Everything posted by motorman7
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Please Help
Open the drivers side door and the production date will be on a plate just below the small triangular window. If you are HLS30-02043, I'm betting your a 3/70 production date.
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2012 West Coast Z Car Nationals
Are they serious? I have been at the last two store shows and have yet to meet an individual that prefers the show on the streets. The park was phenomenal, the store shows are lame. Why? 1) That blacktop is dog gone hot. Much nicer to have it at a park with grass and trees for shade. At the 2011 show there was a crowd (standing room only) against the side of the building which provided the only fixed shade in the area. The other crowd was in the shade provided by the RV's and the In-and-OUT truck. The park environment is orders of magnitude better and winding road to get there was sweet. The park also provides great background for photo shoots. 2) It's a waste of your time to try and get in the store to pick up something for your car. The line is 50 people deep OUTSIDE the store trying to get in to buy something. No telling how many are inside. I'll just pay the shipping and order from my house or office. 3) Parking was a fiasco. Took about 30 minutes of waiting in long line wrapped around corner to finally get parked. A lot of Z's overheating, you could smell the coolant in the parking lot after the cars finally got in. So, sorry to vent and be negative, but that's my opinion. Plus ZCON's in Phoenix in 2012. I'm goin' there.
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16*7 panasport wheels tires size recommended !!!!!!
I'm running 205/60/16 on my 16 X 7 panasports with Yokohama's. No rubbing issues. Don't remember the offset. Also running stock springs with Tokico Adjustable struts.
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Total Restoration Project. 71
Hi Guy, That area is a little tough to get to, hoods in the way. Hope this helps. You can see the brush strokes in the last couple of pics. Looks like they didn't paint in the lines well very Also looks like I need to clean the area a bit better.
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Total Restoration Project. 71
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I'm losing my mind over this...
You will also have to cap the extra waterline that runs through the flat tops. Caps at forward and aft part of motor.
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Total Restoration Project. 71
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[2011] What did you do to/with your S30 today?
I've probably seen your car more than you have these last two years. It looks great :-) . If I can remember, I will take pictures of it next time I stop by Les's place. Rich
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I'm losing my mind over this...
Anthony, should be here most of weekend. Feel free to give me a call. Rich
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I'm losing my mind over this...
Probably not the best thing to do, but I did send a short blast of air into my flat tops where the fuel line goes in after it sat for 3 years. It will spray gas out the intake end of the carb. Didn't seem to cause any damage. Make sure your choke cable is set right. Loosen the two screws that secure the choke cable at the carbs. Move the choke lever all the way forward. check that cables aren't bent or kinked and then re-tighten. This way the front and rear carbs pull evenly. Turn that big screw on the forward carb all the way closed then back it off half of a turn. This next item is critical! Make sure that the rubber tube that is just below the big forward carb screw and routes underneath to the rear carb is in very good condition. That means no leaks and no kinks. It is a balance tube and is very critical to smooth operation. Might want to check your float level thru the sight glass if you have a small mirror, although it is often hard to see. Make sure the carb needles inside your tuna cans are installed with the shoulder flush with the large piston. You may also want to open up the idle adjust screw a couple turns just for starting and re-adjust once you are warm. That should cover most of it. Also, I had a set of SM needles laying around so put those in my flat tops. Got those from Ztherapy for $30. They run very nicely. Rich
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Let's Paint it Yellow
A few seconds of Glory....don't blink...Attached is the commercial my yellow Z was in for the San Diego County fair.
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Fudge!!! @#$!!!!! someone rear ended my car
That is a bummer, the right bumper end does not look so good from your pictures. It seems like it is very hard to get good work done anymore. Best of luck there. I do like the paint color though :-)
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Am I too Rich or Lean?
That might be your problem right there. Petronix did not work well for me, though it has for others. My Petronix would miss above 4K RPM on my motor. Swapped it out for a 280zx dizzy and motor works wonderfully. I will stick with it.
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Let's Paint it Yellow
They feel very nice. A bit stiffer than before, but it gives me a better feel for the road. The kids are totally nuts over them. They think they are the coolest things ever.
