emccallum

That is quite the challenge. I just found out he lives in my town! Small world. I reached out to him on FB.

Cant see what kind of mechanical pump you have, but it is possible to rebuild the original ones with quality parts. I ran a l28 block e31 head with a mechanical pump years ago. I only recall hard starts when really hot or if it had been sitting a long time.

I probably have an eccentric laying around if you need one. Just PM me.

I have no clue. I bought some engine parts from california datsun, had a little trouble, but nothing too bad. Feel lucky now.

Wintergreen is an essential oil. What it is essential for, I don't have a clue. I think it's used in homeopathic medicine. Strong smell. Maybe it will keep exhaust smell at bay!

If you are replacing that, then you have some serious rust. I wish they made a front fender, I bet they could sell more fenders than that piece.

On one of my 240s I did something similar to #2. It was an entire rear panel that replaced the tail light panel. It had speaker enclosures. Not sure if those are still available, but could be built, and easy to go back to stock. Similar to this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403018147845?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=403018147845&targetid=1645685073528&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9010611&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073528&abcId=9300841&merchantid=8548804&gclid=CjwKCAiAp7GcBhA0EiwA9U0mtuKUOjhgMKfNzNUiXwsU4xiTmEFDTh4LNWGVpR8nzG8pazHDnlVdXRoC6S8QAvD_BwE

I just replaced both my lower quarters this weekend with patch panels. One inner was in rough shape and I ended up fabricting a patch. Once you open it up, you understand why they all rusted!

I tried to source a replacement for the boots on the fuel sender. I found 240rubber has them but I had just placed an order with Steve and figured I would wait until later to add the boots with a final order. Mine were hard as a rock. I decided to give refreshing the rubber a try. I used alcohol and wintergreen 3:1. I heated them up a couple of times with a heat gun and let them soak for about a day and a half. I was shocked at how flexible they got. Added some new connectors and that part of the harness is complete. I bought extra connectors from repair connectors if anyone needs some just shoot me a pm and I will send you some.

Steve, thanks. It's all coming back to me. I recall pulling the red wire out of its connector, so I left it attached to the fuse to remind me. It seems there are three fuses back there. I have a 72 radio that has all the connectors. Its not as bad as it looks! Thanks again. ernest

Looks to me like it is for the rear defroster, if that is where the plug in the bottom right of the picture goes. The wiring diagram I am using isn't showing the defroster circuit.

Blue. I found this picture in a folder at work. You can see both fuse holders, I emphasized with black arrows (not very visible). I will get better pics tonight. The fuse on the left, as I recall comes out of the harness and goes back in. The other one appears to be for the radio.

My hunch is that it may be related to the electric antenna.

I am in the process of going through my wiring harness that is removed from the car. In the area of the radio I have 2 fuse holders. Both appear factory. One is obviously for the radio, but the other one comes out of the main harness and then goes back in. I searched the wiring diagram and I do not see it mentioned. Could it have something to do with the fuel pump? I dont have an electric pump, but I know the wiring is there and has a terminal in the radio area. I am at work, so I can get some pictures tonight. Thanks.

Some updates. I got the rear struts all finished. I had to get a machine shop to chase the threads on one gland nut. Scored a nice hood and hatch from Datsun rescue. Adam is a super nice guy, and I am glad to see a younger generation interested in the z cars. Seats and bumpers ready to go. Aftermarket rubber is junk, and luckily I had some very good used rubber and some NOS stuff, so most of it is OEM. Next up I am going to get started on the wiring harnesses. They don't seem to be in bad shape. Fortunately, they weren't hacked up a lot, or eaten by mice.

Way back in my teens (early 80's) I installed a "slalom" cam in my 240. Super strong from 4k and up but everything else sucked. I was always adjusting timing/carb/idle and never found the sweet spot. I finally pulled it out and went back stock. Lesson learned. As Jarvo said, if its got a hot cam, best of luck, as a lot of variables must be addressed to get it right.

Once you remove the screw that holds the gauge in place, you should have enough slack to give you a little better access. Those boots can be stiff and tough to release after 45 years

Good points Dutch, I used some clear on the new holes. I am not 100% satisfied with the aftermarket rubber on the bumperettes. May end up going with OEM or work some more on them. The other rubber (OEM) fits pretty good.

Well its possible to make a 72 bumper out of a 73. Drilled new holes in the bumper to move the bumperettes inboard. Luckily I had an old bumper to use for measuring. Drilling into fresh chrome was a measure ten times, walk away, measure ten more times, drill once job.

This is what it looks like from the rear. Make sure you disconnect the battery. If you zoom in you can see the one bolt that holds each gauge in place. HTH

So, the cars without bumperettes are mere base models when compared to the more upscale well optioned models. 🤣

I am a little weird and like the bumperette look. Funny, I like the skinny BMW euro bumpers of the 80's compared to the large USA bumpers, but not on the z.

Yes, I think you are correct. Thanks for the reply. I just flipped through the parts diagrams and it seems they have the same bumperettes but different center bumper sections and rubber. My car is 3/72 so it should have the bumperettes more inboard. Decisions, decisions. I wish I would have noticed this before chrome. I have a spare bumper, hopefully its an early one so I can use it for measuring or just rechrome the center.

I sent my 72 bumpers off to be re-chromed. I got them back and they look very nice. I had a NOS set of rear bumper rubber strips. They are too long. When I look at pictures I see two different positions for the bumper guards. Some cars have them in line with the back up lights and some have the guards just about over the exhaust. Mine are just over the exhaust. In all my z years I have never noticed this. I know you guys know all about this! Please teach me. Here are two examples I found online. I could cut the rubber shorter, or possibly change the position of the guards. It seems the smaller guards are farther out, and the ones in line with the back up lights look larger (or that may just be the pictures). I want to make the car as close as possible to original. I have no clue if the bumper on my 72 is original or a replacement. I only know it's been on it since 1982.

look great. Prep is the key.