LeonV
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Everything posted by LeonV
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Water is almost 2X more effective at heat transfer than antifreeze (ethylene glycol). The main point of using antifreeze is for dropping the freezing point, increasing boiling point, as well as lubricating the water pump and protecting the insides of the engine from corrosion. "Water Wetter" does the same thing.
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Did you make sure to torque any fasteners at pivot points with the car loaded and on the ground?
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I was going to say the same. I'd switch them...
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Looks like it's in great shape! BTW, that's a '73 model year judging by the equipment.
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That should be fine, as long as the head hasn't been shaved.
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Bart is right, the manual refers to RON which is the octane standard the US used back then (and the rest of the world still uses today). The US now uses RON+MON/2 (AKI) which is a lower number for the same octane level, i.e. 95RON is equivalent to 91AKI, as Bart already pointed out.
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Wow, fantastic job! I love the thoroughness and attention to detail.
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Check the reaction disk while you're in there, especially considering the brake booster was replaced.
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Looks like an awesome trip! It's great to see the Z out and about in Europe-land.
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Cool car! Your camshaft, however, is toast and needs to be replaced before doing anything else...
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Help finding 260z build date(the tag is gone)
LeonV replied to 2sixTZombii's topic in Open Discussions
RLS30-24368 is a 2/74 build date. -
Anybody use stagg 4 or suspension techniques products?
LeonV replied to 2sixTZombii's topic in Suspension & Steering
Thanks! Date of manufacture is stamped on the plate riveted to the driver's side door sill. -
Anybody use stagg 4 or suspension techniques products?
LeonV replied to 2sixTZombii's topic in Suspension & Steering
Well that's a blast from the past! She's still sitting on that same suspension...
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Custom aluminum dashboard group buy for all first-gen Zs
LeonV replied to olderthanme's topic in Interior
Better build a time machine first... -
Welcome! Nice Zs, the Fairlady looks like a fun project.
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Same thing happened when I was helping a buddy bleed his Z. He ended up getting a regular tee to replace the prop valve and installing a Wilwood adjustable in the engine bay.
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The 280Z's redline is lower because of increased stroke. It has very little to do with R/S ratio.
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They're allowing me to drive the car! Just living with the leaks until I get them welded up. They're not quite as loud as my old twice pipes (good thing). BTW, I love your flywheel holding tool.
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With such a small, compact chamber you may not need a whole lot more timing. Mapping out the ignition system and leaning the fuel out a bit will make for substantial gains, not that it's not already a strong engine.
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Good work G, looks like you're attacking that clutch job head-on!
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I have a set of 225/50R16 tires on 16X7 Panasports on both of my Zs. I think one set is +6 offset and one is 0 offset, but I got both sets secondhand. After mocking up both sets on one car, I think the tires make a bigger difference than the slight offset (although that helps). The RE-11As on the green car are quite a bit "bulgier" than the Turanzas on the orange car. The facts... - Orange car is on +6 offset with very old 225/50R16 Bridgestone Turanza rubber. - Green car is on +0 offset with 225/50R16 Bridgestone RE-11A rubber. - Green car has +0 deg of rear camber, orange car has -1.5 deg. - Green car has trimmed rear arch lips and front valence - Orange car has aftermarket air dam - Zero rubbing on either setup - Switch sets between the two and fatter rears will rub on orange car
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Lean out the mixture a bit to 13:1 and you'll make even more.
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Sure thing. If you can't find it, I wouldn't hesitate to cut out a PE, PU, or Buna-N rubber disk and stick it in there. Just remember to glue it in place and adjust the master cylinder push-rod to spec.
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For example: McMaster-Carr
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Very nice job! Just needs to be dropped a bit, proper wheels, and you're good to go. Love the green over butterscotch.