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Muckenthaler Concours d'Elegance
Thanks for posting the pics of our cars Jay. They do look good, although I still think mine is better I now am beginning to think we may have this Concours and Japanese car acceptance backwards, and I wonder if we are just not taking advantage of the opportunity here. The reality of the Muckenthaler Concours show is that their committee representative came looking for US at the MSA show, not us asking to be noticed by them. I also see that the Huntington Beach Concours and Palos Verdes Concours both have categories this year for our early Japanese sports cars. Maybe we are just not taking advantage of the opportunity to be noticed. Yes, we may not get the recognition of most of the Concours vehicles, but then again, most of our cars are not in the $100K or more range. In spite of our being put off to the side a bit, both Jay and I still had a good number of people interested in our cars and lot of good conversations. So maybe the opportunity is there to be had and we are letting it slip by. I know in the SoCal area there are good number of excellent Z's. I for one hope that we will continue to promote our cars and support events that will provide us the recognition and visibility. Just my two cents. Peace Out
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Muckenthaler Concours d'Elegance
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Muckenthaler Concours d'Elegance
Jay and I went to the 2011 Muckenthaler show and were both entered in the 1978 and earlier Japanese sportscar division. The good new is that Jay and I got first and second place respectively. The bad news is that we were the only Japanese sports cars there. No Honda's, no Mazda's, no Toyota's. No other Datsun's. Oh well, nice to bring the Z's out for a little exposure. Actually, they were soaked by the rain for the first hour and then we got some beautiful sunshine. I forgot to take pics of the Z's - you've seen them enough times as it is. But I did take pics of some of the cool cars there. Here they are. Rich
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I'm losing my mind over this...
I have a '73 with flat tops and yes mine came stock with both electrical and mechanical pumps. When I first purchased the car niether fuel pump worked, but the electrical did make noise. It also sat for 3-4 years. I tried running just the electrical, because it was making noise, but found that it was not pumping at all...just making noise. I went out and bought a new mechanical pump and by-passed the electrical pump and the car started right up. The car runs great without the electrical pump. I have been operating that way for several months now. I do have plans to install the electrical eventually but right now am running fine without it. I also blew out the lines with compressed air during the whole pump replacement process to make sure all the lines were clear. Hope that helps. Rich
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1973 240Z Refreshtoration – 901 Silver
Thanks for the feedback. It's really a pleasure to fix these cars up. It's therapy for me, plus gives me a lot of satisfaction. It keeps coming back to me how I told my wife I would fix this up and sell it when I first started the project, and she knew that I would not be able to sell. I have grown quite attached to it and love seeing it in my garage. Guess my wife knows me better than I know myself sometimes. Bonzi, yes, really happy and actually surprised at how nice they run after all I had heard. I think as long as all the tubing is solid and those side accelerator pumps are in good shape, they work well. The SU's are definitely less complex, but I like the looks of these in the motor. Also, still stripping my SPL311. That one will take a year I am sure. It should be quite nice when finished though. I love the lines. Thanks again for all the support, Rich
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Let's Paint it Yellow
Got the Recarro's in my Yellow Z re-upholstered by a friend for fairly cheap, $200 each. The original cloth was pretty bad and lots of foam showing so had to do something. Matches the paint nicely. My son says I need to upgrade the sound system next. Will have to look into that eventually. Anyway, here are the seats (not screwed in yet, just shown in place). Rich
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1973 240Z Refreshtoration – 901 Silver
Thread update - Bruce at Z therapy might enjoy this: Since I've been driving the Silver Z a little bit more (getting seats re-done on Yellow Z), I decided to do a little toying around with the flat-tops. I balanced the choke cables, replaced the 38 year old balance(?) hose that was starting to go bad (that is a critical item for all flat tops owners), and put in some SM needles. Also removed the belt from the smog pump and corked the air galley so exhaust doesn't go back into the pump. What a difference. The car drives SWEET and perfect even when (California) cold. No coughs, no backfires. Good as new SU's any day. How's that saying go....once you go flat, you never go back....Just harassing the Flat-top haters. I'm a believer. Rich
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Total Restoration Project. 71
Looks incredible! Thanks for posting the pics :classic:. The paint really shows of the nice curves of the body. Nicely Done! Rich
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Total Restoration Project. 71
The suspense is killing me.....get on with the camera pics
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Firing order, timing mark, rotor position, any ideas?
You should be able to do that without removing the valve cover. If I am not mistaken, you should be able to stick your finger in the oil fill hole and feel the #1 cylinder exhaust lobe if it is timed correctly.
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Firing order, timing mark, rotor position, any ideas?
I've done that. Easy to fix though. No need to drain oil, just remove the oil pump and re-install shaft 180 degrees around. Pull distributor to get the correct angle.