motorman7

Hi Greg and Dave, Actually, the install was pretty easy once I flipped it around. Everything lines up pretty well when you flip it. All you have to do is add the hole symmetric about the center plane. Mine was a bit snug (Same as Arne mentioned), but it was a good snug. Better snug than loose. If any one ever did do another run of the mounts, it wouldn't hurt to have that hole pre-drilled. As it was, the steel was fairly soft (or my bits real sharp) and the hole was easy to drill. Best Regards, Rich

I am guessing it's at the Ecology Part recycling center on Energy way in Chula Vista. They had 4 or 5 decent 280Z there a couple weeks ago. Picked up my curved mustache there. Rich

Very impressive. The chrome heat shield is a nice touch!

I would really like to get #2614 there. Looking for a trailer as Nashville is pretty far from San Diego. Rich

Here's pics of the install. Note the mount is installed differently than conventional due to my addition of the curved mustache on the 71Z. Rich

I'll try and post some pics in the next day or two. Was really rushing last night to finish up so I could take it work this AM. Also need to clean up some of the oil under there. Looks like I have small transmission leak:ermm:

In addition to installing the R-T Mount on my 71Z yesterday, I also installed the curved mustache bar and curved rear link cross member to move the differential back about 1.5inches. The install took a while, about 5 hours, due to some minor complications. I think the install of the mount would have been pretty easy if I had not moved the differential aft to align it with the rear axles (a 70 and 71Z issue). With the differential shifted back, the GM mount was too far aft of the RT mount. The fix was to flip the RT bracket around and add a hole, symmetric to the center of the bracket, on the other side. By doing this, the bracket and the mount were able to align. The RT mount was a tight fit, but not bad, into the drive shaft tunnel area. I used a hand jack to lift up the assembly and insert the 4 bolts. I also removed the fuel line clamp. I still need to do a little adjusting and testing. I need to tilt the nose of the differential up to better align with the drive shaft axis. Also, need to see if that wicked vibration that I used to get at 90 mph is gone. Too much traffic on the freeway this AM to test. Thanks again Dave for the mount! Rich

Sounds like two issues to me. First off; Slowing down when you push the throttle sounds like you are too far advanced. I am guesing you would hear a bit of pinging at mild load, heavy load and you slow. For the rough idle, check the float bowl level. I adjusted mine the other day and it made a world of difference at idle, and at speed. Just my thoughts, Rich

Nevermind, plenty of re-furbs available at auto parts dealers

Any idea on where to get a new one, or at least a re-furbed booster. I have the same issue here.

Before adjusting my SU float bowl levels yesterday, I disconnected the spark plug wire attached to the coil. While turning the engine over to operate the mech fuel pump I hear a sparking noise coming from the coil. My thoughts at the time were, "gee, that's interesting, I probably don't want to get too close to that". After the bowl's were adjusted, I got in and took the car for a spin. I immediately noticed no tach movement (very little anyway:disappoin). I am guessing my spark was going into the green the wire that leads to the tach. Bummer, that means something in there is toast. So will have to pull this out and get it fixed eventually. From readin other threads, looks like I can pull it out the front of the dash by undoing two screws. Can get it fixed for $40 - $60. Wrote this just as a warning for those disconnecting plug wire from coil. Not the best place to make that disconnect. Rich

No problem for Frankie here in CA. 1975 and older vehicles, you can do anything you want. They don't even ask for smog cert for registration when they are that old. I know, I registered a '70 and '71 this year. He's in a 1972...clear sailing. Rich

No disappointment here at all. I really enjoyed following your whole adventure. It brought back some great memories. As for SoCal, I love it! I have lived here most of my life and there are not too many places I'd rather be. I grew up in Redondo Beach and am now settled in San Diego. Best weather on earth and some of the best roads. Skiing and surfing both well within reach. No plans to move anywhere else. Best wishes in your endeavors, Rich

A zinc plating kit is what I told my wife I want for Xmas this year, only I am looking at the kit from Caswell. I hope to be plating by early next year. Rich

