LeonV

The absorber is awesome for quickies. I use an electric leaf blower followed by a good microfiber for finishing touches. Works well and doesn't scratch the paint...

The wife and I love it too! There's just something so intriguing about the zombie genre. Greg, that zombie beaver trailer was great!

FYI, in Redline-speak NS means "No Slip", i.e. no added friction modifiers (typically used for clutch limited slips). It has nothing to do with sulfur content. Furthermore, the NS stuff is GL-5, not the GL-4 that Z-car transmissions call for.

First pic is likely for AC.

There are pros and cons to both but I like having an electrical pump to prime the float bowls after the car's sat for a while. It's also nice for checking float settings without having to run the car.

Don't worry about this, you will have no problem running .200" lash pads in stock retainers. I've run bigger.

Mine looked nice and shiny too, don't let it distract you. Just make sure to verify, like others are saying. Otherwise, say hello to a noisy, self-destructive valvetrain...

At the time, I took the advice of an experienced L-series builder and sanded some used rocker arms I had. That didn't turn out so well as my cam ended up getting wiped. I have a thread on it on HybridZ. After that debacle, I bought new rockers. Lesson learned...

Did you check that with a thermometer?

I had a really good and long conversation with Ron Iskenderian a few months ago regarding a damaged cam. The takeaways from the conversation were: - If your used rockers are smooth, reuse them. - If old rockers are not good, buy new. Brand doesn't matter as much as them being manufactured the same as the originals (sintered pads). - Resurfacing rockers correctly takes proper fixturing (this is not trivial) and Ron's guess is that it cannot be done for less than $8-10/rocker. I'm curious as to what Delta's fixture looks like. My experience with Delta was less than stellar. Six out of twelve rockers were not even ground parallel. That's 50%! When you installed the lash pad and rocker, and raised the pivot to set valve lash, this could be seen with the naked eye. In other words, if you had a really thin feeler gauge you'd get different values for valve lash depending on what part of the rocker pad you checked. For all those getting their rockers resurfaced by Delta, I strongly urge you to check to be sure the lash pad and cam surfaces are ground parallel. You can check it visually by doing what is underlined above.

Mikuni mounting blocks are likely to interfere with the DCOE cold start circuit that pokes out the back. I had a buddy run into this. You can run them but you'll have to give them a trim. I'm using the Pierce mounting blocks on my DCOEs but strangely enough the shape of the rubber gaskets is different (you can see it in the photos). i suspect the gaskets come from some other Weber application. I trimmed the rubber gaskets to match the mounting blocks.

I was going to say the same. Measure installed spring height to see if you have a sunken valve.

Ron's is also #46 but a very good, almost exact replica of the original.

Doesn't look like it.

Good point!

Spray starter fluid into the intake and see if it starts. If so, you have a fuel problem.

Whoa, that was a while back! In retrospect, my comment sounds rather presumptuous and dickish. I love the car and the video!

The answer completely depends on wheel offset.

You're running rich, the intake/exhaust gasket might be compromised, and your float levels are likely high. Time to do a thorough check-up. This forum has tons of info on triple Webers, looks like you've been searching so keep it up.

Nope.

Looking good! I didn't even notice it was a 280Z until I saw the vinyl covers. This is going to be one hell of a 280Z! Nicely done.

That's exactly what I said! I've been doing it wrong this whole time! It just leaves a mark. The guys use these tools on 8000 RPM Evos, you will have nothing to worry about. Good reminder, it'll make a nice addition to my Christmas list.

Here's a demo of the aforementioned tool. The first time I saw one of these things in use, my jaw dropped. Like I said, it works best with the head on the car, using compressed air to keep the valves closed.

While I haven't personally used it, I've seen our techs use this style of tool. These things are amazing, you'll never get a valve spring off faster. It's especially good for on-car jobs. I've talked to them before about which one they like more but I don't recall right now and won't be at the shop for another week as I'm on vacation. The only negative I know of is that it'll likely mar your valve retainers.

I'm using the Ford stem seals and Isky retainers with a .540" lift cam without issue.