cali260Z

:stupid:no pix are posted compadre:cool:

good luck with that in .............Latvia? i have a freind his name a Borat,..... I like you,i like sex!

offer him 600 and then go from there try to meet him@ 800 and drive her home;) but if you really really really want her and then go 900-100 but try to get to get her for 6-800 Good Luck

LOOKS LIKE GREAT SUCCESS:cool: went by the mechanic shop today Mechanic Mike's automotive ASE cert. 825 Andreason dr. Escondido 760 739-8147 Give him a call, good guy! checked out my system, and got rid of the R12 and did the suck down on her every thing looked good for a 35 year old system. i got her home i hooked it to the ester oil and added 1 can of freeze 12 (12 oz.) ( i have 2) popped the meat thermometer in the vent and ive 40deg. consistant @ the vent. Now i have NOT p/u the gauge set at harbor freight yet. and i dont want to OVER charge the system and blow a hose. should I add the other can or just hold off and let it ride??

i put that 1 in by accident;) she sure has BIG titties huh? i may be able to fanagle a evac from 1 of the local .....repair shops;) i could go to harbour freight and p/u a gauge set but i dont know what to look for in regareds to pressures but i may be able to run up your way next weekend Sat. i have a family party in SD and sunday i want to head up to OC for the car show sponsored by motorsport.com

Thanks Sblake, i knew you wouldnt steer me wrong, so i had some time today to jump on the net a googleded freeeeeze12..................... and BAM!! Johnsons freeze came up, it gave me a list of LOCAL peeps that are or were distributers, guy #1 stopped selling it cuz everyone that wanted it was in el cajon and he was in vista(40 mi away) not cost effective guy #2 is a mobile tool salesman guy and guess what???? he had some, a bunch of it !! so we met up in rancho bernardo shook hands and it was a done deal:cool: so long story short, 2 cans= 24 Oz plus a can of the oil 4oz.= 28 oz total 21 bucks no tax, the sticker under the hood says i need 30 oz. of r12 sooooo i should be golden;) Guide me along here sblake, should i evac the system and then add the oil then a can of the freeze12 or should i just "drop" it in as they say if i were to guess it would be far better to evac out the old oil add the new oil and then the freeze12. and dont change out that dryer? or leave it lie

thanks for the quik response sblake I'm going to take it over to the shop today after work.I would preffer to use the freeze12 but I can't find it down here in San diego but I will search a bit more.fromwhat I've read this far it's better to change out your dryer if you have switch over to 134a and then change the oil in the compressor. Then recharge the system. I will see what shop has to say today

sorry to have to dig up this thread, and im it will get not sure if it will here and get shuffled back to front of the line. Ok i did a search and this thread popped up, my 260Z has a/c but its not pumping ANY cold air. The compressor is in fact turning and the clutch is engaged. I can see in the sight glass there is "something" going thru the sys but im not sure how much. should i change out the dryer and put 134A? should i try to find Freeze12 and add that?? ( i dont think i need a 30 lb bottle tho) and then after doing all that how do i know that the compressor isnt shot? please help give some me a direction to go in with my 260 Thanks Kevin

yep i have the same shi#@ going on with my 260

thats a BIG project right there, but ive seen worse cars brought back to life too. i would take a pass on that 1 and keep looking

Dibs on your 280Z in 2011;) sblake01

god i hope so......... vista is a good o.s. but waaaaaaaaay to much on security it makes me mental sometimes when i want to download stuff

i have a 1974 260Z and i just did the same thing and it was really easy make sure you run as much fuel as you can jack up the back end and set jack stands up underneath drain the remaining fuel out of the tank disconnect the fuel feed the fuel return the fuel pump fuel gauge wires then behind the passenger side wheel well, remove the 4 screws (phillips head) that hold the splash plate in place and then you will be able to see the filler neck of the gas tank there will be 1 screw ....loosen that screw then put a bottle jack under the fuel tank. pump it up til it touches the fuel tank. Now loosen the saddle straps to let tank down from its craddle in car body now there should be 3 vent hoses on the tank 2 on the top and 1 at the very driver side end( it'll be a t 90 degree angle) you will have reach up in there and loosen those screws and diconnect those hose lines............ now in my case they were super brittle and brokewhen i dropped the tank right down. now cleaning can be as easy as taking to your local self serve car wash and blasting out the pick up tube or,...... take it in and get it boiled I hope this helps

yes, as a matter of fact i have a new laptop and i tryed to open the link again and this time it worked! i downloaded it, but i have windows vista so its kinda pain in keester to save

Yes you did SBlake01, but when i tryed to open it it was only a blank page:stupid: i will try it again. I fiddled with it again today, ended up finding a loose fuse and 2 burned out at the very end inside the glass. cleaned em up and changed out the burnt ones and just like magic, all the gauges came back and are working fine. but on a side note it looks like my alt. isnt putting out any power. so a new is on the short list. I went down to Dmv yesterday and took care of all the paperwork. (not such a nitemare after all) when the last owner registered the car the last listed the milage at 60xxx the car has now got 80962 according to the DMV as far as thier records show that is the original miles on that car and i am now the 3rd owner of that car. thats good right?

thanks guys will check the fuse block again today after work, i found the fusable link inside the fire wall ( small box with 2 jumper wires inside) disconnected them and re connected. when i did that the motor would die, then reconnect and it would start again, so i think those are ok. is there only 1 fusable link box on the firewall or i should be looking somewhere else for another 1? i dont have a book for this car yet so im kinda doing this blind

Hey everyone, as some of you may know, ive got 260Z, that has been sitting for a few years ...i pulled the fuel tank. cleaned the tank ,flushed the fuel line, new fuel pumps, new plugs, cap, and rotor etc.(elect. fuel pump is installed but NOT hooked to power, its there but just not hooked up) i cleaned the carbs today, and took it out for a spin it runs GREAT! but all of sudden....the gauges Tach, turn signals, fuel guage, temp, water temp, stopped working, i checked the fuse block and all the fuses seem to be fine. the car runs great head lites work, brakes lites work fine wow, im kinda stumped im good at turning the wrenches but not so good at the electrical. any advice would be great i know im not the 1st to have this happen:stupid:

thats what it sounds like to me too,the wires may crossed. but then again it should start and RUN like crap misfire sputter and fart......... you have spark,and it turns over fine? i know this sounds dumb but are you sure you got fuel ? keep us posted on this please i am curious as to why its not starting

here she is sitting out front with some new chanclas"

Thanks Guys SHE LIVES! Arne, Great work on that schematic, Sblake01, Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. and its running very well

thanks a bunch Arne I will be to sure to go the over scematics tonight to determin the best route to take.I would Prefer to stay OG the way it was designed

heere ya go! have a few more

heres a few more pix

pix here ya go! please give me some input

ok the tank has been removed, cleaned, and is drying. now the HUGE problem that i have found, is it looks like there are 2 vent tubes @ the top of the tank that run into the hatch area they are braided lines and are OG they are completely rotted away and crushed. I can see no way to change out these lines that run up into the carbody without cutting into the hatch area Can these lines be capped off? can these lines be rerouted to vent somewhere else ? here are a few pix