emccallum

Got it fixed. Sometimes you need to just walk away for a while. Removed the hub to recheck the races. Then noticed the hub had a piece of the dust shield bent under it, keeping it from seating all the way. That made perfect sense because I had to loosen the hub nut more than the 60 degrees that the manual states to get the hub to turn free. It never quite felt right.

Thanks Zkars for the link. The hub in question is scalloped. One side went together just fine, so something is different here. Both rotors are new, and measure the same. I have spare parts, so I am going to swap things around and see if I can come up with the answer. Originally the car had a 280 front strut. I sourced a 240 strut (based on the orientation of the brake line tab). So, its possible something is bent or wrong with the strut assembly. Lots of variables that need to be sorted out! Luckily I have some other parts to work with.

I am having an issue with one of my front struts. The caliper is scraping the rotor. I am thinking the hub came off of a 280 and the strut assembly is a 240. Does anyone know if there is a difference between a 240 front hub and a 280 hub? Everything has been rebuilt and I have doubled checked the bearing races to make sure they are fully seated. It seems the hub needs to seat a little more on the spindle to allow the rotor to center in the caliper. Just wondering if anyone has come across this issue. I have a 240 parts car that I may pull the hub off and try a differrent hub. Thanks!

What parts for the antenna do you need? I have a few laying around, but no good masts, which I assume is the part you need.

Probably a month or so. To be honest, it is probably a blessing in disguise as it gives me plenty of time to do things multiple times. I just found some little plastic washers on Amazon for $8, so I get to work on the blinkers one more time. I will probably take you up on the rotisserie when get a firmer date for body work, if the offer is still good.

If i am unsure of a scammer, I ask them to send a unique photo of the item. Something like hold it in your left hand giving the middle finger. Always run any photo they send through google images. Sad there are so many scammers.

Pretty bored waiting on the body shop. I decided to clean up my front blinkers. They cleaned up nice. I ran the plastic housing through the vapor blaster on low psi, and it removed all the overspray. I wish I had taken a before picture. They were pretty rough.The screws were rusty, and got trashed removing them. I found this nice little package of stainless screws on amazon that matched pretty well. The longest one, isnt quite as long as the OEM, but seems to work fine. Just thought I would share the link in case others need some screws. For $10, it isnt worth my time to drive around town searching for screws. I was able to reuse most of the little plastic washers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HV8YZL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Thanks Jonathan, I had no way of trying to figure out the tap size. That was way bigger than anything I have. PC is tough stuff.

I got most everything back from powdercoating and started assembling the struts. New bearings, seals, KYB inserts and brake hardware. I ran into two issues. 1. Powdercoater must have dropped one rear strut and dinged the threads for the stut gland nut. Should have left the old gland nuts in the struts. I played with it for a while and a friend was over that was headed to a machine shop to get something done, so I handed it to him to drop off. I hope it can be chased, because I have a lot of time in the rear bearings! 2. On one front strut the caliper was barely scrapping the rotor on the outer edge. I thought that I didnt seat a bearing race completely, so I tore all back apart and races were fine. I tried another caliper, and it is the same, so I am thinking the rotor (Centric) is a little too thick. I noticed the other rotor appears out of round. I may have them turned or try a different brand. It just barely scrapes. Both rotors measure very close to the same dimensions. Weird. I also hooked up with 240 rubber and got some goodies in the mail today. Glad it worked out as his stuff looks nice and only took a couple of weeks once we got the order settled. I saw on BAT where a very nicely restored 73 240 sold for $88,888, so that justifies a few orders for me 🙂.

My 72 had a wrinkled undercoat, that was applied without the gas tank installed and I am pretty sure it was bare metal under it. We sandblasted it all off. I would doubt any dealer would have gone through the trouble to remove stuff to apply an undercoat. I think the answer is that undercoating may have varied from year to year as the cars rusted way, or our definitons of undercoating vary 🙂

Looks like a solid 240z, with a lot to like. Its a shame they didnt take an extra 30 minutes to cover the engine bay for overspray. How long does it take to remove the plastic intake vents and the washer bottle??

you are welcome. I couldnt figure out why I didnt have my usual 100 pictures, then I remembered I used that thread as my guide. Post up some pictures of your restoration......misery loves company 🙂

Here is a good thread I used

Ryals, I have a ton of heater box pictures. What are you looking for? Happy to post them. ernest

I can take some pictures when I get home, but its basically just an offset flat piece of metal. Should be able to find a pick online. I would think you could bend one pretty easily.

Marquis zinc plus in Dundalk, MD. Tabitha is who answers the phone and was very helpful. I could never get there website to run right, so I would just call them.

Did some reading last night on paint for the rear light surround and grill. After a couple of hours of interesting threads, I decided to go with Duplicolor dark shadow gray. The cap looked a little lighter than I thought it should be, but I trusted the forum and went with it. Once I saw it on the parts it was like being back in the 70's. Very close to what I remember. Going to use a clear matte over it. I have decided its good to be a gamecock fan (even though my kids go/went to Clemson) as there is no need to watch the entire game. Its usually over by half time 🙂 and I can get back to the shop.

That looks just like the knob that my dad had in his 77 280 when I was a kid.

This thread has made me rethink my engine restoration. I have old Nikki and Ampco fuel pumps. I believe both are the originals to 240s. After reading a bunch of threads I decided to order a NOS Nikki that according to others has all the same internals as the one for the 240. I will attempt to rebuild one of my old originals and do away with the made in china knock off.

Jim, Thank you for posting the follow up. It will be a while before I actually crank my rebuilt motor, but I just checked my parts list and I purchased a US Motor works fuel pump! Thanks for the heads up and glad you seem to have it sorted. ernest

View Advert 1972 240z exhaust heat riser Looking for a good condition heat riser to go on a stock manifold. Must be the two bolt variety. Thanks! Advertiser emccallum Date 08/21/2022 Price $25 Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240  

Charles, I will get a list together and give him another shout. Thanks.

I have ordered a good bit of stuff from Zcar depot. No issues, but I haven't had to contact them. Just placed a big order last night and it shipped today. @conedodger, 240zrubber has some very nice looking stuff that I would really like for my restoration. I have tried to contact him a couple of times and never got a reply. Too bad, as he is very close to me. With a lot of his stuff "out of stock" and no reply, I have been a bit hesitant to order anything.