emccallum

Steve, thanks. It's all coming back to me. I recall pulling the red wire out of its connector, so I left it attached to the fuse to remind me. It seems there are three fuses back there. I have a 72 radio that has all the connectors. Its not as bad as it looks! Thanks again. ernest

Looks to me like it is for the rear defroster, if that is where the plug in the bottom right of the picture goes. The wiring diagram I am using isn't showing the defroster circuit.

Blue. I found this picture in a folder at work. You can see both fuse holders, I emphasized with black arrows (not very visible). I will get better pics tonight. The fuse on the left, as I recall comes out of the harness and goes back in. The other one appears to be for the radio.

My hunch is that it may be related to the electric antenna.

I am in the process of going through my wiring harness that is removed from the car. In the area of the radio I have 2 fuse holders. Both appear factory. One is obviously for the radio, but the other one comes out of the main harness and then goes back in. I searched the wiring diagram and I do not see it mentioned. Could it have something to do with the fuel pump? I dont have an electric pump, but I know the wiring is there and has a terminal in the radio area. I am at work, so I can get some pictures tonight. Thanks.

Some updates. I got the rear struts all finished. I had to get a machine shop to chase the threads on one gland nut. Scored a nice hood and hatch from Datsun rescue. Adam is a super nice guy, and I am glad to see a younger generation interested in the z cars. Seats and bumpers ready to go. Aftermarket rubber is junk, and luckily I had some very good used rubber and some NOS stuff, so most of it is OEM. Next up I am going to get started on the wiring harnesses. They don't seem to be in bad shape. Fortunately, they weren't hacked up a lot, or eaten by mice.

Way back in my teens (early 80's) I installed a "slalom" cam in my 240. Super strong from 4k and up but everything else sucked. I was always adjusting timing/carb/idle and never found the sweet spot. I finally pulled it out and went back stock. Lesson learned. As Jarvo said, if its got a hot cam, best of luck, as a lot of variables must be addressed to get it right.

Once you remove the screw that holds the gauge in place, you should have enough slack to give you a little better access. Those boots can be stiff and tough to release after 45 years

Good points Dutch, I used some clear on the new holes. I am not 100% satisfied with the aftermarket rubber on the bumperettes. May end up going with OEM or work some more on them. The other rubber (OEM) fits pretty good.

Well its possible to make a 72 bumper out of a 73. Drilled new holes in the bumper to move the bumperettes inboard. Luckily I had an old bumper to use for measuring. Drilling into fresh chrome was a measure ten times, walk away, measure ten more times, drill once job.

This is what it looks like from the rear. Make sure you disconnect the battery. If you zoom in you can see the one bolt that holds each gauge in place. HTH

So, the cars without bumperettes are mere base models when compared to the more upscale well optioned models. 🤣

I am a little weird and like the bumperette look. Funny, I like the skinny BMW euro bumpers of the 80's compared to the large USA bumpers, but not on the z.

Yes, I think you are correct. Thanks for the reply. I just flipped through the parts diagrams and it seems they have the same bumperettes but different center bumper sections and rubber. My car is 3/72 so it should have the bumperettes more inboard. Decisions, decisions. I wish I would have noticed this before chrome. I have a spare bumper, hopefully its an early one so I can use it for measuring or just rechrome the center.

I sent my 72 bumpers off to be re-chromed. I got them back and they look very nice. I had a NOS set of rear bumper rubber strips. They are too long. When I look at pictures I see two different positions for the bumper guards. Some cars have them in line with the back up lights and some have the guards just about over the exhaust. Mine are just over the exhaust. In all my z years I have never noticed this. I know you guys know all about this! Please teach me. Here are two examples I found online. I could cut the rubber shorter, or possibly change the position of the guards. It seems the smaller guards are farther out, and the ones in line with the back up lights look larger (or that may just be the pictures). I want to make the car as close as possible to original. I have no clue if the bumper on my 72 is original or a replacement. I only know it's been on it since 1982.

look great. Prep is the key.

Thanks for the tips guys. I went ahead and ordered the gaskets, hopefully the screws come out easily and I dont have to rob the parts car.

I am debating whether or not to take apart the quarter windows and replace the inner glass seal. They appear ok, but are very hard and dry. I dont see that OEM seals are available and I am wondering if others have any experience with the seals that motorsport sells for the quarter window. I hate to tear it apart, take a chance on messing up the trim, and the new seals are a crappy fit. Outer seals are toast. Thanks!

Yep, sounds like that is the solution. I still scratch my chin trying to decipher the invoice as to what you purchased based on the applications listed. I remember many, many years ago we swapped a 280 clutch and it didnt work. The problem had something to do with it being a 2+2 clutch. I was a teen at the time, and dont recall the exact details, except that Dad wasn't happy with the parts place. That was probably close to 40 years ago! If you remove the slave and there is still pressure on the arm, something aint right. Really isnt that hard to drop the tranny. Post up what you find!

Just went on the site. Way better than the old site! I like the way you choose your year and it only shows items for your year. You dont have to scroll through 510 or 280zx parts.

Reach down and grab the pedal. When you push it with your hand it should have some free play before you feel the pedal touch the master cylinder rod. If you press the pedal and it is instantly "hard" then you dont have any free play. That would be like driving with your foot on the clutch pedal. Free play ensures that the master has no pressure on it and allows the clutch to fully engage. You should be able to adjust the free play under the dash on the master. It looks like your slave cylinder is non adjustable so you may need to adjust the master. Maybe check the service manual for proper amount and a visual of how to adjust.

Do you have play at the top of the clutch pedal? If not, that measurement is worthless as the clutch isnt moving its full amount.

I restored my last Z in the late 90's and dealt with poor fitting aftermarket door seals. Same issue 25 years later.....except OEM is NLA!

Please post up what you find. I have been putting off buying door seals as I cant decide what direction to go. My car is still in pieces, but I rebuilt the hinges, they had a lot of slop in them. Hopefully that will help.

Do you have some free play at the top of the clutch pedal?