LeonV

I'm assuming all the sharp edges will be filleted before being sent out for production? Curious what the mass is as well?

I did a lot of writing on runner tuning over on HybridZ back when I had more time on my hands. The physics apply no matter the engine. Results are very dependent on setup, cam timing has a lot to do with it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105783-ideal-intake-runner-taper/

Maybe my eyes are getting old but this looks awfully video-gamey to me 😉 They're pretty realistic these days: https://www.bsimracing.com/raceroom-nissan-300zx-gto-and-mustang-imsa-gto-previews/

I suspect it's because MSA wants you to spend more money on an expensive clutch. I run a 10lb Fidanza with an OEM 225mm clutch behind an L28 that makes about 200whp/185lb-ft. It's been in for nearly 8 years now with no issues. Engagement is buttery and the lighter flywheel really just requires quicker shift timing. The gearing and low-end torque of the L28 make taking off no problem, unless you have a numb left foot. I also run an 8lb flywheel + OEM clutch on my street/track S2000 with great results. It did make for a slight increase in NVH (gear rattle) and requires a bit more revs to get moving but its 4 cylinder engine generally has less inertia than the L6 and less torque so is more sensitive to flywheel mass. With that said, it's nothing but a joy to drive.

@spitz17 in case you might be interested 🙂

I recall using this to my advantage on my old car with Megajolt ignition. The larger offset ZX fan made room for the trigger wheel and sensor.

So you have tried cranking with foot-to-floor for 5-10 seconds? You should first check your fuel level. This is best done by removing one of the main jet stacks and measuring from the shelf down to the fuel. It should be no less than 25mm. When you do that, also record your main jet/etube/air jet as well as idle jet. What's your displacement and cam? My Z has no heat shield and no header wrap of any kind, I have no issues with hot starts although I typically crack the pedal a bit. This is typical of a carburetted car.

If you open the throttle fully and crank, will it eventually start? Say after 5 seconds of cranking with the pedal all the way down. If you open the hood before the hot restart, do you notice fuel dripping from the air horns? This sounds like a flooding issue either due to fuel siphoning, too rich of a mixture, or both. If the car restarts with the throttle floored, then we can look deeper into why it might be flooding.

I've been considering doing seats on mine for a while now although I don't want anything contemporary. The old-school Nissan comp seat is a no-go unfortunately, too small for me. I'd love to find a comfortable yet supportive and period-looking seat. Something like the Recaro PP Classic but with a more '70s feel rather than the '80s vibe those put out. I haven't come across anything that meets my criteria yet but admittedly, I haven't looked very hard.

Awesome. I just got back from AZ, imagine I'll be there fairly often. You still with Ford?

Jeff, it sounds like you're moving near some proving grounds... 🙂

These forums would get a lot more interesting if they became Zoom meetings. Although on second thought, I'm sure it would then quickly descend into what every webcam-based chat room eventually succumbs to... We're lucky to have people on a public forum with passion and knowledge which they are willing to share. People come from various backgrounds and cultures which is difficult to see behind a keyboard. If we all took things a bit more light-heartedly, we wouldn't get so offended all the time. I'm always up for a passionate debate as long as it's backed by clarity, fastidiousness, and humility. A lack thereof creates an incongruity in the discussion which, especially on the internet, can cause the other party to get defensive and petty. This either results in the other party (a) eventually putting their ego aside and realizing why the discussion went awry or (b) "stone the troll". YMMV

Thanks Jason. So to confirm, this will fit an Aluminum or cast iron housing? I do have both so this wouldn't be a deal breaker. Do you know whether the constituent parts to rebuild racks are readily available, e.g, bearings, seals, inner tie rods, boots, etc? Happy to do my own research but I figure you may have already done so. 🙂

To bring this one back, wheel offset plays a large role in low-speed steering loads, potentially more so than tire width or compound, since it controls scrub radius. A lower offset wheel, i.e. wheel center pushed outboard, will increase the lever arm between the contact patch and the steering axis. This will exacerbate the lifting effects of caster and kingpin offset. Additional weight over the axle will also contribute to an increase in steering loads. So this begs the question of whether the as-tested" 280Z wheels were lower offset than 240Z wheels. If the kingpin inclinations differ by even a degree between 240Z and 280Z, which the FSM's imply may be the case, then that could lead to significant increases in scrub in the 280Z's case.

Hi Jason, I'm very intrigued. The rack in my US-spec 260Z has some slop and I've wanted to go to a quicker ratio anyway. Is the 240 GBP price for a rack bar and pinion which I would then retrofit into my existing (updated cast-iron) housing? How are you ensuring the durability of the parts, what sort of validation testing is being done?

