LeonV

PM sent about DCOE chokes!

There's a rebuilt one locally that hasn't sold for years. I think he's down to $275 now. There really isn't anything special about the E31, the reason they were popular was because racers needed them. They have smaller valves, not bad but not great combustion chambers, and they're usually very corroded from age and poor maintenance. There were over 30,000 made, so they're not really rare either...

Last one I sold went for $150.

That's a ton of work, great job!

I'm lucky enough (lucky being the key word here) to know an amazing car collector in the area with an incredible set of Japanese classics. I'm loving your posts, I'm assuming you're in Japan for vacation?

Both of these scenarios are impossible when milling the head deck. In fact, the opposite would be true in both cases.

Big thanks for documenting this. Looking forward to seeing other cool stuff to do in Japan! I'm afraid that when I go, I'll come home with a car...

That's awesome, Phil! Japan is most definitely on my to-do list. I'm spoiled, as I've seen each model in the flesh that you took photos of in the museum.

Wow... :stupid: I've tried hard to refrain from commenting but this is getting ridiculous. Taunting Rebello combined with the misguided thought of a "square" L24 is beyond funny. Sell your Z and buy a Supra or a Corvette, that's the best advice I can give you. I recently rebuilt an L28. I did all my own work, besides machining and mounting the exhaust. I kept a spreadsheet of costs. Everything included (besides my labor), the build cost me roughly $5,500 and that's with having a good amount of parts on hand that I didn't have to buy. In this cost, I'm including everything engine related, i.e. fuel system, cooling, induction, exhaust, etc. I put hundreds of hours of my own labor into the build, which are unaccounted for. I visited Rebello's shop to help get my head setup, and I can say without a doubt that they ARE NOT rip-off artists. In fact, after having done this build, I'd love to just pay Rebello to build my next engine (if I didn't enjoy engine building so much). You want a cheap rebuild? Go buy one of those $1,500 Datsun Parts LLC engines and see what you get. Quit dreaming and take a dose of reality. Rebello knows what they're doing and charge a very fair price for it. Jeebus, the ignorance of the OP is ASTOUNDING. Go for it. Let us know how it goes. Will you be keeping track of your labor cost for the swap?

I don't understand what you mean by the "combustion chamber shape (being) negatively affected". Could you elaborate?

Yeah, the whole ordeal is kind of ridiculous... Good luck!

Keep in mind that shaving the block changes piston deck height...

Nice!

I have two of them (one for each car I guess). Do you need the entire section? I don't have a scanner at home but can take photos of the pages you need...

Either he was being dramatic, his engine isn't tuned right, or he's got an absolutely monster cam in there because L-series engines typically have a fantastic mid-range. I'd believe nothing under 3k RPM, but nothing below 5k? Like I said, he seems to overemphasize a bit... I recently built an L28 with a 280deg/.540" lift cam and the thing has no issues idling at 800rpm and flies after 2-3k RPM.

The master is fine, it'll give you less travel at the cost of higher pedal force. However, it should have nothing to do with actual braking capability. What happens is, the combined piston area of the front pistons in the 4-piston caliper is greater than stock which biases the brakes further to the front. Thus, the rear brakes aren't allowed to do as much work as they could with the stock system and don't transfer as much weight to the fronts. That all equates to longer stopping distances. Proportioning is different depending on which exact front calipers you went with, as piston sizes differ. Here's a great HBZ thread to reference, I consider it a must-read for anyone thinking about playing with brakes: Toyota Truck Calipers, Ventilated Brake Rotors, MM rear Disc Brakes - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ

Beautiful! That diff better be on the next shipment to Stolze...

Switch back to stock! The 4-piston brakes are not an upgrade, as you've noticed. The main issue is with brake distribution, there are some good threads on HybridZ about it.

Hey, thanks for the response Bill! What is it about the brakes that sucks? Mushy or just longer stopping distances?

Thanks Jim! It was nice having a few Canucks at the show.

Hey Jim, I was parked right next to your buddy, Ken! Real cool guy. I snapped a few photos during the show, and this was one of my favorites: This is the first time I've seen one of these in person, and is a representation of how awesome JCCS is. Of course, no post is complete without the obligatory shot of your own car at the car show. My apologies for the crappy lighting. It was an insane rush to get the Z finished up. I got the rebuilt engine running a few days before taking off, had the exhaust installed the day before, and got it aligned and registered day of leaving for the show. Engine break-in was done on the trip from SF to Long Beach.

Windshields are the same.

There's absolutely no way that adding a front air dam will take you from 140lb of lift to 115lb of downforce (negative lift), especially at 70mph. EDIT: I'll add that you will always have lift at the front on a Z, unless you make some serious modifications to the car, i.e. it won't look stock-ish anymore...

My Accord needs a new catalytic as well and Rockauto seems to have good prices. For your car, both options are under $200. Before calling the converter dead, make sure your car is in a good state of tune (i.e. not running overly rich). A highway drive prior to the test is obligatory to light off the cat.

I had a similar issue, removed the crappy OEM pump, and all was well running just the mechanical pump. This is on an L24 with triples.