zeeboost

A new hope https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/battle-ground-complete-z-with-280z-fuel/6882738489.html (would’ve been more appropriate on Saturday)

If you’re unfamiliar with engines then you should probably just keep the l24 (or l28, whatever engine it comes with) to get your foot in the door with how they work and what it takes to keep them running well. The L engines aren’t boring, especially if you push the car the way it was designed.

In the past I’ve been able to drill / tap a couple m8x1.25 holes 180* from each other, then use the bolts to push against the hub while forcing the drum back. Just alternate slowly between the two bolts, and some hammering in between to help break it free. It may not work in all cases but I would definitely try that before cutting.

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning).

I wouldn’t mind a cylinder head and intake thrown in with it, but generally yes just the crankshaft is what everyone goes for. How much were you asking for it?

Since you repaired a harness that was cut, you should probably start by unplugging every connector from the ecm and sensors, backprobing the pins and verify with schematics that every wire goes exactly where it’s supposed to and only there. May be a little overkill but with every wire you can also measure continuity to ground just to make sure there wasn’t anything shorted / pinched during installation. Or maybe some welding slag didn’t burn through the harness and bridge some wires that shouldn’t be touching. Cant tell you off the top of my head about older Toyota engine management, but with older nissans, rpm limiting was synonymous with maf faults (I also come from the land of z32tt so that’s just the first thing that pops up) you should wire in a bulb that the ecm can use as a temporary check engine light, put ecm in self test mode and see what codes you get. Or the tuning software you’re using...is it unable to retrieve trouble codes? That would be better than shooting in the dark.

It was a car I built roughly 10 years ago and is one I should've never sold. Guess I've just kept that avatar there in remembrance. I started off doing engine swaps in these cars, as they were cheap enough to buy as a project shell and modify the blank canvas however I want. But as of recent the prices on some of these just make me feel too guilty modifying anything, and have somewhat caught the purist bug with it. Kind of interesting when I walk from one garage with an lq4 f1r pro charged widebody s30 to the garage on the other side of my backyard with all original '70 that I keep trying to source out as many OE parts as I can. ECUs actually read voltage, not resistance. Resistance of the sensor alters the return voltage to the computer. Sometimes amperage readings are also used as signals, but most of the time its voltage.

Verify your timing marks with some pictures on google if you haven’t yet.

Btw if you haven’t checked it out yet, go to www.hybridz.org That site is dedicated to z car engine swaps. There is a Toyota 6 cyl help section you could go digging through over there. You may find some help here but it’s more of a site for all original or lightly modified Zs. I like this site but I come here to get my purist fix on, see how inferior my Z is based on some letters and numbers stamped into the metal 50 years ago, how many speakers and modulations my radio caters to, along with all the other little hidden Easter eggs.

Look at the pids on your tuning software and check for voltages out of range, go from there. Does it always run in the 10s? Or only during cruising, idle, part throttle, wot, etc. If it starts off in the 10s on a cold start then it’s probably not your o2 sensor unless it’s wired incorrectly and is backfeeding the wrong circuit into the computer. Your ecm starts off in open loop during warm up and doesn’t pay attention to the o2 sensor until it goes into closed loop once the coolant temp reaches whatever the calibrated temp is (typically around 160*). Other factors for rich condition off the top of my head that aren’t Ecm related: mechanical timing, ignition timing, fuel quality, restricted exhaust, restricted intake system, wrong injectors, too much fuel pressure (but that’d have to be way off to run as rich as you are).

It wasn't a scam, friend of a friend was talking to the guy to go pick it up, but someone else beat him to it. Same way this one wasn't a scam as I spoke with the seller via phone, and he even offered facetime. (also in Washington area)

No it was mislabeled as a 72. Vin was 17xxx if I remember correctly.

Yep, this series 1 sold in less than an hour. Seattle and Oregon always seem to have killer deals going on

I saw where he swapped the injector connectors and later talked about swapping the injectors as a test procedure, but didn't see where he actually went through with swapping them.

You could just try swapping an injector around to see if your symptom follows it before building an elaborate test setup. If cylinder #3 has no change when you disconnect the injector for it, you could swap the injector to #1 to see if the problem follows. You already have the rail out.

