glassguy
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Everything posted by glassguy
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From the album: 71 240Z
The guy on the right side of the pic with the beer in his hand is Kirk. He's the guy who did all the body work. In my business, I deal with body shops every day. One thing I've learned over the years is that a body shop is only as good as the people who work there. Some of the best Body and paint guys are the ones who work out of small garages in lesser known locations. Quality body and paint work really is an art in my opinion. -
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From the album: 71 240Z
Rust cut out, amateur sheet metal repairs and welds done by me, completely taken down to bare metal then etched primed. All glass, emblems, mouldings, bumpers removed. Engined re-installed. The body shop wanted it to run and drive. -
From the album: 71 240Z
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From the album: 71 240Z
This is what I found under about a 1/4 inch of bondo. Old school repairs. Ultimately the body shop replaced both quarter panels and the inner wheel wells. It added a couple thousand dollars more to the job, but it's the right way to do it. -
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From the album: 71 240Z
My welds are getting better. -
From the album: 71 240Z
Both of the original retainers were pretty far gone. And it's always a good thing to know someone who has their own machine shop and likes beer. I think these cost a 12 pack. -
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From the album: 71 240Z
I did paint the engine compartment though. I figured, "it's an engine compartment", it doesn't have to be perfect. And, I learned how to do base/clear coat with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun, and an undersized air compressor. And don't mind those ugly welds at the bottom of the shock towers. You can't see them driving down the road anyway. I still don't know why I didn't grind them down...Oh well. -
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From the album: 71 240Z
So, after driving it for a summer, I got really attached to this car and decided to commit to a good restoration. It took me about another two years to get it done. I started by pulling the engine and starting with the engine compartment and working out from there. I took it down to bare metal, welded in some repair panels and anything else I could handle. Then I shot it all with etch primer, and sent it to the body shop for about another 9 months. From here I'll just post more random pictures of the restoration in some kind of order. -
From the album: 71 240Z
Now that it was reasonably safe to drive, I figured I should fix the gaping holes on both of the floor boards. I still drove it with the bad floors for the first summer, Then spent the next winter working on my non-existant sheet metal welding skills. -
From the album: 71 240Z
Now that its running, I needed to make it stop. I ended up replacing the master cylinder, all 4 wheel cylinders, and all of the brake lines. And pads and shoes of course. While I was at it, I replaced the strut inserts and new springs. New set of tires too. Nothing fancy, just new. At this point I just wanted to drive it. I had no plans beyond that. -
From the album: 71 240Z
The first thing was the engine. The previous owner told me that the guy he had bought it from said the engine was rebuilt, but never ran. And he could never get it to run either. So, I took it one step at a time. 1st problem was the ignition. The points were rusted shut. And after some filing, gapping, and a small wiring issue we had spark. The next issue was fuel. The carbs were basically, totally gummed up and stuck. After some research on the internet, I was directed to Z Therapy, and ordered the rebuild kit along with the video. Adjusted the valves, new plugs, new wires, new fuel pump, new everything! And it turns out that it probably had been rebuilt! Almost perfect compression on all 6 cylinders! Runs like a dream! -
From the album: 71 240Z
Day one. Just bought it for $600.00. Engine turns over, but doesn't run. Don't know if anything works. In fact, I don't even know what an SU type carb is. What have I done? OH, and the wife is pissed! -
Last night I called every auto parts supplier within 50 miles. No one here carries Red Line products. So I ordered 3 quarts of MT-90 from Amazon. Previous to starting this thread, I had no idea that certain gear lube will damage the synchros. Thanks to all for the lesson. So now I'm really chomping on the bit here. I have every single thing ready to go, except for the gear oil, and waiting for the new dust cover coming from Zcarsouce. And even if everything goes together and works as it should, I can't even take it for a test drive. Still lots of salt and snow on the roads here in Iowa. All I'll be able to do is back it out of the garage and go back in. Probably should have started this project in March. It's gonna be at least another month, maybe two, before I can hit the road.
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Thanks for all the great advice! I think I'll go with redline.
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I'm close to finishing the auto to manual tranny conversion on my 71 240Z. It's a 5 speed out of a 78 280Z. Since I bought the transmission at a junk yard with no way of knowing it's condition, I took it to a reputable transmission shop to get it looked at before I put it in. They replaced one bearing and said everything else is good. So, do I fill it with whatever is originally recommened, or have any of you had better luck with anything else. I live in Iowa, so it only gets driven in warm weather and put away in the winter. Thanks.
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Correction: The brake pedal lines up fine, it's the clutch pedal that's off. The clutch pedal I'm trying to use is off the later pedal box. I think I need to locate a clutch pedal from a 240. Regardless, it seems like the shaft from the master cylinder will still be at a slight angle even with the correct pedal. It just doesn't look right to me. Here's a few pics. The other pedal box in the pic is the one off a later Z. Which of course wont work. The one with the pedals on it, is the original box that's out of my 240Z that was originally an auto trans. Is it possible that my master cylinder shaft and connector bracket are wrong as well? If the correct clutch pedal is offset all the way to one side at the pivot point, the master clyinder shaft will STILL be at a slight angle, and that just doesn't seem right to me. What gives?
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After looking closer at my original pedal box I think I might have removed it for nothing. It looks like all they did was use the same box assembly whether it was a auto or manual. I just need the brake pedal and clutch pedal off a 240 and the bolt and return spring for the brake pedal, and I'm good to go. I tried putting the brake pedal from the 280 box on my 240 box, and although it fits, its not centered to hook up to the brake booster shaft. Thats why I think the 240 pedal will most likely have a different offset and should work. I haven't tried the clutch pedal yet, but probably the same issue. Can anyone confirm this?
