glassguy

I have a 71 240Z, manufacture date is 7/71. I am currently removing its original automatic transmission and putting in a 5 speed from a 78 280Z. Over the last year or so I have bought all of the bits and pieces I need to do this job. So, right now, I'm in the process of installing the pedal box I bought off of Ebay a while back. According to the seller, this pedal box was usable on a 70-78 Z. I cant remember what it came off of. Most likely a 75-78 is my guess. Anyway, my problem is that the new manual pedal box lines up with all of the "under dash" connections, but the brake booster bolts are off. Two of them. and the tear drop shaped cut out for the brake booster is off about a 1/2 inch to one side. The clutch master cylinder lines up fine. I've even tried to install parts from the new pedal box to the original box with no success. The next step is to start cutting, chopping and welding to get this to work, and I would rather not do this. Do I just need to find a pedal box from another 240, and if so, what years are 100% compatible with MY 7/71 240Z. I would rather just buy another pedal box to avoid more jacking around! Thanks.

I'm finally removing the automatic transmission out of my 71 240Z and installing a 5 speed thats out of a 78 280Z. After checking out as many threads on this subject, it seems that the "rear engine plate" is different for either transmission. So whats the difference between the two? Just curious.

1. No fusible link that I can see. 2. 6 years. Restoration finished 2 years ago. 3. I replaced the alternator a few months ago because the one that came with the car did die. 4. I replaced the voltage regulator only because I replaced the alternator. Both are "cheap" Oreilly's parts. 5. Tomorrow morning I will be getting the alternator tested. What has me confused is, Why do the running lights ONLY work with the car running. I removed the alternator belt and started the car. No running lights. And with the alternator connected the running lights will work, and will blow if i give it gas. Obviously they are getting too much power. But why wont the damn things work with the motor off! I know I burned a wire somewhere, but I just cant find it. I cant stand tearing apart this car. It's painful.

71 240Z. My running lights stopped working the other day. I checked the fuse and it was ok. When I pulled one of the bulbs out I noticed it was burned out. It turns out every single running light, and all of the dash lights are not only burned out, but on some the glass is even cracked. I replaced all four of the running lights and they worked fine again, until I started the car and gave it some gas. They got bright and poof. No more lights. The first thing I checked was the voltage regulator. It's only 3 months old. With the car idleing it shows 12.6 volts. The volts dont go up at all if i rev it up. It shows 12.4 to 12.6 at the battery while running. I also just lost my stereo. It went up in smoke the same day the lights started acting up. Also, after all of this, the annoying door buzzer now only comes on when the car is running. And just today after really getting a chance to look thing over, the only thing I can find is that the negative wire that goes from the battery to the firewall is slightly melted. AND, during all of this not one single fuse has blown. And I have the upgraded fuse block with blade fuses last year. I disconnected the entire stereo system and no burned wires or blown fuses. I'm lost. Any ideas ? And now, I just replaced one of the running lights and it only come on while the engine is running. at idle the bulbs brightness fluctuates. I know if I reved it up it would burn out.

I've made a serious effort making sure EVERYTHING works on my Z as it originally did. My first question is about the annoying buzzer that activates when I open the driver door. When I open the driver door, the buzzer goes on and the overhead light goes on. It doesn't matter if the key is in the ignition or not. It buzzes either way. Is it only supposed to buzz if the key is in the ignition? Question 2 is that the passenger door only activates the overhead light when opened. That's correct, right? Once I get this ironed out I should have everything functioning 100%! Yes the original clock works too. Thanks.

When I last filled the diff, it was out of the car. I figured if I filled it while it was on a level surface, it would be fill as if it was in the car. Well, after some heat and cussing, I pulled the fill plug. About 1/3 cup of diff fluid spilled out. It was obviously overfilled. Hopefully that was the issue. I guess I'll find out soon.

71 240z auto trans. This summer I installed all of the urethane bushing at the rear of the car. ALL of them. Since I had everything apart back there, I went ahead and dropped the differential so I could clean it up. I also replaced the diff fluid while it was out. It never leaked before i removed it. After I put everything back together I noticed it would leave a drop or two on the garage floor, but I didn't worry about it. Over the last few months the leak is slowly getting worse. Maybe 10+ drips now. I got under the car today to figure out where this leak is coming from. It looks like its coming from the top of the diff, definately higher up somewhere. It's just really hard to see much because of all of the brackets and things in the way. I just can't get a clear view. Any ideas before I start taking things apart? THANKS!

