Mn_Z_Man

I think the clips you are talking about are ones you need to remove to take the joint apart. Also, they are not all the same thickness, as they are used center the joint in the yoke. I don't think the different thickness's are availible anymore- I took my axles to a shop and had them balanced afterward. Mine were really hard to get out, much harder than I remember on the last car I did years ago. I would probably just take it to a shop next time. Also a good time to take apart, grease and clean your slip joint as well, would advise using the FSM on that one, as those parts are NLA as well. Eric

Thanks for all the useful ideas. So we're roughly evenly split between springs and shocks-obviously both will affect the ride, its a question of balance between the two. Sounds like the tociko blue and HP spring combo is about as stiff as it gets. So I'm assuming the Eibach springs are less stiff than mine, but stiffer than stock. How about KYB G2 struts with my Tociko springs? I guess either way I'm in for either new springs or new struts. How is the ride height and quality with KYB's and stock springs? The KYB's are advertised as a lower pressure strut, is it quite a bit lower than the Tockio's (which are pretty stiff)? One of these combo's is going in, just want to increase my odds of being closer this time, with out getting the "4X4" look I have seen in some Z's. Also, bushings are all new polyurethane- I'm sure they are contributing to some of the stiffness, hoping not too much cause they were a grunt to get in! Thanks again. Eric

2 years ago I redid the suspension- bushing's, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks and springs. Went with the Tociko HP kit, the blues. Well, after daily driving last summer, I am seriously considering switching back to a more stock ride- for my taste, the HP combo is just too stiff for daily driving. I suspect the springs are probably biggest culprit in the bone-jarring feel. Could I go back to my stock springs and keep the tociko struts, or is that a bad idea? My guess is the ride height would go up due to the heavy gas charge in the struts- true? Should I just go back to stock springs and KYB G2 struts? The only other stock-type strut I can find is Monroe- any one have any experience with them? thanks Eric

One of each model, no 2+2's or auto's, bone stock, and one each of the same, decked out in period correct street rod form- and a 1999 twin turbo, burgundy, with black suede. Now back to work.

OK, assuming you got it right initially, one other oddity you don't hear mentioned much is that the marks on the sprockets and bright links will only match up UNTIL you turn them. They will not line up again until you turn the crank something like 12 times (can't remember the exact number). Also, not sure if your slack side chain guide is installed properly- it doesn't look like its touching the chain. If that is true, then you won't be able to set is correctly- when the tensioner and the guide are installed right, there is not much slack in the chain, probably no a whole "tooth" worth like you seem to have. Search a bit, someone has posted some nice pics of the correct setup. Eric

like INF said, and be ready for a couple loud bangs when they fully seat on your first trip out of the garage- can be startling, sounds like something broke.

Thanks Lazeum and John, that was exactly what I was was try to get to. Your build is even similar to what I am planning. I've got an N42 block with an N47 head I picked up used. I also have a fresh rebuilt stock E88 off my L24. I'm trying to do the mix and match thing, with flat top pistons on the table if needed, or the E88 head, but that has smaller valves. I have found several nice write-ups, was just looking for some actual experience with similar builds. Lazeum, do you feel your triples were worth the extra cost over SU's? I've got about $2500 to spend, and triples would eat up a lot of that (new, anyway)- SU's would leave more for other goodies.

Hey all, I'm getting ready to start a 280 NA street build, and am wondering how to pick a compression ratio. Is it worth it to target, say 10:1 (head/piston swap), over the stock 9:1, all other things being equal? I know that going too high will cause problems, but aren't most high output na motors around 10.5:1? thanks Eric

Your're right, that is book for modifying, I meant the Monroe book about rebuilding the L-series datsun engine- my bad.

The reason you can't replace them easily is the u-joint caps are swaged into the yokes- take a close look, you'll see what I mean. You probably just need to take it to a shop, where they will know how to deal with it, and what to replace them with. good luck

You may have knocked loose some crud in your fuel system, that is now stuck somewhere it shouldn't be. Start with the fuel filter, should be easy. If that works, great, if not I would suggest a complete fuel system check from the tank to the carbs, including your pickup line, return line, electronic fuel pump, manual fuel pump, filter screens on the carbs, and float and needle valve assembly. Also confirm your spark just to make sure its not your coil or something and the timing with the Seafoam is a coincidence. Eric

welcome to the world of restoration. In addition to the above, heat from a propane torch can help as well, just be safe if using it under the hood. Use a big vicegrip on the stub while its still hot.

hybridZ.org is really the place to get started for engine swaps- read the stickies before posting. E

most people think a turbo scavenged from a 280zxt is the best bang for the buck for serious gains in a mainly stock and streetable configuration. most other mods are expensive per HP gained (stroker) or require lots of related mods to get the power (cam carbs, headers, compression etc). Just my 2 cents, chime in if you have other experiences.

you need to be more specific about the intended use of the car, the approach you want to take, how much you have to spend, Also spend a little time searching, there are dozens of good Z sites with tips, ideas, and people documenting their projects. This type of forum is for answering specific questions. have fun Eric