I was very tempted. If it had perfect frame rails and the engine bay plaque it would be in my garage right now. I have two already, one that still needs plenty of attention, so best I let this one go. Very original though in many ways, which is getting pretty rare. Best Regards, Rich

I checked out the Z on Craigslist and took some photo's. The car is a 7/70 build, S/N#HLS30-06947(Not sure on the last two digits, might be dislexic and forgot to take pics of door jam tag :-|). The Engine tag was missing, but most likely it is the original engine. Engine S/N is roughly 3K higher than the Car S/N which is correct for the early 70 vehicles. Engine is very original with a number of 40 year old hoses still on the car. Smog equip looks to be operational. Radiator and fan look like they have been replaced. The engine also has the original E31 head. Nice valve cover! Car was originally 920 Safari gold. Looks like it was painted red, then again with the current titanium metallic paint. (Visions of Antiques Roadshow Faux pas dancing thru my head). Paint job was done well though with no noticable runs or overspray. Bumpers were descent, but missing some parts. Owner installed new seals all around. Tires and rims are also very nice. Drivers side frame rail is not too bad, but the passenger side rail is pretty beat up with a major rust hole in the back end, about the size of a silver dollar. Some rust under the battery tray, but not real bad. Rear hatch area looked good, also had new seal. Radio was missing, seats have been re-upholstered, but done well with no tears. One panel was missing in hatch area. Interior is mostly original. Three deep cracks on the dashboard. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/1464650515.html FWIW, Rich

Aaahhh, it's not sold. I called the guy up and will check it our tomorrow. The paint is an odd color (not original Dasun Color). He says the original was 'mustard', so I'm guessing it's the 920 gold. He was not sure if engine was original or not. That's usually not a good sign but we will see. He has only had it for a short while. Will report back tomorrow. Rich http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/1464650515.html

WOW, looks like it was a steal. That sold pretty fast. I hope it went to an owner that will take good care of it. Rich

I saw that one. If anyone is interested, I can check it out and report back with pics. Ramona is only about 15 miles from me. I have 2 already and no more garage space, so will have to pass on this one. Rich

Maybe I missed it in the earlier posts, but did you try to remove the manifold nuts and they did not come off? I recently pulled the exhaust and intake manifold off of a 39 year old Z and a recently rebuilt Z. No problem with either one. Just used a good Craftsman 12mm socket with extension for most of the nuts and 12mm box end for those the socket couldn't reach. Wasn't that hard. Rich

Can we use Paypal?

I doubt that it is and most likely it is not for a number of reasons. First off, a patent application will run you anywhere from $5K - $10K and typically takes more than a year to receive. In addition, there is a patent "annual maintenance fee" of $500 to $1000. Financially, I don't think it would make sense for him. It would also have to be proven unique and different from exisitng designs (which it is, or may be, but again, this has to be technically proven and agreed to by the patent office). It is not an easy process. And if it is challenged, and I beleive it would be, then it gets more costly. Second, now that the mount has been "produced and advertised", it is not patentable as it qualifies as "existing art". I did a quick patent search (http://www.patentstorm.us) and did not find this mount defined. I did notice that some of the patents on differential mounts were filed by the big boys (Mercedes Benz, Hyundai). That's a different league and not sure many are capable of competing/challenging them. I am doubting that the earlier mounts had any patent pending info or paperwork on them which would also be required. Just my thoughts. Rich

I'm looking for one for my 71Z...Haven't heard a response from him in over a week on the Hybrid thread.

The only issue you may have is with the date code for the Radiator decal near the upper hose neck. I believe the code of the decal is for a December 70 build date , "0 & L". If that's the date of your Z Mfg your in luck. Rich

I have to say Dave, I was a little taken a back at your comments regarding driving habits...until I looked at what you were driving. Yes, I must say, I would drive your motor much different than I drive mine. I posted our engines both below just for reference. I would most likely drive engine A as you explained and engine B as I explained. I guess it's just a matter of reference and personal preference. Best Regards, Rich