emccallum

Thanks. I think it it coming together pretty nice. I am planning to keep the manifold "cooling" 🤣 intact unless it gives me an issue.

HAHA! It is. My brother put that on. Shouldn't ever trust an attorney. Thanks for the heads up, I guess I would have noticed eventually.

Some motor porn.

Please don't read this wrong. It is your car and you can do whatever you want to make yourself happy. IMO, that is a very nice, solid, unmolested example. Even with a "modified" driveline the car will not be very fast compared with a modern car. Why not go through the car and keep it all original? I have done the L28 with e31 head , turbos, and other variations in the past. Sure, it was fun, but I didnt really find them to be that much more fun than a stock 240. I just have an appreciation of the survivors, I guess because I am becoming one myself!

I just put one of my 240 struts together using the KYB stuff. I did just like you show in your picture. I figure when its under load it will be about right. I would have no problem just leaving them off.

Thanks Racer X. I have a two post lift, so I have some options and plenty of time to think about it!

Received some parts back from powdercoating. I started assembling some things as I wait for the body shop. I should get the motor back in the next week. We were waiting on the hardware to get plated, then realized the idiot who last worked on the motor did not stamp the crank and we had the wrong bearings. Searched high and low and finally found the right ones. I am thinking of assembling the motor and subframe including suspension then lowering the body on to it. I think that would be easier. Anyone else ever done it this way?

My tranny crossmember bushings were shot, so I pressed them out and read tons of posts on the OEM bushings being NLA. I have a couple of different x members from various years, so I figured I could get something to work. I chose to keep my original x member and make a set of poly bushings work. I ordered the black energy suspension bushings from one of the vendors. They are too big and too long for my style x member. I took them over to my brothers house and we put them on a lathe and turned them down to the right diameter and then shortened to metal sleeve and bushings to fit....Tight as a tick! One problem solved.....ten thousand more to go.

I went with the cheaper mevotech and they had the zerk fitting plus new hardware 🙂

Yep, rubber seals are tough. I pretty much have everything in my restoration settled except the major rubber. On several occasions I have gone down rabbit holes trying to figure out which ones to buy. One post says Vintage another PRP then some suggest Kia rubber. I think I am going to wait until the last minute and order, that way I can send them back it they are junk. From my experience if Mike (Banzai Motorworks) sells it, then its top tier. I guess thats the reason he doesn't sell door seals :). What kind of 911's? I bought an 87 911 Cab M491 last year that had been sitting for over 15 years! My first Porsche, super fun car. Looks like you got a really nice 240, jealous looking at all that solid metal!

Very nice find! Congratulations

Slow progress. Waiting on the body shop to get room to take in my car. I sent off a bunch of stuff to get plated and just got the stuff back. I thought they did a very nice job considering how rough the stuff was. I wet blasted and wire wheeled every nut bolt and washer. I think it was 43 lbs shipping! Engine rebuild should be able to get finished now that I have all the bolts and suspension should be back from powder coating any day. Marquis Zinc Plus in Dundalk MD. Talk to Tabitha, she kept everything sorted for me!

That works!

Air chisel has worked for me. Something about the vibration helps loosen them up. Of course heat and kroil oil will help too. I wouldn't worry as much about that nut as I would about the insert being rusted in the tube!

Thanks, I guess I was too young to remember that when watching my Dad/older brother work on z suspensions. By the time I got old enough the originals had already been replaced!

I use the term strut insert. If you have ever fought removing a rusted strut insert from the housing you will reconsider adding a small amount of oil/anti seize just to prevent rusting. I dont recall early z's using anything but an insert. Did they have a true hydraulic strut that used the housing as part of sealing from the factory? I know my 87 911 was made that way, as it was a big mess when I pulled them out. I wasnt expecting all that fluid!

alright!!! Way to stick with it.

When you say flaky, do you mean bad connections or did you have something swapped? So glad to hear that you are getting it sorted. PM me if you need any extra switches to test things. I should have some stuff laying around that may still work 🙂

Undo parts of the linkage to see if you can identify where the sticky part is happening.

Jackpot! I knew there was a zcar antenna around somewhere. I went out to the shop and gave a look around. I thought I had previously gone through all the boxes. For some reason, I missed it. In the bottom of a box was this electric antenna wrapped in a bag. I am pretty certain it came out of my Dads 77 280 right after he bought it. He was into CB radios and bought an antenna that would work with a radio and a CB. The original antenna went into storage. About 30 years ago my mom said I am throwing out all this old car stuff, so come get what you want. I did. The 280 antenna looks to be very similar to the 240. The tip unscrews and the mounting hardware is mint. I fell like I won the lottery. The switch to the right looks to be an early 240. The switch that was attached to the antenna looks to be factory, but I just dont know the 280's very well.

The finished parts shelves are slowly filling up. Note the electric antenna with the pointy tip! That was a bitch to get back working. The plastic cable had come loose from the mast. I heated up the mast and was able to join them back. Not to mention all the crud and corrosion inside. The next to top section has a bend, so at full up it looks like a commercial for Peyronies disease! But it does go up and down, very smoothly. I need to source some new exterior hardware for the antenna. Wish I could find a new mast. I guess I could buy a NOS one on ebay for 4k! Crazy.

I found a new heater control valve on ebay for about $80. It was oem. Now I have to decide if I want to spend the bucks for braided hoses!

The body is on hold waiting for some replacement metal, so I decided to tackle the heater box and other small stuff.. It was in rough shape. I think it was go to party place for the mice. I had to remake one of the flaps, create a new spring, and get rid of a lot of rust. I got lucky and had some products left over from past restorations that I could use. Hood insulation from a BMW worked great for the foam around the heater core and headliner material from an FJ40 for the flaps. The older I get the less trips to the store I have to make.

Making progress!

I am not 100% positive but very, very sure the first picture is the bolt that holds the ground in the right rear corner of the car. The second picture is the wire harness that goes from the right rear taillight area to the fuel sender unit. It has the ground wire.