Buffalo. On the Mississippi! The car show was in Davenport, a few miles up river.

I like the old Mopars too! But they don't always seem to like my car. Thanks for your vote!

Please vote for my car. My 71 240Z is in the running to be in a classic car calendar. If I win, I think I'll be the first, "non American Muscle Car" in this calendar. I'm car #10. But that's kind of obvious though. Thanks! http://www.2dorks.com/2013_car_vote.html

I recently installed a 2 row Champion radiator on my 71 240Z. I also installed twin electric radiator fans. The radiator is a great product. The electric fans not so much. Poor cooling in stop and go traffic, and they draw lots of amps. I run a 160 thermostat which keeps the temp fine when moving, but for extended stops or idling, the temp gauge climbs more than I feel comfortable with. I think the stock fan with a correctly functioning clutch and a SHROUD, is the way to go. So, has anyone installed the MSA aftermarket shroud to the Champion radiator without having to modify anything? I still have my original metal fan, but I tossed my old radiator and have no way to compare it to the Champion radiator. Thanks, Chris.

My Z is 7/71. Does that make it "late"? And of course its a "factory automatic".This is my first Z, so I'm not as educated on these as some of you are. I don't think I will change the diff, so I'm starting to lean towards the 5 speed. And I do plan on doing trips with this car, so the extra gear would definately be a plus. So, exactly where does the 5 speed trans come from. I've read many threads about 5 speeds from late z's and i think some newer Nissans. What is the easiest 5 speed swap with as few mods as possible, and what mods are needed? Throwout bearing? Starter? Driveshaft? Mounts? Console? Also, What are the years and models of the cars that the 5 speed should come from, or the model # of the transmission? I'd rather hear direct answers to these questions than count on info from random threads. Thanks again. Chris.

My restored, stock 71 240z has a perfectly good automatic transmission. My plan is to find a manual transmission soon, and hang on to it. Someday, if or when the auto trans goes, or I get sick of it, I will have the manual ready to go. And yes, I will also need ALL of the other bits and pieces to make the conversion. My issue is, should I go with a 5 speed or the original 4 speed. It seems putting a 5 speed in requires some modifications. I don't have a preference to either 4 or 5 speed, but I think putting in the 4 speed would be easier. I really don't like the idea of whatever changes or mods the 5 speed might require. I would just like to hear some opinions on this subject. Thanks.

That's perfect! Thanks.

I recently thought I wanted to do this conversion. I just ordered a Champion 2 row aluminum radiator with two electric fans. After more research and reading numerous threads on this subject, I have decided to not install the fans right away. I don't think all the fuss and wiring is worth the small hp gain, "if any", that I might get. I will install the radiator and keep the stock fan in place and see how it works out. I'm sure it will be fine. But, my question is this. Before I chose to start off without the electric fans, I had decided to go with a thermostat relay kit that uses a temp sending unit that directly reads the coolant temp. It's just like the temp sending unit that goes to your temp gauge. I think it is the most accurate and reliable set-up. I found this kit at Ledfoot Racing, or their website championradiators.com. So, if I ever did do this conversion, where would this sending unit go? If I put it in place of the temp gauge sending unit, I would lose my gauge. So where else could this sending unit be installed if I was to ever try?

Just received the spindle sleeves from Energy Suspension today. They are spot on! Great company to deal with! I just wanted to mention that.

Thanks for the info. I stopped by "the cheap tool place" today and picked up a $20 set of calipers. .629 it is! Four of the sleeves that Energy Suspension sent me were too small so I needed to confirm what my spindles outer dimensions were ASAP. By the way, The people at Energy Suspension were very easy to deal with. They said they would measure the new sleeves before they mailed them to me. And I bought this suspension kit 2-3 years ago. Thats how long its taken me to finally tackle the dreaded spindles!

Does anyone know what the rear control arm spindle pin outer dimension is. I cant find my calipers or any kind of info on the internet. Thanks, Chris.

Towards the passenger side on top of the steering rack there is an off white plastic cap of some sort. Unfortunately while I was degreasing and using a pressure washer, this cap broke off. What is it, and what is it's function? How important is it?