emccallum

Maybe call Koni and plead your case but I wouldn't expect much from them. Its done, replace and move on. Dont let it ruin the day, as the car looks amazing so far!

For nice looking wiper system. I just cleaned mine up and greased it. I do remember having one fastener different! I thought the plater mixed them up and sourced a matching hex bolt! I only had one sleeve on the altenator. The strut insert usually has a place for an allen wrench at the top to hold the insert from turning. You need a special "cutout" socket to tighten as you hold the insert. I would be impressed if you actually stripped the threads on the insert as the nut is usually a softer metal and you may be seeing the remnants of the nut on the threads. Oil and chase it and try a new nut. At this point it isn't that much effort to remove the strut. Lately, I have become very good at doing stuff multiple times 🙂 This is what the sockets look like, just make sure the insert doesnt require some funky tool. They make a set that has all the various types for the insert too: https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Socket-Suspension-Spreader-Absorber/dp/B09QLZJWNF/ref=asc_df_B09QLZJWNF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647755312451&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16445937037883011191&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025566&hvtargid=pla-1966980073382&mcid=e98a1b3594b9387ebc33b5bd169ab619&th=1

In the process of putting my car back together. I have always been a big fan of 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. I picked up some of this stuff on amazon and really like it for places that the 3M may get messy. Small pieces like the outer hatch seal or where the window channel curves and wants to fold in. I use these little micro brushes and just hold it together for 20 seconds or so. It is cyanoacrylate, but has a better consistency than regular super glue and is black.

I have this alternator that I believe is original from a 2/71 my note says bad diodes. It has a little sleeve that I zip tied to it. If you are interested in the sleeve or the whole alternator let me know. I dont see me ever needing it.

impressive!

I may have run into that as well, adding to my confusion. I just remember taking them apart a couple of times before I got it right....I mean correct 🙂

Do you have NOS wheel cylinders for both sides? If not, I recall the only aftermarket ones have the inlet in a different place and you have to use another brake line. I "think" the wheel cylinders are the same but the hardware is L & R to allow the pads to adjust with the parking brake. I had to mix and match some old hardware with a new cylinder to get them right. It was a head scratcher at first because I didnt know, what I didnt know! Pretty sure the arms were labeled L&R.

I got 4 of these. Threads don't look great but may be able to chase them. There yours if you want them

I have bought a lot from Belmetric. I found the best way to search for JIS stuff is to type JIS into their searchbar. That brings them all up. I got a bunch of these that came in handy in lots of places: https://belmetric.com/m5-pan-phillips-sems-screw-flat-lock-washer-steel-yellow-zinc/

I may have some of these laying around or on my parts car if you need them. Just let me know.

Pretty sure the bolt does not have a number on it. If someone else doesnt post up, I will be working on my car Saturday and can pull that bolt and get you some measurements.

I bought my carpets earlier this year from Chester and herod. Pleased with the quality. I called Jim at 760 877 3403 to order. Edit: It was 8/22 when I bought mine! Time flies.

Just a thought....Are they balanced at driving rpms? Run it up to 2-3k rpms and check balance with a unisyn, maybe one is opening more than the other at speed.

Now that you seem to have good spark, you may want to consider backing up to the basics. Valve adjustment, timing, then mixture/balance. Not sure what fuel you have there, but our current 87 octane is garbage. My car runs way better on premium (non ethanol).

It probably would get even worse when it heats up. I too didn't pack much in it. I would think its mostly for corrosion control.

According to this video spacers go in before the spring. Start at 12:15. HTH

This video may help you on the steering rack: As for the oil in the strut I have always used just plain motor oil.

Same here, actually the first time I have ever heard of using antifreeze. I have always added some oil, not for heat dissipation but because I have had inserts that were rusted so much I never got them removed. The shock companies instructions always suck. One set of instructions for every shock they have ever made! Once you tighten the gland nut make certain the insert has no vertical play.

This diagram illustrates the importance of float level adjustment. The float level determines the level of the fuel in the jet and thats really important in tuning. If SU would have given us a sight glass on the carb bowl we would have a lot less to argue about online 🤣

Could be bad gas from sitting.

Yep, my compression numbers were good but oil rings were bad. Fouled plugs and lots of smoke. You have to know that ignition is good and carbs arent too rich. Does it smoke?

I cant recall all of the tests you have done. FWIW, I had a z that was running poorly and after doing a bunch of stuff, it turned out that the dizzy shaft/bushing was worn and causing the point gap and rotor to float around. Easy enough to check for shaft play.

Beautiful!

Yes. Seem to be good quality. https://www.thezstore.com/product/3354/fiberglass-headlight-case-right-70-78-240z-260z-280z

I went with S30world tank as mine was is very rough condition. It was a perfect fit, one of the best aftermarket items I have purchased.