motorman7

Got those from Harbor Freight for $48 after the 20% discount with coupon ?. They had cheaper ones, but these ones had the wheel locks which I preferred.

Put most of the front suspension in, except for the sway bar bushings. Also put in some of the other attaching hardware. Here are some pics. Pics look a little better with the natural light. May try and get the rear suspension in tomorrow.

Got my parts shipment in from Zcardepot. Firewall insulator, glove box, emblems, spindle pins and lots of small rubber parts. It's the little details that make everything look great. Still having a hard time getting the pics to come out well. I have to use the flash, otherwise all I get is reflection.

Got two of the Bridgestones mounted, 175/80R14's. That's pretty hard to find.

Never thought of that. (not sure if I've ever seen that) Would only be an issue for the back side. Maybe I'll hit it with some gloss clear just in case. Wouldn't hurt and would actually make it easier to clean Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Technique is pretty old school. No vapor blasting here. For the Back side which was pretty caked, I attached an old wire wheel from my bench grinder to my Makita angle grinder. It worked great. Plenty of power and RPM's. It cut through the corrosion pretty quick without eating up the aluminum. Then I Used my cordless drill with the little conical wire brush attachment and got the crevices. For the front, I used small wire wheels on the slots. Then I used sandpaper, then polishing compound, then Mothers Power Ball to finish out. I used 220 grit on the road rash that was on the lip. Otherwise it takes forever to smooth things out. Then I used 500, then 1000, then 1500 grit on the entire front of the rim. I sanded mostly in a radial direction. Then used the Dark Gray polishing compound with polishing wheel attached to my $18 Harbor Freight 3000 RPM corded drill. After that I went over it again with the finer white polishing compound. After that I used the Mothers power ball along with the Mothers polish and then wiped clean. It takes about 2 hours per wheel going through the whole process. Also use the sandpaper and polish on the slots. So, that's it.

Cleaning and polishing the aluminum mags now. The back side was pretty corroded. Cleaned it up a bit before taking to Discount Tire to have the old tires removed. With the tires removed, I will start polishing these up.

True. And as @jayhawk noted above, sounds like some re-builders don't see the filter as necessary.

I am pretty impressed that you have two 'reasonable' looking filters here. Of the 6 carbs that I had at my disposal, 4 of the filters were completely disintegrated. And, I think your two are better than mine. It will probably be about a month before I put the carbs on so I have a little time to piece something together before then. Below are pics of the SST 60, 80 and 150 mesh. The 150 mesh appears to be more like the brass mesh size. The 80 mesh (in the middle) is actually pretty nice because it has reasonably small holes and is still somewhat stiff. The 150 mesh has opening size of .0041" while the 80 mesh is .006", 50 mesh is .011".

These are probably pretty close. Made these at my desk at work. Also, looks like stainless steel would work well in a gasoline environment. http://hayata.com/stainless-steel-chemical-resistance-chart-f-l/

Painted the engine bay front panels satin black. Also installed a few more parts; coil bracket & hood prop (Just a side note: with fresh paint, pretty much all holes need to be re-tapped before installing screws, otherwise they don't go in very well ?). Polished up and installed the trim that goes on the rain gutters. Also cleaned up the spare and set it in it's compartment. @Captain Obvious you were right about the filter being too long. I set it in the carb and it is pretty close to the threads as you can kind of see in the picture. Looks like I will need to find a different method.

So here is a side-by-side pic of the Original Carb filter and the Injector filter sent by @grannyknot. Looks like this may work if the injector filter is not too long (I guess I could file some to make it fit lengthwise if needed). From the carb design, it looks like the open end of the Carb filter is 'capped' by the bolt that holds it in place. Since that is the case, looks like the closed end of the injector filter will be OK as is. It's actually a nice design for filter replacement since you just remove the short bolt on the side of the carb to access the filter. I checked the filters in some of the other carbs and they were pretty much completely disintegrated. I guess that happens with age. I know, the challenges that we here in San Diego face with our weather is tough. If its not 80 degrees and sunny, we have a hard time with things. I think there has been a run on jackets at Costco...and I have to wear socks.

