LeonV

1. Loosen and remove 4 nuts holding the seat to the brackets. 2. Lift seat and carefully manuever through fully open door. 3. Put the spacers back on the seat mounting screws and thread the nuts back on so as to keep everything together.

Besides, although good to know, the OP wasn't asking about what theoretical tire/rim size combo will squeeze out every inch of performance. His question was more geared towards just being able to use it, i.e. safety. To once more explicitly answer the OP: Yes, 225/50-16 is fine. It will open up a lot more tire options, as I mentioned earlier.

Correct, and Tire Rack has actual width specs for each tire they sell. In your reference to "best performance", are you talking about the rim width as rated (e.g. 16X7) or edge-to-edge?

Sounds good to me!

That's what I'm hoping for! Is Mark still up for hosting? It would be wise to time it so that we can try out Keith's new innovations once he's got them figured out.

I was an R&T subscriber since 2000 and did the same thing, cancelled it a few years ago. I also got tired of the same "super-car" crap over and over. They've got new leadership now and are supposedly going to a different, more grassroots approach. With that said, the only two magazines I subscribe to are GRM and CM, and don't plan on adding any more. I have trouble keeping up with reading them all as it is...

Precisely!

Thanks for the corroboration, Jeff. I was starting to feel like a broken record (CD?)!

Wow, that would be quite a trek! Hopefully we can set something up in the spring. Any plans, Rob?

Maybe in the UK, but no way are you going to sell a 280Z distributor here for $150. More like $50 if you're lucky. Take the $300.

Not a bad list at all! I'd love to even drive an NSX. I have flogged an Elise for a few laps around an autoX course, and although fun, it is nowhere near practical or liveable! Two >6' guys sit shoulder-to-shoulder in that thing. Plus, I don't fit unless the top is off. Oh wait, I have a crappy video of the flogging (video or it didn't happen, right?)... Go to 1:25 for take-off.

What the manual recommends is equivalent to today's 87 octane. I use 89 octane in my L24, with as much timing as I want. I suppose I could use 87, but I tuned my timing curve on 89.

As far as new goes, I've logged a little bit of seat time in the Scion FRS. I really liked its tossability and think of it as a Miata 1.5. It's bigger, looks better (IMO), more powerful, and way more comfortable than a Miata, but it still maintains that agile feel. I've got an S2000 as well, and liken the FRS to an S2000 0.75. The FRS is not as razor sharp, good looking (again, IMO!), powerful, or raw like the S, but instead it is much roomier, more comfortable and way more liveable day-to-day. The FRS/BRZ bridges the gap between a Miata and S2000. If you expand your search to older cars, the possibilities are endless! You're easily within budget for a used Porsche Cayman S and a used Boxter S goes for way less. Those are fantastic driver's cars. Maintenance is a bigger pain though. I'd consider getting a $25k Cayman S and keeping the rest of your budget for future maintenance. The list can go on and on...

Excellent, thanks!

Interesting, I'm curious as to how it's going to work out for you.

Just buy the stainless kit for the non-critical parts and buy the critical fasteners according to the spreadsheets that are out there. I believe Lazeum compiled a pretty good list.

JC, do you know what spring rates the 36mm shocks are valved for, or are they custom valved on an individual basis? JM, regarding the funky valving on your shocks, I believe compression damping is usually valved taking UNsprung mass into account and rebound damping is valved for the sprung mass. Are yours valved differently? I'm hoping the Bilsteins are better too, the Tokicos are definitely too stiff in compression.

Are you familiar enough with Tokicos (HP or Illumina) to compare them (ride and road-holding) to the P30?

Cool, thanks John! Great info. Sounds like the P30-0032 works with sectioned struts. Digressive valving is something that the Tokicos are sorely lacking. If the Tokicos actually do have digressive valving, then their compression damping is just way too damn stiff. The P30 Bilsteins are sounding like the ones to get for me, as I'm looking for the car to ride better but not be severely underdamped for autoX and the track.

Nice buy! That car looks pretty clean, besides the tattered paint, and you got some nice goodies to go along with it.

Wow, those look fantastic, Jerry!

I've been looking forward to getting some Bilsteins or Konis, as their valving seems to be "better" than Tokico's. However, I haven't done enough research as to which ones work for Zs and what's out there. I know John C. is involved in getting some Bilstein's that could be used for Zs but not a lot of news on that front.

That must be because you bought DIN spec bolts. JIS bolts will have the same hex head size as the original.

Most definitely, Julio! Ride quality depends on how the damper matches the spring. If you think back to your mechanical vibrations class (I know, I know ), the important bit here is the damping ratio (critical damping constant / damping coefficient). Generally, as the damping ratio approaches critical, you get better handling because of quicker response times, but ride quality goes down the drain since transmissibility goes up. There's a small sweet spot where handling and ride quality can co-exist, and that's where properly-matched dampers put you. Multi-adjustable, multi-circuit dampers make it easier and/or possible to get there.

Oooh, shiny!