erectorset

The poly bushings on my 71 240Z caused the car to bottom out over speed bumps and pot holes. The rubber bushings solved this problem. The Koni shocks I am recommending are adjustable and, if one has the patience to keep adjusting them, you can arrive at the ride that feels the best for you.

If you put poly bushings on the rear control arms they may be contributing to your rubbing. Swap them out for the original rubber bushings and your ride quality will vastly improve. You won't hear any squeeking noise either. As far as gas vs. hydraulic I believe you've already answered your question. Hydraulic is the way to go. There was a reason why Koni's were the "go to" shocks for Zcars in the early 70's. They are more expensive than any of the others but well worth it.

Have you considered going to Koni shocks on the fronts and rears? They will give you the stiffness you want and you may not have to change your springs. I've used them on my 1971 240Z for over 42 years and only changed all four once.

I replaced the straps in my 1971 240Z with the BD replacement kit but I used rivets instead of the clips that come with the BD Set. The clips were unmanageable. It worked out fine and they seats were back to their original suppleness. Chances are your 1972 240Z has straps also. Access is from below so you do not have to remove any vinyl.

I just got off the phone with Nissan Customer Service- Parts Division. They confirmed that both the driveshaft and halfshaft u-joints are still for sale for my 1971 240Z despite what my local Nissan dealer said. The part numbers are: Driveshaft: 37125-49W25 Halfshaft: 37126-VB925

Oiluj: Have you taken the car out on the road yet? I just installed all new driveshaft and halfshaft u-joints on my 1971 240Z that I bought from Black Bragon and have to replace all of them because they are no good. Black Dragon won't tell me who the manufacturer is, my mechanic threw out the boxes they came in and I do not remember the name of the manufacturer. I am getting pronounced vibration in 4th gear at 55MPH. I am going with Nissan replacement u-joints. I bought the drive shaft u-joints from Nissan but am still trying to find a source for the Nisan halfshaft u-joints which Nisan no longer sells. See my post on this in the Drivetrain section.

What manufacturer's half shaft u-joints did you use and where did you get them?

I just picked up my special order drive shaft u-joints from Nissan this morning for my 1971 240Z. Nissan Part #37125-49W25. Attached are pictures of the part. The manufacturer is KS-VGI and there is an "N" engraved on the spider body. A web search of KS-VGI came up empty. I would like to purchase the half-shaft u-joints (Nissan Part #37126-VB925) that Nissan no longer has from someone. Does anybody know who the manufacturer is, what the "N" stands for and where I might be able to purchase them?

My local Nissan dealer told me that Nissan/Datsun half-shaft u-joint model number 37126-VB925 is no longer available. Most of the posts that I have read recommended Nissan/Datsun u-joints over all other brands. Now that thye are unavailable what is the next best brand and model number for the half-shafts that I should purchase for my 1971 Datsun 240Z?

Anything by Howlin' Wolf

Could a few more members weigh in on this? I would like to get a concensus. Currently the door weathersripping welt at my interior side rear windows is under the interior plastic panels that surround the windows and they rub together and create a lot of annoying vibration noise when driving. It would appear to me that if the welt overlaps the panel their would be no rubbing noise. Given the number of times I have replaced the door weatherstripping and taken out and reinstalled the interior rear window panels over the last 39 years I no longer know what is right and what is wrong.

Sorry. A 1971 240Z and I was referring to the side rear window.

Would someone please tell me if the welt on the perimeter door weatherstripping is supposed to overlap the rear window interior plastic panel or go under it?

Gary: I could have saved you some money and certainly a lot of time. Three decades ago after I replaced my 2-speaker AM/FM Stereo Cassette with a 4-speaker AM/FM Stereo Cassette in my 1971 240Z, I purchased two 6" diameter recessed magnet type speakers. I removed the two access panels to the rear lamps located on the inside of the rear deck panel just below the hood latch. There is plenty of room in there for the recessed magnets. The bolt pattern on the 6" diameter speakers matched exactly the spacing of the two upper screws for the access panels. Using the same screws I attached the speakers (with two screws each) after running wires below the rear deck carpeting and the center console from the radio. The speaker covers mask the rectangular access panel openings so that there are no visible openings. My other two speakers are mounted on the vertical panel behind each seat. They are surface mounted boxes with built in tweeters and they face up at an angle. With four speakers my Z has plenty of sound for such a small cabin. PS: I recommend any Howlin' Wolf cassette you can find.

I find the 6" stock ride height mentioned to be confusing and the picture even more so. My 1971 240Z with Koni 82R-1716/82R-1717 shocks installed last year (I paid less for them in 2009 vs. 1976 when I last replaced them) with 175R14 tires on 4 1/2" J rims (I replaced the original 4" J rims when I crowned out my 185-14 Michelin XAS's: I was young then and did not know better.) measures +/- 26 1/8" from the ground up vertically through the centerline of the rear wheel to the underside of the rear quarter panel fender. The +/- depends on your tire pressure. How close is this to the stock ride height? PS: It's too bad Michelin stopped making the XAS's. They were the best for the Z's.