Fuel pressure is fine, pressure drops with higher vacuum and vice versa. Fuel pressures are more important with the engine loaded (close to 0" ). Did you run a fuel pressure test with the engine loaded or just at idle? Curious, have you replaced the little injector seals on the intake manifold? You could try getting a small bottle of propane, with the engine running open it and direct the gas around any vacuum lines, afm to tb boot, or where the manifold bolts up to the cylinder head to make sure you're completely sealed off. If the idle raises then you found a leak. And though a volume test would be better, the injectors look like they're spraying well enough to not cause a misfire under light loads. Careful when you're grounding out the injectors, the computer does it in milliseconds, not seconds, and you could fry one if you keep current flowing through it for too long. You can also get a cheap spark tester from harbor freight to put inline with the plug and wire to see if ignition cuts out on these cylinders when the engine starts to misfire.

Any chance on making these for g-nose buckets?

Just read where you had the injectors rebuilt. Though I hate making any assumptions when diagnosing, probably a safe bet that they're fine. Though a little extra confirmation never hurt.

I'm glad captain obvious picked up on vacuum signal to distributor. That should be ported vacuum, not manifold. If anything, disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor, plug it off and set base timing that way. Make sure your rpms are around 800 when setting it. I honestly don't see 34psi at idle causing your sputtering problem. 153624 counterclockwise is correct, the 1 should be towards the radiator. You can run a fuel pressure drop test on the injectors, it's a crude test that doesn't show you spray patterns but can show you if an injector isn't moving fuel. Have your pressure gauge connected and with key on engine off run the pump for a few seconds, either clamp off the return or deadhead (cap off) the return side of the rail. If your fuel pressure doesn't quickly bleed down after turning the key off, you can probably get away without capping the return. Record where the pressure is at, then using a 9 volt battery, very quickly jump an injector (literally just tap the wire to the terminal) and monitor pressure loss. Do this with all 6 injectors and compare their results. You'll have to prime the fuel pump after testing each injector, and make sure not to activate them too many times before starting the engine (keep from flooding it). I use 12v when doing this but 9v is safer, as you can easily fry the injector by leaving it engaged too long. Lots of other things can be done but these will help. If you have an infrared temp gun you can hit each exhaust runner with it, a "cold" cylinder may be your problem child. Definitely easier with headers than log manifold, (and a setup that doesn't have an intake directly above it) but doable. This is just a suggestion if you have one handy, don't run out to go buy one just for this.

Check your fuel pressure inline with a gauge between the filter and the rail, verify that it can maintain 35+ psi when loaded up. I've had your same symptom before with 0 psi in the rail. I had no clue how it was idling (possibly secondary source through the charcoal canister...?), but it would sound healthy as a horse until you tried to drive it, then fall flat on its face. To make sure the gauge wasnt broken I used clear vinyl tubing on both sides and sure enough, the air bubbles in there would remain stagnant, yet it would idle until I shut it off. And of course check for vacuum leaks, etc

I hit him up to see if he'd part with the radio, but no response. If I came back outside to find my Z looking like that...I'd have to sell it for more than $4200 to cover my bail. Freakin people...

Do you have any stock photos of what it looks like mounted on a z? Curious how it compares to the classic style.

You should go for this one instead, #3718 that appears original, in better shape, willing to bet numbers matching, and half the price. And as a finder's fee just cut me a deal on the radio since I'm still trying to get one for my series 1 restoration. Should probably act fast, this one won't last long https://buffalo.craigslist.org/cto/d/1970-datsun-240z-series-1ole/6662103012.html

Those are the "deals" in Texas, while California gets these: https://slo.craigslist.org/cto/d/1971-datsun-240z/6658679559.html Half the vin (series 1), high potential of original engine, looks better condition that most I see for sale, and it's even cheaper to boot.

If it was a tooth or so off on the distributor drive / worm gear, somebody may have just shifted the distributor or wires around to get the ignition timing back in range. And judging by the broken / missing bolts in the timing cover, I wouldn't put it past them. I vote that since you have everything apart and will be properly re-assembling it, that you put everything back where you know is supposed to go and then see what happens.