Frankensteinz2

k, i just put it in the car, fyi, don't try to drop an engine in with the header on, its a no go unless your houdini Ill post once i get it start thanks frankie

I apologize, with both sprockets timing marks on the bright links, and with my crank pulley on and lined up with TDC. My cam is a little to the RIGHT of the timing mark on timing tower 1. Just by a hair. Would it make since to put my cam one link back? or to the left? To compensate.

Hey guys, I recently rebuilt my engine and while doing so i replaced the timing chain. As I was setting timing between the cam and the crank, I noticed I was a little off. I have a 240z with a pointer on the block and 5 marks on the pulley. I read in a thread that the farthest mark to the left is TDC. (please confirm) However my new chain from MSA is just shy of reaching this postion. With my crank at the far left mark, i am just to the right of the mark on the timing mark on cam tower 1. Is this a problem? I am so worried about this damn timing :paranoid: Any advice would be appreciated Frankie

Nevermind, called msa and they told me maybe a little bit of oil but thats it. Sorry I could wait, after 3 months i am finally finishing my engine tonight. Frankie

Hey I just put on a new timing set, should I oil the chain and and sprockets with anything before i put the front cover on? Thanks Frankie

Sure was, anybody have an old pair of wiper arms, I'd be glad to buy them off you. I was just gonna buy the wiper blades from the auto parts store. Thanks Frankie

Hey, Im looking for a set of wiper arms for my 72 240z, as MSA does not have these. Does anybody know where i can them? Much appreciated Frankie

Anything..... Nothin??? Alright, I am gonna put through an order on MSA and just wait around till they get restocked. Seems alot of this rebuilding is slowed simply by the fact our cars are so old and nobody has parts any more. Oh well that just makes it all the more rare to have a restored Z. Fine by me. Frankie

Anybody know where i can get cam shims for a 240z, MSA is outta stock right now? Tried Nissan, Black Dragon, no luck. Thanks Frankie

I don't have access to a good datsun shop here in indiana, so I was stuck with guys who only work on GM products . I went the expensive route and got new rocker arms this morning. My old rockers fit but they are grooved so I was forced to spend the 400 from MSA . I heard raising the towers will change compression, which i didn't want. But now thinking about it i might order the shims too and evaluate my opitions. Either way thought because my valves seem to be a little different heights I will end up using multiple size lash pads. I am curious how this will affect things, as you said its not the way to do it. Well thanks for the Help Eric. Hopefully this all turns out reasonably well .

Hey, I have a question regarding the centering of the wipe pattern on the rocker arm. I went all stock with my rebuild so when it came to lash pads, I called MSA and asked for whatever came stock on the car and figured if i had any wipe pattern issues to work from there. I performed the wipe pattern test and i am off center towards the valve side. I called MSA to find out what the stock thickness they sent me and he said .127. Which also happens to be the thinest they have. So normal logic of going with a thinner lash pad to move the pattern towards the pivot won't work. Then he suggested shimming up the towers. I already have one shim under the towers. I was going to buy 2 more sets of shims and put them under to see the effects of the wipe pattern. Does this seem like the next logical step, or am i missing something? Also what affects are there on valve moment with the more shims. I already had .012 shaved from the head recently but before that I don't know, however it did have shims on it when i removed the head, so Im guessing it was shaved previously as well. Feelin a little over my head here. Thanks Frankie

The black is my old, and the silver are the resurfaced rockers.

