LeonV

Does anyone actually bother to adjust the door strikers when putting on new weatherstripping? It's kinda necessary...

Looks like a thorough job, very nice!

You're in Socal, I'm sure you have a speed shop near by that stocks it. I get mine from a local shop (Gotelli's in SSF for anyone on the SF Peninsula). Tranny shifts great...

FWIW, upon checking I also got the medium (47605.027) return springs. Looks like some testing is in order...

I thought you read that article I posted? If it's a GL-5, it WILL damage your syncros over time. Whoever said GL-4 is rare is ignorant and misinformed. API GL-4 is not "rare". I use Redline MT-90. Buy a GL-4 gear oil. It's not at all difficult to find.

Phil, What we're talking about happens with the linkage totally disconnected! Disconnect the linkage, individually blip the throttles and see if they drop back to idle. Mine hang. Good link on the return springs. I'll have to look back and see what I ordered, but from memory I got the stiffest ones available at Pierce.

Same here. I got a new MSA 6-1 with MSA's old-style Premium exhaust (slip fit instead of flanged) with a Z I got recently and have been thinking about what I want to do with it. Good read!

I have the same problems with my old DCOE18s. It's likely stiction within the bearings, throttle rod, butterfly-to-throat, etc. I haven't done much to alleviate it as I've been content with my throttle return. I went as far as the change out the internal throttle returns for new ones. It wasn't too difficult but don't expect it to be a piece of cake. That didn't change a whole lot. I've done the same blip one carb at-a-time test and they all failed to completely return to idle. I said the hell with it and just set up the linkage as best as I could. Thinking more on the throttle mechanism, there are two springs in there fighting against one another: the return spring and accel pump spring. I haven't done so, but I'm curious how much of an effect removing the accel pump springs would have on throttle return. This would simulate getting a slightly stiffer return spring.

I took a second and looked up that Wally-World gear oil you're using. It's an API GL-5. You're slowly destroying your syncros... EDIT: GL-4 vs. GL-5: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

You should be fine as long as it's an API GL-4 grade oil.

Halfshaft angles do not affect wheelbase. I have zero factual info on why. I can only guess it had something to do with packaging and/or parts/tooling-availability.

Looks like a mash-up of the old and new style DCOE. This won't work (well) because of a few design changes, notably the different pitch and taper of the idle screws. I'm sure there are other minute differences that will make setting the carbs up properly a major headache. Get a matching set.

Coming along nicely, great to see 2 nice Zs side-by-side in the garage! Tires are nice and meaty, that thing will have a ton of grip.

Your coil will be fine. Your points, however, may not be so lucky...

Bye-bye resto project when that happens, believe me!

Very nice! Z headers double nicely as artwork.

Few things: (1) Does your manifold have a balance tube, a'la Cannon? (2) Does brake effort decrease as RPMs increase? Holding master cylinder piston diameter constant, increasing caliper piston area should decrease effort but increase travel, per Pascal's Law. In other words, if you switch to bigger calipers, pedal effort should decrease.

No problem, helps to rehash my memory on what I've done and need to do anyway. I didn't find that there was a big difference in slow transitions after soldering the spills but then again I don't have data to prove it, just observations of O2 readings while driving. I thought it would have a bigger effect than it did, too. Slow transitions also mean that the accel pump piston moves slowly, allowing some fuel to "blow-by" the piston and not get pushed out through the orifice and pump jet. Theoretically. How much I don't know, but it depends on the seal the piston makes with its bore.

I was unclear, sorry. You're correct if the shoes haven't been messed with and the handbrake is correctly adjusted. I think I mixed up the FSM and John Coffey's (I think?) suggestion based on his experiences. FWIW, a worn/maladjusted handbrake will not allow full adjustment of the rear brakes.

Good to hear, John.

I'm on board.

Good question, and it depends on where you're at right now. My goal was to have it to the point where I could stomp on it at 1500rpm in 1st and take off without bucking like a bronco. I first tried stiffer springs but that didn't work since they overcame the throttle return springs and made the car idle at 3000rpm. Then I soldered up the spill jets and the situation got better although the engine still wanted more fuel on quick bursts of the throttle. The use of .53mm pump jets got rid of the hesitation although the AFR still goes a bit lean before settling back down. I haven't done so but .55 or .60 pump jets would probably be as good as it gets. Then I still need to get smaller hypojets to further improve my gas mileage (I can have my cake and eat it too ). Here's a good post by Mike Riehle on the message board, when we were discussing accel enrichment tuning: So Phil, what are your current accel problems? Sorry for the side-tracking but I figure this will help Takashi in getting his carbs right too. DISCLAIMER: tune your accel pump LAST! Your idle and main circuits should be at a "good" state at this point.

Looks great, Mike! Thanks for the info.

A few design constraints are a good thing, but I become disinterested when you constrain everything (i.e. spec series). I say give teams a tire and a power/weight ratio spec and let them have at it! The solutions become much more interesting.

FYI, this is not the proper way to adjust the drums, refer to the FSM. You won't have full braking performance unless they are adjusted correctly.