Check it out: http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-interior1.html

BTF/PTM: Thanks for the tip. I needed to adjust both window regulators and reglue loose felt channels in both window sashes over the last three days on my 1971 240Z and the passenger side window had all of the mis-alignment, jolting and jam issues that you described even after readjusting the front and bottom guide rails. I inserted a 3/16" thick nut (much easer than using three 1/16" washers) at the lower bolt of the front guide rail between the guide rail and the door and, presto, everything was realigned perfectly. I added a 1/16" thick washer on the inside face of the door on the upper bolt for the front guide rail to eliminate the jolting. The window nows goes up and down very smoothly. What you did not mention is that you need to substitute 1/4" longer bolts to accomodate the spacers. To everyone else who is having similar problems I highly recommend BTF/PTM's solution!

My 1971 240Z 6/71 manufacture required the longer leads. I purchased a replacement turn switch from BD but the leads were too short and they replaced it with one with longer leads. Even with the longer leads I was barely able to make the connection.

Jim: After 39 years of ownership it is easy to forget. I am embarrassed. I will now look on the right side of the steering wheel.

Guys: Thanks for your responses and the pictures. First, my instrument lamps are all working but dim when the car is running. Both the old and new plastic knobs are not broken. If the instrument lamps stay dim with the rheostat turned up then so be it. I won't know until I put in what I hope is a functioning rheostat. Since I made the post yesterday I went back to the car and reached up further behind the dash. I was able to reinstall the plastic knob by pushing down on the top of what I thought would be the rheostat but felt like a cable attachment to the top of the metal rod which the plastic knob attaches to. This cable goes somewhere else which I could not determine. My dimmer switch is to the left of the steering wheel when I am sitting inside on the driver's seat and looking out the window. My Hazard light swith is on the other side of the steering wheel and my cigarette lighter is in the console below the ash tray. Could I have an older set up with a remote rheostat somewhere else? I was also able to feel a wing nut. Is this wing nut what attaches the tach to the braket shown in both pictures? My next move is to get a probe light and some mirrors to find out what I really have. I will get back to everyone when I do.

It's Father's Day today and I decided to replace the interior instrument light rheostat on my 1971 240Z (manufacture 6/71) with a used one that I picked up on eBay. The original rheostat stopped working long ago and the instruments lights are dim. My hope is that the replacement rheostat would solve this problem. What I thought was going be a simple swap turned out to be a an excursion into the nether reaches of the dash. It appears to me that the rheostat is in a totally inaccessible location and that the swap can only be done if the dash is removed. I read EScanlon's 2/12/2002 Post on this matter and he says you can get a 90 screw drive and there and loosed the two phillips head screws. Another person said that you need to remove the driver's seat to get back behind the dash to do the work. Compounding my problem is that the shaft that the black plastic knob slips over is loose and now that I pulled the black plastic knob off I can no longer get it back on. It would appear that either the phillips head screws are loose or missing because I can slide the metal shat up inside the dash foam. Lastly, the replacement rheostat that I got was supposed to be from a 1971 Z. It matches up somewhat to the picture in my original Service Manual which is very dark. It has two wires, one male the other female. The wires are both red with a blue stripe and are each 2" long. Feeling around in there has been of no help as I cannot touch even the rheostat and the wires that are visible appear to require longer leads than what I have. My questions are: 1. Has anyone done this swap recently? Do I really need to remove the driver's side seat and purchase some type of 90 degree screw driver? 2. Are the phillips head screws above the mounting plate or below it? If they are below it the underside portion of the insulated dash would be in the way. 3. Do I have the correct part? Any advice would be appreciated.

Bruce: I believe that I am being misunderstood. First, my Zcar is running fine and does not need the carbs to be refurbished. If they did I would certainly send them to you based upon everyone's else's excellent experience with your company's work. What I meant to say was that I do not trust myself to do all of the work as I am not set up to remove and reinstall the carbs and then retune the vehicle. I learned long ago to leave any work related to the engine compartment to competent mechanics. That is why my Zcar still runs fine after 39 years.

MLC240Z: You are probably right but Oregon is too far away. I'm better off finding someone in Boston. I'm picking up my Z tomorrow. I replaced my original differential with a used one that will have new seals and bearings. Also replaced the six u-joints and the mustache bar bushings (rubber). I am anxious to see if my ride is smoother. I hope so. Arne is right. Don't mess with the carbs and you will be happy.

I always use the highest octane gas available and add lead additive to every other fill up since lead was removed from gasoline.

My 1971 240Z has been in Boston since 1974. I am the original owner and other than topping off the carb fluid I have never touched the carbs except to re-adjust idling speed after tune ups which are now very infrequent because I do not dirve the car very much and only when it is sunny. They work fine and the car starts up every year after sitting through the winter for five months. In reading the numerous posts about carb refurbishing I am always left wondering if the car would run smoother if I did refurbish the carbs. I will need to find someone to do it for me however as I am not a mechanic. Trying to find mechanics in Boston with Zcar experience is not easy as the cars are pretty much extinct in this area.