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Great catches ... so the bumpers are 260Z bumpers? That is good to know, even if they are early 260Z bumpers ... at least they are from a 260Z.

I wrote that I am the seller ... read all the post and you'll see ... not trying to violate anyone ... but I think you are right, Oboma will save you and you will probably even be able to collect disability for that as well. I thought 4k was a good price for a clean, solid, original (ecept the bumpers and carb), unaltered 260z .... 240Z & 280z are nice, but everybody and thier mother has one!

When I got the car it came with the chrome bumpers, but you'all are right it is a late 260z and should have big ugly bumpers. In the box of parts I have 2 flat top carbs, a intake manifold, linkages, big rubber bumper thingies, and a blue (yes light blue) air cleaner, and the rear Datsun & 260z emblems ... I was told that these are all the orgininal parts for the car ... but obviously the original bumpers seem to be missing. I never looked under the car until I took the photos ... wow I was really surprized to see how clean it was. It looks like this car must have been well cared for it's whole life. The only disappoint thing is the paint and dash. The paint does have it's issues and the dash does have cracks ... but at least I am being upfront in the ad ... unlike others who would just try to make a quick buck. This car was given to me for payment of a 4k loan a few years ago ... hopefully I can get it back. I seem to have one bidder, lets see if it keeps going.

I am looking for input from others on the ad. I'd like to understand what might turn people off of the car, what you see that does not look right, what I could add/subtract from the ad. You guys here are great at picking out things that I would never think of. As for the rear emblem ... good point. Thanks, never thought of that

Tell me what you think of this car http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320487624707

I have set timing before ... so I know to adjust by rotating the distributor, I just never thought about the advance. I checked my intake vacuum and it seems to be a bit low ... about 12 in hg ... but once you rev the engine the engine vacuum drops for a bit and once you let off it jumps to 22-24 in hg ... so it seems ok to me.

Sounds like that might ne the way to do this ... I'll give it a shot l8tr today. I'll get some white out and mark everything ... once I have done this I should be set to do the timing. I have already adjusted the valves. Once the timing is done ... redo the carbs and I should be set! Any instruction on how to set the timing ... I mean I know where the notch is on the pully, I have the light, I know where the toothy marker is ... I know to use the #1 spark wire ... but I am a little fuzzy on the advance and retard setting adjustments.

My issue is that I can not get the pick-up point and the reluctor point to align by simply turning over the engine ... so how do you get these to align so that you can check the gap. Also I have the Nissan service manual ... does not tell how to get them aligned to check the gap.

Also ... this igintion has been used by many people in the 240z as a upgrade from points ... surely someone has gaped these before.

Since this car is a late 260Z auto with the duel magnetic pick-up ... I would imagine that this applys to some early 280z as well. My car is completely stock, so this is the original setup ... probably not the original pick-ups. But the factory manual suggest that the gap be review at every tune up. I am planning on timing my car this weekend, and I want to make sure that everything is right for an accurate timing. I would imagine that if this gap is off it could effect the timing. BTW does anyone have a really good "how to" on timing a 260z ... incuding the advance and retard adjustments.

My manual indicates that I need to check the gap between my reluctor and piack-ups (I have duel) ... yet it does not explain how. How do you align the reluctor tips to the pickup tip to measure the gap?

Are the SY carbs in sets or can I swap out ... a bad one (dirt) for a rebuilt one and just retune?

On the firewall? passenger side interior?

I am gonna look into the igntion switch and see if it is just a mater of cleaning the terminals.

The temperature does not seem to effect it much. Right now I have a button in my car next to the ignition. I turn the ignition on, and push the button to start the car. All the button does is right straight power to the starter ... but it starts everytime. However, I would like to fix the real issue.