emccallum

Contact Adam at Datsun Rescue. He may have one. https://datsunrescue.bigcartel.com/product/s1-head-liner

I would guess that is just a bad picture, unless he changed vendors from a couple of years ago. Call and ask, but mine has a slightly roughened texture. Very pleased with everything I bought from Mike. Here is the one I got from him close up:

If you are like me, the only reason you remembered that you had it was because you saw it when yo threw it away! I will admit I threw one away this weekend that had been folded in a square and looked pretty dry and rough. It was from a 280. Must be clean up shop time of year. The aftermarket one I used was really nice. Came from Mike at Banzai.

Pretty sure I still have my original just from the trans tunnel and under the seats that I used to cut mine. Trans tunnel was the only one that was really unique. I did buy one precut from zeddsaver, but I wasnt happy with it and ended up making one. I used the rear deck carpet as the guide to cut the jute. Let me know if you want any of it.

Thanks Cantechz. That makes sense. all the repro panels I see do not have the extra air flow vents. The black panel in my picture must be for an early 240 with the plastic vapor tank. Anyone need one :)?

My car is a 3/72. Originally brown with brown interior. I cahnged the interior to black and have some questions. 1. Rear plastic quarter panels that came out of the car had speaker vents and side emblem vent holes. It had a metal vapor tank. What year did the extra vents start? The black panel in the picture is one I picked up before I knew the differences. It wont fit because of the metal vapor tank. Pretty sure my panels were original, but...... 2. My original plastic rear light panel has the removable squares that are bulging, like what I remember from a 260 (see picture). It is brown, so I am thinking it is original. Did 240's all have the flat part on the rear tailight plastic panel? Maybe someone swapped out all the interior panels from a later car at some point? That would be weird. Yes, that IS carpet glued to the panels!! Impressive how many differences there are between the 240's over the years. It reminds me of identical twins. They are hard to tell apart until you get to know them, then then are totally different!

I bought a OEM filler hose from ebay last year that shipped from Japan. Came in factory bag. $130 shipped!

The jute I bought is 36" wide which puts it just at the storage hatches. Should work perfect. I am going to cut two small pieces to go over the hatches. Thanks for the reply.

I bought a carpet kit from Chester and Herod. It came with jute for the floormats. I put jute under the seat like it had originally, but I did not know if the hatch had jute originally. I was thinking of putting jute under the hatch carpet for sound and gluing it to the carpet. I was wondering what others have done. Thanks

It was late! Looked this morning and my passenger window is oem and driver is aftermarket. Is the glass itself different or just the metal bottom part. Can't you just swap the bottom out ? I think I must be reading this wrong.

My parts car is a 72 and both windows are intact. Not positive the glass is oem. Let me know what you need.

Not sure if this may help your window issue, but the door card holds the window out and the outer belt moulding/roller holds it in. If they all arent installed it may bind. When I did mine, I would use my fingers to act as the door card. Also, look at the window when it is almost all the way up, to adjust the frame so it seats evenly. Do you have the rubber stop at the bottom of the door installed?

When you adjust the plastic part on the interior latch rod make sure you have enough play on the latch for when you put the door card on. If its too tight and the latch isnt completely releasing the lock will not work. I tightened mine up to take all the play out of the interior handle and when I put the door card on the lock wouldn't work......and it all had to come apart. Hope that makes sense. Good thing you installed the mirror before the glass. Its a pain to get on with the glass in place. Pro tip......The clips that hold the door card in place go opposite the little notch on the door card. 😀

Car is looking great! Good point on the new dovetails. Mine were the same way. If you dont open up the holes or use different screws the bolt will hit the metal on the striker(at lesst mine did). I guess the smaller hole would be stronger and less likely to crack, like all the originals I have seen, but you cant use the oem screws. I opened mine up too, as I like oem screws and I rebuilt my hinges, so it doesnt sag as much as it used too. I dont think Nissan expected these cars to be on the road this long!

The ones I got seem to work ok, but I dont have much use on them as I am still building the car!

I bought some like that on amazon. I used them in a few places and parted some out to make up some with oe bolts. Cant beat the price.

looking great! Congratulations on getting it back on the road.

I found this picture on the site from a post by @Mikes Z car back in 2016. This is for an early z but according to the parts diagram its the same for later cars. Know that I know what it looks like I should be able to bend one.....as wire bending is what I do for a living! One of the round tabs on my console was broken. I was able to drill it out and I tapped in a bolt about the same size with the head cut off. I think it was an m6x .8. Worked great.

If you know someone with a vapor blasting cabinet, they will clean up very nice. Check completed items on ebay to see what they sell for. Its getting hard to find decent anything for z cars!

On the center console (1972) I remember there being a spring that helps open and close this panel. Does anyone have a picture of the spring that I could use to make one? I am guessing it looks similar to the ones in the heater box. Thanks. Pict attached is just one from the web.

Body filler must be very expensive where he lives! 🤣

@Richie G , I am going to have to give the Gordon Glass stuff a try. Thanks for posting it.

I agree, I wouldn't use it on a primary large seal. The outer hatch seal (non oem) has a small stiff channel tbat fits over the metal lip. It's hard for me to be that precise with 3m. I used it for the inspection lid rubber piece too. As for the micro brushes, I just use them so I don't cut the bottle and chance having it dry up.

I would have gone with 37 :).

Not trying to pile on, but my experiences with both Koni and Bilstein over many years has been mixed. Their directions suck, hardware is usually universal and may or may not be needed or fit (mostly speaking of boots), and my last z was just too stiff for my liking with Bilstein and poly bushings. I went with KYB and stock bushings on my current build. Its obvious from the work you have done on this build that you know how to thread on a nut!