LeonV

SUs are a completely different animal in the way they are arranged and in their function, and not comparable to triples. I don't want to have a balance tube, period! So yes, my engine operates all the time without a balance tube. Firing pulses overlap each other during the inline-6 engine cycle and cause all sorts of disturbances in flow through the carb venturi. If you must have a balance tube, a smaller diameter one is preferable to at least somewhat restrict the effect. Cannon's balance tube is relatively large. FWIW...

Did you sync the carbs with the balance tube disconnected? You can't disconnect the Cannon balance tube...

Another way of saying the engine doesn't like coming back down to idle, or is very slow to do so.

Like I said, it's a contributor but certainly not the only factor...

My biggest problem with the Cannon manifold besides the misaligned holes for the heims was that it has a big balance tube built into it. I think that's one of the major contributors to lazy idle syndrome seen on many Zs. I've since installed a TWM intake on mine but have yet to test out that hypothesis.

The owner is a member of this forum, he goes by spitz17.

Good catch!

I think he meant that Cliff's came out better vs. his old L24 block...

Looks like you may have a 280ZX fan on there. It has a different offset for the mounting face than the S30 fans in order to clear the extra pulley rows (WP/ALT, PS, AC). An S30 fan may just solve your problem. It can be 240Z-280Z, they're all the same in terms of offset. Yes, your old radiator is OEM. The Koyo looks to have a larger core.

In case it was lost in translation, the emergency start button on 260Zs bypasses the interlock system. It is not a remote starter switch!

I'd go a size down to .160", you'll get more valve lift.

What's with all the spite towards Keith Franck?

Yes, but only if you can't pass smog. Does your car pass smog? If so, then I fail to see how this affects you. Why would you have to pay an extra $200 to register your car? This is essentially an exemption for those whose car has trouble passing smog. Is this a bad thing?

I don't see what the big deal is?

The absorber is awesome for quickies. I use an electric leaf blower followed by a good microfiber for finishing touches. Works well and doesn't scratch the paint...

The wife and I love it too! There's just something so intriguing about the zombie genre. Greg, that zombie beaver trailer was great!

FYI, in Redline-speak NS means "No Slip", i.e. no added friction modifiers (typically used for clutch limited slips). It has nothing to do with sulfur content. Furthermore, the NS stuff is GL-5, not the GL-4 that Z-car transmissions call for.

First pic is likely for AC.

There are pros and cons to both but I like having an electrical pump to prime the float bowls after the car's sat for a while. It's also nice for checking float settings without having to run the car.

Don't worry about this, you will have no problem running .200" lash pads in stock retainers. I've run bigger.

Mine looked nice and shiny too, don't let it distract you. Just make sure to verify, like others are saying. Otherwise, say hello to a noisy, self-destructive valvetrain...

At the time, I took the advice of an experienced L-series builder and sanded some used rocker arms I had. That didn't turn out so well as my cam ended up getting wiped. I have a thread on it on HybridZ. After that debacle, I bought new rockers. Lesson learned...

Did you check that with a thermometer?

I had a really good and long conversation with Ron Iskenderian a few months ago regarding a damaged cam. The takeaways from the conversation were: - If your used rockers are smooth, reuse them. - If old rockers are not good, buy new. Brand doesn't matter as much as them being manufactured the same as the originals (sintered pads). - Resurfacing rockers correctly takes proper fixturing (this is not trivial) and Ron's guess is that it cannot be done for less than $8-10/rocker. I'm curious as to what Delta's fixture looks like. My experience with Delta was less than stellar. Six out of twelve rockers were not even ground parallel. That's 50%! When you installed the lash pad and rocker, and raised the pivot to set valve lash, this could be seen with the naked eye. In other words, if you had a really thin feeler gauge you'd get different values for valve lash depending on what part of the rocker pad you checked. For all those getting their rockers resurfaced by Delta, I strongly urge you to check to be sure the lash pad and cam surfaces are ground parallel. You can check it visually by doing what is underlined above.

Mikuni mounting blocks are likely to interfere with the DCOE cold start circuit that pokes out the back. I had a buddy run into this. You can run them but you'll have to give them a trim. I'm using the Pierce mounting blocks on my DCOEs but strangely enough the shape of the rubber gaskets is different (you can see it in the photos). i suspect the gaskets come from some other Weber application. I trimmed the rubber gaskets to match the mounting blocks.