LeonV

Fresh engines should have the valve lash checked often. As the valves wear into the seats, lash will tighten and keep the valves open longer. This can cause rough-running and compression problems. Also do a leak-down check before tossing the engine out of the car. That will tell you where your problem may lie and is a fundamental step in troubleshooting compression issues.

It is indeed. Unfortunately I've not had the time to drive it for over 6 months...

I've had no issue with using the TC rod mounting points and the reinforced bits at the rear on a two-poster.

Welcome! Nice save, love the original blue plates and flat-top carbs on a running motor are a rare sight these days. I'm on my second 260Z and have a bunch of old parts from my previous 240s and 260s, shout if you guys ever need anything. I noticed the condition of your bumpers and I know I have at least one early 260Z bumper, can't recall whether it's a front or rear. I also have brackets to convert an early 260 to 240 bumpers. My current one is also a 2/74 build, serial number 24368. ?

I don't know any Z folks in Monterey, unfortunately. You'd be better off posting in the "Datsun Parts and Needs" Facebook group.

Anytime, glad the combo worked out for you too. I can't complain about mine, a stock clutch with 10lb flywheel is the perfect complement for a hot street-driven Z IMO. Still holding just fine after 7 years and a few thousand miles of hard pulls and quick shifts. ?

It'll be great, put it together and let her rip. ?

Same. Mine has been on and off the road since 2013 with the shaved P90 @ 11:1 compression with no issues related to running California 91 pump gas.

Sounds like the shift fork isn't engaging the release bearing. I'm not familiar with the S54 but sometimes this can be fixed without pulling the transmission.

Nice solution! I went the other way and put Sparcos in my S2000 and run with the cushion removed on track for the same reason.

You can also take this time to measure piston deck height. Put a straight edge on the deck, turn the crank until the piston rests on the straight edge, zero the indicator and go all the way up. Place the indicator along the wrist pin and the straight edge intersecting the wrist pin.

Not a problem at all. I sold that Z probably 5-6 years ago but it was a harsh ride. Due to the lower spring perch on the front, the Eibach springs made the car very susceptible to bottoming out. This is not due to coil bind but to a lack of travel in the dampers with the car that low. My current Z sits lower on coil-overs but it rides much better than my old orange car because I sectioned 2" out of the struts. Frankly, I'd stay with the 280Z springs and make the rear work if you want more sports-car handling without sacrificing impact harshness as much. If you can do a little measuring, you should be able to figure out how much extra height you need. Measure ride height (e.g. wheel lip to wheel well), jack up rear end until it sits where you want it, re-measure ride height. Multiply that change in height by the rear motion ratio (~0.90) and you'll have your desired spacer height. Motion ratio reference: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63492-suspension-tech-motion-ratio-unsprung-weight/

If by sportier feel, you mean higher ride frequency, then yes. Whether that’s a good thing is another discussion. You should be able to find used isolators pretty easily. A spacer will more less do the same job, yeah.

@heyitsrama you installed the wrong springs, 12/73 is an early 260Z. The 280Z gets a shorter spring in the rear due to the taller isolator, if I’m not mistaken. You should fit 240Z springs or install 280Z rear top mounts. However, 280Z spring rates are stiffer than 240Z so you will end up sitting a bit higher. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, just depends what you’re after.

That combo must have a healthy compression ratio. Looking forward to seeing the results. ?

I've run 225's on stock struts previously, they'll clear fine with the right offset. I ran 225/50-16 on my previous Z on 16x7 ET6 Panasports without rubbing on stock fender arches, although the front valence was aftermarket. FWIW, I have a personal preference against locking lug nuts. Anyone with a common wheel lock removal tool can still get them off and for the 99.999% of the time that my wheels aren't being stolen, a special tool is needed to remove them for service. Wheel locks are also typically not impact gun friendly. My Z is parked in the garage and I don't typically leave it in places where there's a good chance it'll be put up on blocks. Insurance will take care of things out of my control. Everyone's situation is different, just providing a perspective.

Thanks, appreciate it! It's an early 260, correct. The color is allegedly a Jaguar BRG but was originally "baby poo yellow", as described by the previous owner. Didn't mean to sidetrack your thread. I don't have direct experience with a 215/60-15 tire on a Z but with that said, the main area I'd be concerned about is rubbing on the front valence during steering, especially when going in reverse. Also, there aren't any real sporting tires in that size that I can find besides maybe the very overpriced Pirelli. I'd consider a 205/55-15 instead based on tire selection although the 215/60 will look better if you're keeping stock ride height.

Thanks! It's on sectioned struts with Bilstein inserts and height adjustable coilovers. Camber adjustment is via bolt-in DP Racing camber plates, they've only got 4 discrete positions but they're well thought-out and compact. Plus, zero mods required on the body and I can still go +/- from the current settings. Don was great to work with as far as ensuring fit with the Bilsteins.

Hi Jeff, I haven't had any problems getting a socket in, I believe it's a 19mm but it's been a while since I've taken the wheels off. I typically use sockets with protectors on them in any case. I'm running 15X8 Watanabes (ET0) with 225/50-15 tires without issue although my fender lips and valence are trimmed. Camber is -3° front/-2.3° rear.

You need conical lug nuts, the OEM is an acorn-style. I'm currently running these, as I prefer the plain, open-ended style: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-40027/overview/

Getting fancy in the OSG car with that Motec ECU. Must be a hell of a cooling fan on that radiator to need need any cooling while on the dyno.

I ran Megajolt on my previous Z because I wanted a stout, fully-programmable ignition system at a low cost as I was running triples for fueling. It's easy to setup, tune, and is rock solid. I highly recommend Megajolt if you're considering standalone ignition but want to keep the carbs. I'm running a 123ignition distributor on the current Z because I again wanted a fully-programmable ignition system but this time I also wanted to keep a period look. There is no other good reason to stay with a distributor if you're considering a DIS, IMO. The 123 is not as robust and high performing as Megajolt but it's as good as it gets for distributors.

The ZX distributor is the common go-to and a good sweet-spot between the extremes. The tach can be made to work.

Yep, that's his distribution method.

There's a lot of information on this at HybridZ. I ran Megajolt on my previous 260Z, it's a relatively easy system to get running. The only real challenges are the trigger wheel and sensor, and those can be bought off the shelf to make it almost trivial.