Hey guys, I recently bought some resurfaced rockers to replace my old ones as i am putting in a different cam, still stock however my old one had a worn lobe so i figured new cam i better get some refreshed rockers. My question is about the new rockers, they look a little different and I am concerned about the rocker arm geometry being different. The person I bought them from on ebay stated they were out of a 240z. I have attached some pictures. Can you tell me what you think? Thanks Frankie

The owner is fine. He said the only damage was to the rear end, but if i see him ill ask for pics. When i talked to him it sounded like it was the tow truck drivers fault. But as you guys said I think he might have been to blame. Anyways the tow truck driver's company is paying for the damage so i don't know whats up with that. I agree that you should stay plenty of distance from the car until it is completely off the lift. Thank goodness it wasn't my Z I think the next view you would gotten would be me comin out of the garage cryin like a little baby. He probably cut that part out. Frankie

Friend of mine JUST gettin his car back from the shop. Apparently he was released off the tow truck a little faster then expected. Last I heard it was back at the shop for a little rear end work. Video doesn't show much but you get the idea. Frankie

Hey guys Lookin for the attached part. This piece is inside the door on the backside of the handle. When you open the door this piece pushes down and press a lever its connected to to release the lock. Not sure the exact name but I have been through a couple they break pretty easy. I don't want to buy the complete assembly as its a little pricey. Zed use to have him but he parted them all out, now im lookin for another source. At least one if not 2. Please see attached pic Thanks Frankie

.................and done (for the most part), these are some pics of the driver's side, passenger side is going to take a little bit due to excessive rust at the fire wall and frame rail now on to the rockers and wheel archs frankie

Zak, i bought my tubing from fedhill brake lines. I saw another post about them and thought i would try them out. I bought 50 feet of the 5/16, i figure i could use it for everything but the fuel hose. Then i bought 5/8 in 12 feet for the fuel line itself. I was planning on using the old nuts, because i heard they are difficult to find. If not once i get them off i will match them at the hardware and then just order them. I still need to get a bender though thanks for the advice, something to chew on once i go shopping for one. I like the filling with sand idea. I will post an update once i get them installed. Lets hope they don't look like @#!% when im done. I am in the middle of getting the floors done, so figured its the best time to do the lines. However this is so much at once i think im going a little stir crazy. But i aint givin up.... Frankie

Thanks guys. I think im gonna take the plunge while i have the tranny and engine out. Ill check out the parts between the 2 distributors and see whats good. Wish me luck Frankie

Hey guys, First of all i just wanted to thank everybody for the help i have received on this site, without it i don't think i would have gotten any where on my car. I went to move my fuel lines yesterday for some welding and realized that they are very rusted and old, so are my brake lines. I am looking to remove all the hard lines and replace them with new. My first question is are my brake lines and fuel lines the same type of material can i get tubes that will work for both? Also for those of you that have done this can i get some pointers on what to look out for as it looks to be a pretty indepth job? Finally where can i get these lines, I saw the brake lines on ebay for 200, however i can't find anything on parts to redo the fuel lines? Let me know Frankie

that will make twice i have talked too you this week bruce, im in fort wayne and i just ordered a carb kit from you the other day, ill give you a call tomorrow thanks for the info frankie

It would be much cheaper to grind the old cam as the cam kits cost around 800. I would also like to keep my engine stock and its been difficult to find a stock cam. MSA is telling me they are out of stock cams and they said they will continue to look for a distributor as well. These engines are tanks just as is, whats the saying, "don't mess with perfection."

check that i don't want to limit myself to the midwest, nation wide does anyone know a good shop to send my cam to be grinded and repaired i have a worn lobe?

Hey does anyone know of a cam grinding shop in the midwest who does good work? thanks frankie

Hey guys, I am curious what you more experienced z guys have to say about piston to cylinder clearance. I sent my engine to the shop and they told me i should have .002 clearance. He told me my worst piston is .004 and that with cast iron pistons, that was excessive. I looked in my engine book by Monroe and he says .002 is standard, however max clearance is .009. Can I stick with these pistons for daily driving or is this too much? One other thing, I bought a stock cam from MSA and they get theirs direct from Nissan. (I had to pay premium but I believe this will not be a softer after market cam) I am curious if my old rockers look fine would they be ok to stick with or should i get new?? I am told they are pretty forgiving. Plus they are like 27 a piece!!!!!!!!!!!! I am trying to save some cash but not if i am going to loose quality. However i don't won't to spend if i don't have too. Thanks Frankie