motorman7

Yes, I think that is what I will do. Thanks for the confirmation.

So....I am actually thinking about selling this one. It is really a tough decision. The problem is that my wife and I have too many vehicles and not really enough space. Currently I own 8 cars and a camping trailer, yet I only have a 3 car garage and live in a cul-de-sac in the suburbs. To ease the situation, I have one car at the Petersen museum in LA, one at my mother in laws place, and one at the paint shop. Eventually the museum car and the one at the body shop will need to come back home so I need to make a little room. (Also, selling the Z will help pay for my wife's new toy, a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk. She puts up with all my cars so she really deserves it.) Anyway, trying to decide between BAT or eBay for the sale....or just keeping it and paying for storage. Tough choice. I will clean her up and take a bunch of pics this weekend and see how I still feel about selling.

Really had a great time at ZCON 2018. Unfortunately, I was only able to take in a couple days at the start of the event. Best part was meeting the guys here at classiczcars.com and putting faces to the names. It was great talking cars an was and awesome event. My thanks to the clubs that put on the event, thanks for all the hard work. Best regards, Rich PS: of course I had to bring the GQ mag for signatures ?

Yes, not sure how close I was. I think I had a score of 276. Also missed a couple easy points but it was a great learning experience. Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I got marked off for that patch when they judged my 1970 car at ZCON 2013. Didn't find out about it until I received the judges sheet months later. Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Wife and I will be at car show today around noonish. We will also be doing the brewery event tonight as well. Should be fun Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No, just the dash. I will have to check to see if they do glove box doors. That would be convenient.

Yes, the VIN tag is part of the frame. The edge of the new cover tucks under it nicely.

Got the trip reset dial in, dash light dimmer, flashers,and cigarette lighter in. All were easy to install except for the cig lighter. There was some foam in the area that needed to be removed, otherwise it was all pretty straight forward. I also installed the super bright LED bulbs. We will see how those work. I figure with the dimmer switch we can always turn those down if they are a bit bright. Still haven't sent the clock out yet. We will go with the quartz mechanism on that as it is very accurate and reliable.

I like the fact that the engine has not been messed with (much) and the 77K miles is probably legit based on the engine pic. Also looks very original except for a few minor details. (Granted the over all body pics and underside pics are poor and would effect the value) This is exactly the type of car that I look for when doing a restoration. It would be worse if it had a cheap $1K paint job and looked pretty pretending to be a Category 2, hiding what is underneath. Too often this is what is sold in most cases. I rarely buy a pretty face. I want a complete, hardly touched package complete with warts. And Hagerty is so out of touch with the Z community. There are 1970 Z's selling for $100k and over among private parties. Let them value the US muscle cars; because they are a bit behind the times with the Japanese cars.

Now it is more reasonably priced, was $22K. The engine bay is pretty impressive on this one

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/d/1970-original-240z/6720963532.html I think this is a steal.

Put the dash harness and instruments (minus the clock) into the 'Vintage Dashes' dash. The fit was very good. Now I need to get the clock fixed in addition to adding new holes for the flasher switch, cig lighter and dimmer. LED dash bulbs have been ordered and should be here in a day or two. Had a friend join me during the assembly. You don't see too many Praying Mantis's out here in CA.

Not a dumb move at all...you will probably have a few more that shear off. It is pretty typical of the older cars. And, I have had that exact same bolt shear off on me as well. The threads were totally disintegrated, so I had to drill and re-tap the hole. A good tap set is a very useful item on these. Keep up the good work.

I assembled the front shock struts today. Interesting thing about the '73 Z is that they have a rubber bellows assembly that goes over the strut, inside of the spring. I have not seen these before. The original bellows were toast so I ordered some new ones from Rock Auto. They are a bit hard to see since they are inside the spring, but they look real cool. Also got new lower ball joints and sprayed those with a clear coat along with the threaded studs at the top of the strut assembly.

Wow, that is very organized. I do not record things to that extent. Typically, when I take off a part, I will photograph the item with the fasteners. That way I know what fasteners hold which parts. As a last resort, I always have my '70 as a reference. Typically, since the plater will mix all the parts together, the only thing I take care to do (besides the pics) is to put the yellow zinc in one box and the silver zinc in another box. I do take quite a few pics of the disassembled parts with fasteners. I probably only post about one-tenth of all the pics I actually take.

Sav-On plating in Phoenix. I put all the parts in large zip-loc freezer bags and use two large USPS boxes. Yellow zinc and silver zinc need to be bagged separately and are processed separately (and charged separately). Minimum lot charge is $140 so load up the bags.

Yes, I have the same problem as well. I only do my own plating when I have a small quantity of small parts.

I have had to do my share of drilling and tapping on broken and stripped screw...it happens. I like 'Newco Products' for the fuel lines and clamps are typically from e-bay or ones that I have collected over the years.

The parts would not develop much rust from the time that the parts are stripped until the plater receives the parts. The acid dip that the plater does would be enough to to remove any mild surface rust that developed in the time frame between the stripping and the plater processing the parts. Usually less than one week. (This is the way I used to process parts with the old plating shop) That being said, I am now using a new shop that does a better job and I send them parts that are somewhat dirty, greasy and rusty. ( I do a quick wire wheel strip on parts that are especially bad, otherwise I just toss them in the shipping box). All paint must be removed, but light grease/oil and rust is acceptable to them. The new shop processes the crappy parts and their work is impressive. Their work is consistent and looks to be the correct color, shine and rainbowing. The cost is $140 for as much as you can squeeze into a Large USPS shipping box. It really is a great deal. It is worth it just for the time it saves me at the wire wheel. Plus, my fingers and limbs are still in tact.

That's funny. Trying to get my head around that.

Today I installed the 'Vintage Dash' 240Z dash onto the dash frame. This is a first time install for me and it seemed to go fairly well. Removing all the instruments and wiring, removing the old dash and installing the new dash took less than 3 hours. It is was not too difficult. In regards to the fit, the dash fit very well on the frame. It was a bit snug and required exerting some force to hold the dash to the frame while screwing things together, but that is the way it should be. The holes in the dash lined up well with the frame and I had no issues. I would however, recommend clearing the dash screw holes before putting the dash over the frame. The holes can be a bit hard to locate if you try to find them when you have the dash over the frame. I was very tempted to use some spray adhesive, but there was not any on the original (except near the glove box) so I went without glue. The look and fit are very good. I like the shape of the dash over the water, oil and clock instruments and the texture is reasonable. It still does not match the original, but does look very good. The only negative comment I have about the dash is that they should have left flaps around the glove box and the heater cutout similar to the original. Neither of these areas is visible until you open the glove box, then you will see that the dash flaps do not go over the glove box stiffening rails. What I will probably do here is spray the flanges black and put some black silicon in the gap between the dash and the flange. That way the missing flaps will not be so obvious. Otherwise, the dash looks great. I will post about the instrument fit when I get to that step. The cost here is about half the cost of 'Just Dashes' and the appearance is great. I would also say that it is easier to install the 'Vintage Dashes' dash than it is to package up your dash and ship it to 'Just Dashes'. Pics are below. Also, I am guessing that @jayhawkhad some work done on his Tachometer or someone in Japan is Psychic

More suspension pics

I adjusted the valves on the motor and added a few more of the plated parts. Started working on the suspension assembly. I should have all of the suspension pre-assembled before the body gets back from the paint shop. Ordered some new ball joints today along with the shock/strut bellows, rack and pinion bellows and tie rod ends.

I will be there with my wife (Yvonne) for the first couple days. After that we are playing tourist in Savannah, SC and NC. Flying in on the 16th