Yes, saw your car there last week. Looks like a great project. Second lowest Z VIN I have seen in person. I think HLS30-000222 is the lowest that I have seen personally.

Thanks for the link. @grannyknotis sending me some injector filters that look very close to the correct size. Will show side by side pics with the original filters when they come in.

The stuff I just bought and do not like is the Rust-oleum brand. It did not 'crinkle-up' well at all. It went on almost like thick paint. I had to double check the label to make sure I grabbed the right stuff. Might have been because it is a bit cold and damp here in San Diego, but it just did not come out well. I tried the new brand because it was a package deal on Amazon with free delivery. I will go back to the dupli-color brand which I have used on all the previous vehicles. The texture is much more consistent. Of course, now I need to cover up the parts that have been installed.

Yes, I had the original fuel lines replated. I had to bend the long tubes into thirds to fit in the 48" plating tank. I put a large radius bend in two locations, approximately thirds, to prevent the tubes from kinking. I bent them back after they came back from plating. The bend locations are in the tunnel so not highly visible. I stuck with the black because that is what the car was originally. I tried a different brand of undercoat, but am not very happy with it. It is not producing consistent texture. Will go back to my old brand and redo most of the areas. Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Got the rest of the brake lines in, fuel lines and most of the emergency brake.

Not sure why I am getting so much reflection. I tried a few more pics using my LED light and no flash. Color looks a little better but paint is almost mirror like. check out the reflection on the right of the second pic. That's weird. Obviously, I am not a photographer.

Finished the complete underside with POR-15, then added undercoat. Started assembly. Put on the 4 struts and started the brake line installation. Camera does not do the car justice. Not sure why the plating looks too silverish....paint too glossy.

Next step is coating the underside with POR-15 and then spraying on the undercoat over that. The underside was sandblasted at the paint shop so a good portion of the old undercoating is gone with a lot of bare metal showing. I did not remove all of the old undercoating since the underside is in pretty nice condition. I got most of the passenger side done this evening.

OK, she is safely back home. The paint looks amazing, better than the pictures. Looking forward to finishing up the underside and then installing parts. The air intake ducts look amazing. Too bad no one will see them.

My 1970 Z has been in the family for nearly 49 years (4/70 build date). I was 9 years old when my dad brought the car home brand new and I distinctly remember the day. It was purchased in Florida (I have the original receipt), where dad worked on occasion, but driven to California where we lived for a number of years. My dad owned it and took excellent care of the car for about 38 years. He passed the car onto me several years before he passed away. The car is very original and mostly unrestored (I did clean up the engine bay). The paint is the original 49 year old factory paint job. The interior is pretty much untouched and still has the original uncracked dash, slightly worn seats, radio, carpet etc. Undercarriage, glass, chrome, and weather stripping are also all original and have never been removed. I don’t really do anything to the car other than drive it several times a year just to stretch it’s legs and keep things moving. It has pretty much been garaged it's entire life. The car still runs very smoothly and is a nice driver. It has a little over 98K miles on it.

Paint (clearcoat) is finished with color sanding and is now being polished. Will pick up car this Wednesday and get this into my garage. That is when the real fun begins.

I should update the title of this thread to 'Z cars at the Concours and Museums'. My '70 is now on display at the San Diego Auto Museum. They have an exhibit that started Feb 2, 2019 called "Icons, Cars that Drove our Imagination" : https://sdautomuseum.org/exhibit/icons The Roadster is at the Petersen Museum: https://www.petersen.org/1969-datsun-1600-roadster/ Love that free storage!

No, I leave that to the experts. Miguel at https://www.facebook.com/CustomsByMiguel/ does all the body work and paint. He is pretty amazing...and a bit slow, but worth the wait.