View Advert 16x7 Panasports Hi everyone, I'm looking for a local sale on these (Bay Area, CA). I'm selling a set of Panasports in as-new condition, purchased new (no one cares but I paid over $1600 all in). They come with barely used, although aged 7 years, set of Bridgestone RE-11A tires in 225/50R16 all around. I last drove on these 1.5 years ago and they still felt great. The wheels and tires have always been stored indoors. I put maybe 3000 miles on the set before I swapped to 15" Watanabes. I'm sure people will ask about fitment. I've never had rubbing in any situation but my rear fender lips and the stock front valence are already trimmed. It will be tough for me to comment whether they'll fit your specific car or not as it depends on your suspension setup. This tire size is common in Z's and typically fits stock bodies but *may* require modifications. Bolt pattern is 4x114.3 (4x4.5) Offset is zero (ET0) Advertiser LeonV Date 12/14/2020 Price $1,300.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Was that on 91 pump gas? I'm long overdue for another dyno session. I tuned mine with Weber jets but have since installed Keith's.

34 degrees. Nice results, a Z should be plenty fun with those numbers. 😉

Looks like a perfect spot for a distributor vacuum advance hose.

I've used Jauce in the past with success.

Quite the blast from the past! I've just copy/pasted the Comp header test results into the link above from the original HybridZ thread. The stock cam of the L24 did not pair well with the long-primary Comp header--it's really the length that matters for tuning, width is sized to minimize pumping losses vs weight/package/cost. Not to mention that the header was run with dual pipes with no merge collector. It wasn't the most scientific experiment because I didn't isolate just the header but it gives folks an idea of what these changes caused and why. That car was sold before more engine work was done. My current 260Z runs an L28 with the MSA 6-1 header. The header came with the car along with an MSA 2.5" premium exhaust. I had it modified for an additional resonator and "the quietest muffler you have" which ended up being a Walker Quiet-Flow. I wanted to hear all the induction noises, uninterrupted by a loud exhaust. I've since converted some Z friends who wanted to quiet their car down, to the same muffler. Here's a dyno run on poorly-tuned carbs.

Repost from HybridZ on 9/10/12: Dyno Testing a 260Z - Part 2 This is an analysis based on my dyno testing from yesterday (9-8-12). Test Parameters The reason behind testing was to baseline the Nissan Motorsports header/dual pipe exhaust against the stock manifold/single 2.5" that I baselined on page 2. Also tested was the same setup with advanced (from stock) timing, then with air cleaners removed, and finally with EDIS/Megajolt controlling ignition. The settings are as follows: early 260Z with 1972 L24/E88 that was installed by the previous owner stock cam and internals triple 40DCOE-18 Weber carbs with K&N-style filters (no heat shield) Cannon long-runner manifold Nissan Motorsports header with crush-bent true dual 2" pipes Mobil1 synthetic 10W-30 in engine, Redline 75W-90 in transmission (GL-4) and differential (GL-5) Stock 260Z distributor or Ford EDIS run by Megajolt for ignition Testing was done at Dito's Motors in South San Francisco on a Dynomite load-bearing dyno. Robert and David are great guys to work with! Test Settings: Same as page 2, but with a Nissan Motorsport header and 2" twice pipes Results: SOLID lines are the initial baseline DOTTED lines show the new exhaust The new setup made a peak of 130.5lb-ft @ 3350rpm and 115.8hp @ 5600 rpm, compared to the initial baseline of 136.3lb-ft @ 4100rpm and 120.8hp @ 5150rpm. Analysis The results are not unexpected, the single 2.5" did better than the separate duals. It is worth to note that the Nissan Motorsport header brought the torque peak down by about 750rpm when compared to the stock manifold and 2.5 pipe setup! This is caused by the header's very long primaries. The powerband feels like a mini-V8, gobs of torque down low, but still likes to rev. However, mid-range torque took a definite hit. Final Thoughts The twice pipe system does not have a merge collector, which would give gains across the board. Integrating a merge collector can also shift and improve the torque peak. The next iteration of the engine will be jetting the carbs (more for partial throttle cruise, WOT AFR is 11-12), putting in a more aggressive cam to take advantage of the header and to let the engine breathe better at higher rpm. I'd also like to build a single-pipe system utilizing this header. Eventually, I will build up an L28 to drop in. Other Notable Data (not exhaust related): Advancing distributor timing gave peak gains of 2.1lb-ft (132.6lb-ft) and 4.3 hp (120.1hp) Removing the dirty air cleaners gave additional gains of 3.4lb-ft (136.0lb-ft) and 4.2hp (124.3hp) Using EDIS/Megajolt to tune the spark curve gave another additional 4.4lb-ft (140.4lb-ft) and 3.6hp (127.9hp)

It doesn't sound too far-fetched but I'd still be surprised if that were the reasoning behind the decision. How much are those bushings offset by? If it's a few mm's, my call would be to just machine the strut housing a tiny bit more and not worry about retooling bushings and having them become asymmetric. Perhaps the cost analysis showed otherwise. It's not uncommon to offset bushings to account for pre-load or uneven travel but I don't see that being the case here. Especially because the bushings are offset in opposite directions when installed.

Did you spin the motor by the cam bolt? You shouldn't have to guess where the problem lies if you've done a leak-down test.