zeeboost

I've had issues with an L28 running so rich that it would foul out a spark plug...it was typically just one at a time for some reason. There's a chance you may have something going on with the injector, but I would get the running rough / surging issue ironed out first, since cleaning the spark plug seemed to remedy the misfire you were hearing in the exhaust. Slightly possible #1 injector is fouling out cylinder one, causing a richer condition that O2 sensor is picking up and having the ECU lean the mixture to compensate...but I think that's a far cry. Let me know what type of meter you have and I'll see if it has a function you can you to try and measure pulsewidth. It may not give you an exact number in milliseconds, but could give you a percentage to go off of. I typically use a labscope for drivability issues on these cars, but more-so for backprobing the ECU and monitoring inputs vs outputs, so unfortunately don't have a good (cheap) tool recommendation for that off the top of my head. However although it's not a scope, a cheaper tool that I've used to measure pulsewidth is the Power Probe IV Amazon.com: Power Probe IV w/Case & Acc - Red (PP401AS) [Car Diagnostic Test Tool Digital Volt Meter ACDC Current Resistance Circuit Tester Fuel Injector Tester] : Tools & Home Improvement .

Judging off the last video uploaded, definitely doesn’t sound like an ignition fault such as loss of spark, typically those cause an abrupt stall…this one sounds like the engine stays running during the problem, but seems it’s starving for fuel. I would be inspecting the fuel control inputs (afm voltage, coolant temp voltage, throttle valve switch continuity in spec, etc.) if you could get a meter to measure injector pulsewidth, you could compare all inputs to the pulsewidth and see if they stay constant while the pw changes (bad ecu or ground / power / poor connection) or if you have one of the inputs that fluctuates with the problem, you could inspect that circuit. If pulsewidth doesn’t change during problem then possible cause could be unmetered air, such as the egr valve potentially hanging open…though that mostly had an effect at idle and not partial throttle situations.

The 280z EFI system is pretty much standalone, but off the top of my head I think you would just have to wire a different switch / relay to drive the fuel pump if you’re planning to keep it electric.

That’s what I did to mine, I like the way it came out. Very 80s, reminds me of a station / conquest

The fact that the noid light is pulsing is a good sign on its own. Levels of brightness can vary depending on several factors, but I wouldn’t focus too much on that. Remember it will also be dimmer while cranking as you essentially drop from 12 to 9-10v. I’m assuming from your original post that you can physically see the injectors are not spraying fuel while cranking, but they are spraying when you jump each one over with the battery, correct? If so, I would verify the integrity of all grounds running to the ecu. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to verify harness integrity as well. Remember, even just one good strand of copper in a wire will pass the resistance test, but may not be able to carry a load. But we can worry about that later. First, rule out if it’s lack of power or lack of ground preventing the injectors from firing. You can try this by turning the key to on to supply the power and then manually temporarily grounding the injector on the appropriate pin. If you’re concerned about damaging the ecu while doing this test (hasn’t happened to me yet), you can de-pin the ecu connector of the wires that drive (ground) the injectors, then plug it back in. If they work when you manually ground them, I would be leaning towards a grounding issue. If they don’t, then I would be trying to figure out why there’s power being lost. Maybe just a weak battery? Dirty contacts in a relay that supplies power to the injectors? Weak fusible link? Have you tried cranking it while the battery is on a charger? Lastly, is the fuel good? Does the engine run on supplemental fuel (like starting fluid)? The good news is these are about the most simplistic efi setup to troubleshoot and work on, so just take your time going through the fsm and enjoy.

Now THAT is a whale of a tail!

Ah ok, my bad granny, you did pretty well overall!

Guess he missed the memo that he can work out his lower body as well

I don’t have any experience with those brands, but honestly I haven’t been disappointed with just about any part I received that was made in Japan.

I have a 280zxt that I painted grabber blue several years ago, and I used flat black to accent the color. I thought it helped the color pop. You could try painting the cowl panel off the car, then just placing it over the primer that it is now or a black, and if you don’t like it then you know to leave the cowl off when having the rest of the car painted. Oh and granny, I don’t know if all Texas classic cars are assumed to come from the western part (where it’s dry), but I can promise you the cars still love to rust over here...especially in Houston where he is. It’s funny how many times I’ve heard “Texas car” used as a selling point, but having spent pretty much all my life here so far, never understood how that came about.

