motorman7

The 2.4% for Wuhan/Covid is way off. Currently with 600K daily infections and 10K deaths, it is roughly 1 in 60, which would be 1/60 or 1.6%. However, the daily infections number is only those that are tested and confirmed. Those with virus that are either asymptomatic or not sick enough to go get tested would make that 1.6% much lower. I would bet that with 600k detections, there are another 400K or more that are probably not detected but walking the streets. A guy I worked on the line with 11 days ago recently tested positive. He did not feel any symptoms really at all, but had to get tested because his daughter tested positive on a test before she could go to school. So I am 'in quarantine' working from home here for the next 3 days. If the guys daughter had not tested positive, and she had no symptoms, my co-worker would never have gone to get tested. Wonder how much that is going on across the US and world.

So true, cancer survivors can certainly attest to that. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Got both fenders in along with the lights. Will get hood and front valence next Saturday. Also got a stock radio from the owner and repaired the harness. Fortunately I had another radio to check for length verification and amazingly had a spare radio connector end in my box of Z stuff.

ZCSD was invited to see the new Z prototype at the Nissan Design Center in San Diego so I took a few pics

I got all the fluids replaced and brakes 'mostly' bled. I would take it for a spin in the cul-de-sac but it's raining out. Maybe it will clear up a bit later.

Yes, those are the ones I use. I get a 30" black cable for '+' and 25" black cable for '-' and cut off the straight terminals. Got the cables from Pep Boys. I use 10Ga wire for the negative to firewall. Strip about 1.25" of insulation off the cable and insert into the right angle terminal end. I then screw a 1" long #10 flat head woodscrew to secure the wire in the new terminal. Then melt solder into end to seal and finish. I have found some rubber terminal covers but they are a bit too large. I think vintagerubber used to sell a set, but they were crazy expensive, over $200 I think. This costs me under $50.

I would replace...they are cheap. Just a bit of work/contortion to get the pin out under the dash.

I will try to get back to you on this later today. I typically use a small Kenwood speaker. They come 2 in a pack. The important item is that it is a 4 ohm speaker, similar to the original. I made some new battery cables with the right angle connectors. Also added the voltage regulator and fusible link. Put some gas in the tank and once the fuel got to the engine, she started right up, although very rough. Did a little trouble shooting and found that the rear carb float bowl was dry as a bone, so it was pretty much just running on 3 cylinders. Turns out the float bowl valve was stuck closed, so I just disassembled and cleaned it and put it all back together. Car is now running much smoother. So I know you're all asking yourselves, "Where did Rich get the new rubber for that front bumper. It is simply not available for the 1973 model bumpers". Since you were all wondering about that, what I did was order the rear 1973 rear bumper rubber since it is fairly long. I drilled 3 new holes in the front bumper for the rubber attachment studs and it installed pretty cleanly. The original hole nearest the bumperette actually lined up which saved me one hole. Anyway, pretty happy with how that turned out. Now if I can just get some of the final vinyl pieces. I need the rear diamond vinyl behind the seats and the floor vinyl/rubber that goes over the drivers and passenger threshold. 20201106_205548.mp4

Continuing the interior work. Got the center console vinyl installed along with the dash. Have most of the electrical connections made. Also installed rear hatch weather stripping, luggage straps and speaker. Finishing up the battery cables. Should have her running this Saturday.

Got the new seat upholstery installed. Also added the brake booster and master cylinder. Got the new exhaust system installed along with a few more hoses and interior parts. Also picked up the cowl and fuel door from Miguel. Fenders and hood will be ready in two weeks.

That one looks nice, haven't seen that one before. Yes, interesting that it is also at 31K miles. The 222 car is the old Mike Sage car. It was one of the 1999 (VZ?) cars.

Ahh, interesting. Maybe Mike was the seller in 2017. I think this would coincide with his purchase of 222.

Pretty sure this is not Mike's car. I saw the owner, he was 'youngish', I would say mid 40's. Although, he probably knows Mike well since they are in the same region and the car was in Mike's museum. I am pretty sure that I know Mike's show cars. Mike has S/N HLS30-00222 which is far superior to this one.

More progress. Got the fuel tank cleaned up and installed along with the vent hoses and sender unit. Rear bumper is assembled and installed. Wiper motor and linkage installed. Got my braided hoses in, so started installing those. Added the air cleaner decals. Will order starter and alternator this week and get those in next. That gets us pretty close to starting this baby up. Still waiting for center console vinyl. Long wait for that item, over a month.

I do agree with the reflection comment, but the paint is just off....even the underside. My 70 Z without dealer undercoating is completely safari gold on the bottom, no black areas. Just looks wrong And the silver painted parts drive me up the wall. In my opinion, car was refreshed before storage, then left to patina/rust.

