motorman7

Hi Adam, Yes, the car is completely stock and untouched, except for some recent rubber hoses (seen in pics) and belt. Even the plug wires are original with 1970 stamped on them. I think the color looks better in the pics than in real life. The pic is taken after wax, before show. Rich

Thanks for the advise. I will take as many pics as I can (without getting the camera too dirty)

Why take apart a perfectly good Z?:paranoid: I guess it's because its time. After almost 40 years of oxidation and corrosion the engine needs a bit of sprucing up. I will start dissassembling today and get the zinc plated parts cleaned and replated. Wow, there are a lot of zinc plated parts. I am plannning on doing most of the cleaning myself and then taking the parts down to Les at Classic Datsun for a final clean and plating. Looks like the brake and clutch lines will need to go as well. Unfortunate because I just got the brakes working great (rears were not operating for a period of time). I am still debating on the braided hose, but leaning towards braided. Still have most of them so I think I can make that happen. Anyway, will keep this updated with pics. Here are the before pics.

I would be interested as well. My only concern would be that there are a number of other engine compartment hoses that would need the same treatment. This would include the two heater hoses, brake assist vaccuum hoses, etc. It would be best if all of the hoses matched. Not sure if these are available at all on line.

Well, that fixed the problem. I installed a "major" rebuild kit from Tokico (Same manufacturer of Master Cylinder) and the rear brakes finally bleed and brake. Of course, its the last item I check. Worked from back to front fixing parts. Anyway, I feel good about the whole system now that I have gone through it. By the way, the rebuild kit was so cheap that I thought it would be cheap chinese garbage. Purchased from Classicgarage.com for $23. The pleasant surprise was the manufacturer-same as original. Best of luck on your Z brakes there. Rich

I currently have the same problem with my '70. I cleaned and exercised the proportioning valve; honed and lubed the rear brake cylinders (they were froze); and still no luck. The front brakes work great, the rears do not operate. Fluid drains from rear brake reservoir when rear brake lines are open, and even fills system when 'bleeding', but no pressure. I just got a 'major' rebuild kit for the Master Cylinder and will replace that tonite. I am hoping that solves the problem. Not much left to the system. Only the junction that has the brake warning light.

As the new owner of the 240Z noted in the article, I honestly have to say that I had no idea what I had until I took it to the show and spoke with people there. After hearing what people had to say, I realize that the car is a true gem. I am looking forward to taking great care of it as my father did and enjoying its beauty and design. I appreciate all the words of wisdom and advice here. Very helpful. Best Regards, Rich

I didn't like it at first, but it is really growing on me. I figure it will come back in style 10 years from now

Sorry about the link Carl, it was one click away on "continue reading" button. Complet link listed below: http://www.zcarblog.com/2009/05/13/events/solvang-to-msa-and-back-part-2.html#more-1899

Coverage of the 2009 MSA event is now up on the Z Car Garage Blog section. http://www.zcarblog.com/ I got a nice write-up on the L-Series 240Z section so I had to share. Rich

1999 Olds Aurora, V8 32 valve, dual over head cams; and leather seats. Painted in 'don't ticket me' White. Rich

Thanks Randy, that is good to know. I will see Bob up at the Murietta show in a couple of week, so it will give us some time to compare notes. I did not see his engine, only the exterior. Went by too late. I did park my car next to his after the awards and got some pics . I filed them in the MSA 2009 folder. Thanks again for the info. Best Regards, Rich

Thanks! Yes those are pics taken this month in prep for the 2009 MSA show. The car took 2nd in the 240Z OEM category (first car show I've ever entered). Dad said he spent as much time cleaning the wheel wells as he did the car. It was his baby. Glad he entrusted it to me. I will try and take just as good a care as he did.

Hi Dan, Thanks for the info. I phoned Mike McGinnis at Banzai Motorworks and gave him the car details and history. He said that it may indeed have been produced without decals given the early production date. I most likely will not do anything. Dad was pretty meticulous about the details of the car so most likely they were never there. Best Regards, Rich

Thanks for the confirmation on this. I will leave the air cleaner as is then. Rich

My 3/70 build 240Z has no decals on the air cleaner. The car is in excellent condition and all very original (original paint, dash, interior, etc). I called dad, who is the original owner and he says it never had a decal on the air cleaner. Does this sound right? He is 87 years old so not sure how good his memory is. I have read some of the other air cleaner/decal threads and saw mention of air cleaners without decals (but no pictures), air cleaners with one decal, and air cleaners with two (which seems most common). Any thoughts on this? I don't really want to create another decal thread. I would just like confirmation that the 'no decal' air cleaner is legit. Thanks!

I had to laugh when I saw the title of this thread because it reminded me of when I went to pick the Z up from my folks. They stored the car in a barn (a nice barn with cement floor) for a long period of time. As I was working under the hood replacing the old rubber hoses and belts, I saw several areas where there were chunks of green stuff. Turns out they put mouse/rat poison in the corners of the engine compartment. I thought it was very funny at the time. Really glad they did after reading your story. Rich

Not on the walls and hood, motor only. I would be concerned about the effects of the spray on the paint of the engine walls and hood. I actually used Maguires cleaner wax to clean the engine walls and under the hood. It worked great.

Someone here earlier recommended that spray on mag cleaner for the engine (and trans housing). I used it and it works better than any engine cleaner I have ever used.