They are a legitimate company, but they’re just exercising typical business practices...buy as cheap as possible and sell for as much as possible...hence why their first offer was so low. You would get more if you just clean up what you can, take many pictures of the “important areas”, and be willing to handle several people wanting to buy the car. You shouldn’t have a problem getting more than $11,500, the Beverly Hills place would probably list it for at least double what they offered you.

I disagree, he’s just stating that an L25 is most likely a bored over L24 (assuming it’s not a typo) in the same sense that L29, L31, etc is simply a modified L28.

Bendpaks are great lifts, but they do sit the car up a little higher than some of the low profile lifts marketed for car stacking. I don’t have any first hand experience with car stacker lifts, but I can say to make sure you have all your measurements down (and then measure again), and know exactly how high the roofline will be using “x” lift. You’ll want to take the measurement from the highest point on the concrete in the garage, because if it isn’t plum level then the lift will need to be shimmed on the corners that sit lower, adding to the total height. And if there’s a drastic rake in the garage then different or modified ramps may be required.

I guess that’s why everyone’s afraid to buy one with a sunroof.

The orange one seemed like a bargain compared to this https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-240Z/224263144994?hash=item3437200622:g:HPAAAOSw3ZFfyTd8

2 posts are still handy for doubling your parking spot, but since the suspension hangs while the car is lifted, I would prefer a 4 post for long term storage...though either can be used

Actually a 2 post is the only lift I’ve used to work on my motorcycle...just swing two arms underneath a good lift point on the frame and I’m golden. My vote would be a 2 post...they’re cheaper, take up less physical space, and allow you to do more repairs, easier, than a 4 post. A 4 post does have its benefits, such as if you were to park a car on it for storage while parking another underneath, it does a better job of that than a 2 post. Otherwise from a practicality standpoint, 2 post wins hands down.

I know the market is hot for these right now, but I’d be pretty surprised if you would be able to get $100k even after a total restore. Heck, if you can get $50k for it as is then you should just jump on that in a heartbeat. This one is pretty close to what you have, though in better condition and still a reliable daily driver, and sold for low $40k https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-51/ From the few pictures I’ve seen, your Z looks to be in mostly good condition for its age, and is a good candidate for light restoration / repair, but I think the visible rust and flaking paint will deter the higher bidders. But, that’s just my opinion... all you need are two people with deep pockets that really want it.

Hah, you’re right. I just looked at the companion flange and guess for some reason my brain auto-filled a monkey motion shifter. Can’t say I’ve come across that style yet, but I’m sure someone else on here has.

It looks like the FS5C71A transmission, which I think the euro market used those transmissions in the 240Z as well (possibly different gearing...? Don’t know a lot about them). It may have also come from a Datsun 2000 roadster...

I honestly don’t know why anyone would want to restore this one. As people have already mentioned, it’s only original once. I would pdr what I can and rock it from there. It already has some flaws, so you don’t have to get anxiety over taking her out for a spin, but presents itself well enough that most people wouldn’t believe it hadn’t been restored yet. I think it looks amazing as a 50 year old driver. Sure you can find a few low mileage, near flawless all original examples from cars that lived most of their lives in the garage, but this z was actually driven (for the most part) and wears very few battle scars from it. If I was in a position to buy these cars that pop up on BAT, I would’ve gladly paid more for this one than the Orange 240z that sold just before it. How many 240Zs can say they’re still wearing their original Nissan skin and look that good?

New timing chain kit too, don’t think I’ve seen a pullout that clean before...probably fresh from the machine shop. I would install the engine and run it as is in a heartbeat. Keep your other block as a backup / future n/a build.

I’ve never installed an oil filter relocation kit on one of these, but you could probably use an oil cooler adapter from a 280zx turbo automatic, and then if you didn’t want to use the old cooler just cap the lines off. It would be a factory fit and it keeps the oil filter off the block. It doesn’t really make a mess any time I pulled an oil filter off one.

Floors can get wet from several causes, but from my experience the t-top seals are most problematic. I don’t know how common the s130 cowls rust out but I have yet to come across one after messing with several. Should be relatively easy to remove the screws from the black plastic trim on the cowl, open it up and have a look inside if it’s a potential deal breaker for you.

If it’s a t-top then those seals love to leak. Windshield I’ve also seen as a common spot, especially on top where you’ll notice some bubbling around tge windshield seal. If slick top then windshield or possibly where the door window seals at the top.