Dreamzz

Only marks , numbers, I found on the relay were on the outside case. See picture below maybe someone can decifer if they state rating of relay. For now I have removed coil/relay and may just solder new relay to existing wires keeping relay inside original case and therfore keeping the original wire harness. I think it will fit inside original case. It would still look stock. Now just have to figure out which wires to solder to which pins of new relay. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Finally got a chance to get back in the garage today. Thanks for everybody's input/posts. I am attaching some more photos of brake light check relay since mine is already opened and on the work bench. Take notice of non insulated small wires from the inside terminals. I didn't even see these at first. They attach from inside terminals to actual coil. From the underside main wire harness yellow and black are connected to these terminals with small non insulated wires. So from terminal fed by black wire you have small non insulated wire going to coil and then another small black wire going to top of actuator. This is beyond my electrical knowledge but pictures may help in understanding. I have ordered a new 12 VDC 5 pin relay and hope to install next week. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I opened the relay to verify. It appears crispy. Then with car idling and with brake light relay plugged in with the new fused 12v ignition switched source from added fuse block i pushed closed the relay contact and my brake light goes out. Let go and it comes back on. Leads me to believe relay is bad or not actuating. I may be wrong but I was under the understanding that the pre swap alternator source or the "N" output of the alternator drives the charge lamp and brake relay at less than 12 volts. Again I may be wrong but brake warning light relays in 76 are designed to actuate at less than full alternator output. I don't want to pull power source from fuel pump which now also has its own new fused ignition source and is finally holding fuel pressure/fuel level in the triple carb set up I am now running. I am thinking my solution would be a new relay capable of actuating with a full 12 volts without burning up. Was looking for some suggested relays like the one in this post. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So can you provide an update? Is relay still working? I need an option for a less sensitive relay. I did the common zx 60 amp alternator upgrade on my 8/75 280z and due to the required wiring or jumping of the voltage regulator wires the brake light relay was slowly draining my battery. As what I thought would be a solution i ran a new 12v ignition source cicuit from the the stand alone fuse block I installed which must have been to much for the relay....fried it. Leaving me searching for a new relay. Probably could just unplug it but I would like to keep everything on the car working not to mention the safety feature of the brake warning light. Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk

They were trying to fit the old style Fujitsubo exhaust..... With "H" style resonator .... to a left hand drive 240z. Not sure what differential? In this case the differential didn't seem to be the cause of poor fitment like it was for me running a R200 differential. Thus Supporting my original post at the beginning of this thread that While it's a well crafted and quality made exhaust system with beautiful welds the fitment needs improvement. Hopefully one of the reasons for the new version. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have to chime back in on this post. Anyone watch JDM Legends on Velocity Channel and notice the exhaust fitment issues on the z. Yes....Fujitsubo Legalis twin exhaust. Similiar issues to what I posted in the beginning of this thread. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

There is two sets on eBay as of today 8/19/2017 Starting bid is $899 Ouch! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Check jdm-car parts .com They had and may still have a nos oem set.$$$$ Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

They come up on eBay frequently but going price is $800-1200. I paid $850 for a set last year . Good luck on your search. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just looking for some insight. I am running the common zx 60amp alternator upgrade which we all know is not known for producing low idle amps. I have added accessories such as electric fan, electronic ignition,etc and at idle my volts drop down to around 12volts and my charge light comes on suggesting low charge from alternator. Causing problems as a result. Car will almost stall. When revving motor or driving therfore at higher rpm the light goes out and volt meter shows the needed 14 volts? My optima battery is new and in good working condition. Connections are clean of any oxidation etc. New larger gauge battery cables,etc. My thinking was I need an alternator that produces more low rpm/idle volts. So this alternator sounds like it does just that. Not sure what set up your running but does this alternator provide the low rpm amps as claimed,etc. Any insight or advice appreciated. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Datsun Spirit builds some wicked responsive high revving motors. Eiji is a true enthusiast and very professional to deal with . Really pays attention to detail. I Just got back on the road with Datsun Spirits " stage 3" build in January. Haven't had time on the dyno yet so no numbers but can vouch for 9000 rpm pulls in every gear if you like. Its really just ego after 8000rpm though. Motor really comes to life around 4000 rpm and pulls hard till around 7500 + rpm. Challenge becomes not leaning out and ignition. You might consider distributorless electronic ignition for tuning. See you live in Richmond,VA? Hope to see you on the road soon. Highway 711 is always fun for spirited driving. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just went to garage and took picture of how I fit the fujitsubo legalis system to my 75 280z with an R200 LSD. My car is what I and most would consider a resto mod. I have and will continue to have to customize things as I did when I chose an electronic direct fire ignition. Actions have reactions. I posted so others wouldn't expect a "plug and play" if they chose to go this route. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Now we are getting to the point. Lots to consider when buying a RHD JDM Fujitsubo exhaust system for a U.S. market z. And there is a lot of misleading information out there about fitment. And of course peiples different standards of fitment. In my case the headers cleared the common misconception of hitting the LHD steering shaft and mid exhaust section with resonator fit as good if not better on my 280z than on the 240z. Clearances problems are with differential and crossmember. In my case it didn't clear R200 LSD . Didn't clear on modified 240z with R200 differential from the abundant 250,000 280z beside my car at the reputable z car speciality shop my car was at either. Even on a bone stock US 240z differential support crossmember only has a small u shaped cut out to route the exhaust pipe... not twin pipes. In my opinion, especially on a zcar with lowered suspension the pipes hang low and are very visible from behind. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Wow Please read whole thread and previously mentioned posts. When you do you will see the old style fujitsubo exhaust had to have same modifications on a 240z as well as my 75 280z. As far as what fitment issues .... please see pics I previously posted. And all suppliers like whitehead performance state it fits 75 280z. Rhdjapan states 240z but told me it would fit especially considering the 280z has a wider Trans tunnel. Maybe people have different ideas of fitment. Was just sharing my experience amd advice (buyer beware)to help others. That is what I use this forum for. Happy ZRider Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile