LeonV

Triple Webers don't have a ported vacuum source, that's a hose to nowhere. You could try using the vac advance referenced to manifold vacuum but don't expect the results to be great. You'll likely end up with static timing too retarded, thus limiting WOT performance. FWIW, tailoring a spark-advance curve to an engine is not trivial.

A carburetted vehicle will flood, if you keep the throttle closed. At WOT, the vacuum signal is not sufficient to draw out an appreciable amount of fuel. It's SOP, throttle must be wide open in order to get proper, repeatable readings.

Yes, throttle must be WOT. I've disconnected the fuel lines before to do this, but in reality, with the pedal floored and the starter cranking the engine, there is no way it'll have enough of a vacuum signal to draw enough fuel to start, let alone flood the engine. All plugs out, WOT, and you're good to go. FWIW, EFI cars usually engage a "flood-clear" mode if you floor the throttle while cranking, meaning injector PW goes to zero. EDIT: I see that the OP has a 280Z. Refer to L-Jet EFI guys above for why "flooding" is not a problem.

That's a pretty "mild" cam. It has a bit more lift and duration than stock but nothing dramatic. It would probably get you a little bit more top end without sacrificing mid-range and idle. I bet it wouldn't change the engine's behavior much at all. Looks like they kept the lift low enough to re-use the stock valve springs (EDIT: although for whatever reason, they say to only use the specified springs).

Have you checked to make sure all mounting fasteners are tight? Make sure that all driveshaft, diff mount and trans mount bolts are torqued to spec.

Plenty of people. e.g. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79649-progress-on-my-insane-vq35hr-240z-project/

Correct. FWIW, OER uses Weber jets.

Did you install the e-tube with the air-holes towards the bottom?

Pun intended?

To clear this up, as Keith already told you on SDC, that is the dry jet. It goes on top of the e-tube and underneath the holder.

That's exactly what I was going to advise. Do this first, do not resort to vice-grips on the nut right away. It'll make your life easier!

To corroborate Rob, Keith said they're double the spring rate. This should activate the accel pump sooner and give it a stronger shot.

I'm not sure exactly, I didn't get one in the package since I only got springs from Keith. He may have put it in accidentally. Does it have any holes when looking at it straight-on?

Rob, that is great to hear, now I really want to get home and try them out! The stumbling at sudden throttle input (e.g. quick, rev-matched downshifts) has been my biggest gripe.

I wanted a cleaner look and I like that the EDIS module is somewhat hidden underneath the fender. Interference issues are a good point to consider as well. Frankly, the placement was really dictated by available holes already in the body (didn't want to drill new holes). The right fender had perfect holes in it already for a coil bracket and as a bonus, it places the coil pack such that the plug wires stay short. The battery tray area had plenty of space (and holes) after removing the 260Z's emergency start button for a relay/module bracket. Same here. 120 mains shipped from Pierce today, they should arrive tomorrow.

Good to hear, Blue. Will do! I hope you mean psig! Good find, although it may be out of the budget for some. Looks like a good (better?) alternative for the RX7 pump. I've got an RX7 pump sitting around as well, I'll put it to use eventually and see what happens. Yeah, I suppose Lotus guys are OK. Hopefully Keith sent out the missing links today. I'm expecting the mains and Keith's final spring to come in at some point in the week and then I can do some more tests, as long as it isn't wet out.

Tried 110 mains today and they're way too lean. Car doesn't want to accelerate at WOT and AFR reads 15-17. Ordering 120 mains today, those should be close to what I need. Haven't put in the new return springs or pump springs since Keith accidentally sent 2 springs instead of 3. Silly Lotus guys!

Hmm, I remember that I had to get approval before being able to use the board after I registered. You should get an email, probably within 24 hours, which will let you use your account. It's an anti-spam feature.

Rob, here is a good thread covering this: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72457-edis-and-tach-not-working/ Looks like making a 240Z tach work is probably easier than the 280Z one!

Not yet. There are a bunch of posts on making it work but I just haven't done it yet. I'm running a 280Z tach so the solution for a 240Z tach would be slightly different. For the 280Z tach, I've seen at least 2 solutions. I can run a wire from pin 2 on the EDIS module to the stock tach wire. Some have reported this to work. Others tie in the 3 coil pack wires, put in diodes, and connect them to the tach. This has also been reported to work. I haven't bothered yet...

Good stuff Rob, I'm glad the Mikuni guys are involved. I'm very curious as to the results. Steve(s): it would be awesome to log before and after AFR as well as driving impressions!

I'm using a 280ZX fan on my L24 for the purpose of spacing it out away from the engine (ZX fan had different "offset"), in order to fit my VR sensor mount. This brings the fan closer to the radiator but fits fine. The 280Z fan will bolt right in and probably has the same "offset" as a 240Z fan.

Nice Rob, I was about to post this!

Compression test should be the first thing to do. Do that and report back.

I haven't used one personally, although my dad has had a (VW) head done somewhere in SJ I think? There are plenty around, but the only Z-specific, i.e. worked on Z stuff before, recommendation I've gotten is Rebello.