I would say NO to original paint. The texture/orange peel is wrong. ...unless Nissan changed there paint process for later series 1s. In contrast, I could tell in just a few pics that the $300k car was original paint...it looks like mine.

I know Mike pretty well. We see each other at a lot at the same shows. Usually we are competing against each other in the Japanese category. He does a lot to promote the Japanese car category at the higher end Auto shows which is a good thing. He typically manages the Japanese class for the San Marino motor show and is often down this way at the La Jolla car shows and at JCCS. He is pretty pleasant and honest and does a lot to support the Japanese cars. I think I met Wob briefly at the San Marino show where I also saw this car. The owner (Wob?) left his lot boy with the car and the lot boy knew very little about what original Z cars are supposed to look like, so there wasn't much to talk about. Sounded like Wob had a lot of nicer cars such as Ferrari's and Porsche's per the lot boy. Owner (Wob?) showed up at the end of the show, asked lot boy if they'd won an award and then told him to load up the car. Car did not place FWIW.

I'm a bit skeptical on original paint due to the texture of the orange peel. Seems to be too many lumps /divots per square foot. The paint texture appears to be much different that the $300K car or my original paint '70. Also wonder why the heater is bypassed...leaky core? This car is no where near the $300K car which in my opinion is the best looking Z I have ever seen, and I have been to a lot of Z shows. I actually saw this car several years ago at the San Marino motor show. My thoughts were that it would just take a few fixes to make it a really awesome car. Just wonder why it was never done, still not done.

Nice!

Forgot to add pic. This really works well for securing the vinyl.

Got the new vintage dash install. Heater panel is next.

I know most of them, but often use my library of pics or check my others Z's. Still probably get some of them wrong. Got the windshield in and trim installed. Started working on the interior-installing sound deadening material and the firewall pad, vents, hood latch, side drains. Got the 'steelies' powder coated and new Toyo's installed. Things are coming along. Will probably start doing heater and fan parts tomorrow. Also, found something that works better than clamps when doing pillar interior trim- old door weatherstipping

For plating, I think every place is different. I like Sav-On in Phoenix, but they do have their short comings. Seems like they tumble clean the parts, so the plastic and rubber can get a little beat up. That needs to be taken into consideration. Some platers require that you do all of the cleaning and they just plate. That is probably a bit easier on the rubber and plastic. Also, you have to watch out for parts with cavities. I usually bag those separately and send a note along to make sure the parts are well dried before shipping. For flexible brake hoses, I just buy new ones since they are pretty cheap. Always good to have brake lines in good condition. Got the door sound deadening in and windows with window frames. Also installed headliner and pillar vinyl. Will install windshield today.

Got the rear hatch glass installed. It was quite a challenge as it was a bit older gasket (customer provided) and somewhat stiff. Had to stretch it around the glass as the fit was tight. And, had to have my wife help me on the install, where usually I can install the rear glass in about 10 minutes (Precision brand) all by myself. On the flip side, the older gasket was a better fit and covers the corners better. Also, it had some waxy substance on it to preserve it (I think) which made it a bit messy on the install. I am thinking it was a factory gasket due to the nice fit for both the corners and the metal trim. Also installed the front and rear brake flex lines and front bumper supports. The gloss black powder coat on the bumper supports looks beautiful....very shiny.

For plating, I try to keep everything as factory stock original as possible in regard to yellow and silver. I am sure on some items I may be incorrect, but it is my best attempt to get things right. I know the earlier Z's had a little more silver items than the later Z's, so not really sure at what times the changes took place. I did notice at the 2019 ZCON, most judges had no idea what was correct so I wasn't marked off for any plating discrepancies. However, Jim Fredericks was there and was able to teach me a bit on some items that were not correct, so I try and learn from those instances. For the half shafts, since most of the original black paint is usually gone, I typically just strip and clear coat. Sometimes the metal is stained so I paint with flat aluminum and clear or plain aluminum and matte clear. I know they are supposed to be black, but it gets kind of boring under there with everything being black. So, I do take a bit of artistic license on the half shaft, as well as the back of the differential which should also be black. For the trans case, I hit it with the fiber wheel and clear coat. Wire wheels usually scratch too much. Again, if the housing is pretty stained I will paint with flat aluminum then clear coat. Also, for the valve cover, I now just clean with steel wool and phosphoric acid (wear gloves and goggles). After the cleaning, I use a little Maguires aluminum polish just as a preservative. I prefer the light bead blast look, but got dinged for that at ZCON. Ideally, I should probably look into vapor blasting for the cover. Rich