel fumes in the cabin appear to be at much more tolerable levels. Thanks again, Justin

I just did this on my 240 this past weekend. Used the thread linked above for guidance but made a few changes. Instead of soldering on a cap on the vent line on the left side I used a copper pipe cap that fit snugly inside a short piece of 5/8 fuel line, clamped it in place. On the upper end of the vent hose where it connects to the fuel filler neck I used a barbed PVC fitting that was 3/4 inch on one side and 5/8 inch on the other, I trimmed off a couple of the barbes to make it similar in length to the old white plastic tube, this works perfectly and you can't even see it when its all together. The other differnce from the thread linked above is I didn't use the copper 180 degree fitting compilation, I merely left quite a bit of slack in the vent line so it made a nice loop with a rather large radius. So far it has been working well, fuel fumes in the cabin appear to be at much more tolerable levels.

Walter, It does snow in Wichita but they seldom use salt. In reality it probably won't be a daily driver but more of a fair weather car as I have a Cavalier that needs a head gasket, it will more than likely be the car I would drive in inclement weather. Thanks Justin

So I am going to acquire a 1979 280ZX Automatic in a couple weeks that needs some work. He says it hasn't run in about a year, needs fuel pump and sending unit etc. My question is about the automatics, are they decent or is it better to go for a manual version of the car? I am probably going to use it as a daily driver so no power adders or anything more than likely. I am pretty sure I am not going to get hurt on the price either way, I am sure I could part it out and get my money back I mean the alloy wheels have to be worth something right or the glass or something?? Thanks for your thoughts. Justin

Citjet, I believe it is the stock cam, haven't confirmed. 2 fast 2z, I will give those things a look see, .010 intake and .020 exhaust right? Thanks Justin

Hi guys, Finally got my carbs balanced (72 240 with SU's) but I can't seem to get a smooth idle. Trying for 750-800 rpm and get a rough labored idle, runs perfectly at 950-1000. Have fire to all the plugs, timing doesn't seem to affect it (as in cure the rough idle part). So, any recommendations on what to do? The intake water passages have been bypassed on this (wasn't me), would this cause my condition? I plan on hooking all that back up soon. Thanks, Justin

A straw also works well too. Just insert the straw to the bottom of the chamber and put your finger over the top and pull it out, the vacuum in the straw keeps the oil in the straw. Do that a couple times and soak up the rest with a good paper towel or rag. Makes filling them easy too. Justin

Walter, It does have a Fram on it currently, I have never been a fan of them. I will swap it out for something else and see how it goes. Thanks

Hey guys, First things first, 72 240, on startup after sitting for a few hours I get this knocking sound for approximately 4 seconds. It sounds to me like the knock you get from the oil pump when you change the oil in a small block chevy as it fills the oil filter. I just bought the car and the PO changed the oil just before I got it, I don't know what weight he put back in it. It holds about 45-55psi going down the road and about 10psi after an extended idle (about 5-10 minutes). I am going to do an oil change again and maybe go with 15-50 or 10-30 and see if that helps. My question is do the oil pumps in these engines have a check valve to keep some oil at the pump? Also, is oil pump replacement difficult on these engines, looks like pull the distributer with everything at #1 TDC and pull the pump right? Thanks in advance. Justin

Thanks for the warm welcomes guys I plan on taking lots of pictures during the process of bringing this car back to a presentable condition, right now I am just trying to learn about the car and what the previous owners have unhooked and or neglected. Take the heater/ac controls, I pulled off that panel and to my surprise none of it was hooked up, no wires, no cables, nothing. No wonder nothing seemed to work... Bonzi, thats a lot of Nissans! If you are ever headed this way let me know, maybe we can get together. The girlfriend and I are always out cruising around so maybe after a while when I trust the car we will head out to Kingman and let you know.

Ok guys, thought I would report back to you. I found the 2-way check valve to the left of the air cleaner housing, I took it off and when I pulled the line off that goes to the tank it pulled in air The check valve did not operate when I blew/sucked directly on the valve, a little bit of carb cleaner and a few minutes later the check balls were working as intended. I went for a drive and everything works just fine now Now I just need to work out the stumble just off idle when under load... Oh, I have found all the associated wiring for the fuel pump behind the dash and at the tank, I will be installing a 20A circuit breaker instead of a fuse and solder the feed wire onto the black/white wire at the back of the fuse panel, you guys have any other recommendations?? Like maybe a relay that uses the power from the black/white wire to make and the feed wire would be the big white wire from the starter? Thanks for all your help guys, it is much appreciated! Justin

CitJet, fuel pump pressure is fine, when it dies there is no fuel at the pump up front, I can either take the cap off the tank and it will pull in air OR I can take the suction line off the elec fuel pump and it will pull air back to the tank from there. BTW, I like your avatar and handle, I work for Cessna. Weasel, carbs are stock round top SU's, I am thinking as soon as I get the tank to vent correctly the electric fuel pump won't be necessary. So where does the vent line connect up near the carbs? To the air cleaner housing? Smog system? Thanks Justin

Thanks Carl, so from the picture i am guessing the vent line ends up near the smog pump on the left side of the car? My smog system is inoperable so I guess if it were to be plugged it would be somewhere around there or should I look at the purge tank first? Thanks Justin