LeonV

To corroborate Rob, Keith said they're double the spring rate. This should activate the accel pump sooner and give it a stronger shot.

I'm not sure exactly, I didn't get one in the package since I only got springs from Keith. He may have put it in accidentally. Does it have any holes when looking at it straight-on?

Rob, that is great to hear, now I really want to get home and try them out! The stumbling at sudden throttle input (e.g. quick, rev-matched downshifts) has been my biggest gripe.

I wanted a cleaner look and I like that the EDIS module is somewhat hidden underneath the fender. Interference issues are a good point to consider as well. Frankly, the placement was really dictated by available holes already in the body (didn't want to drill new holes). The right fender had perfect holes in it already for a coil bracket and as a bonus, it places the coil pack such that the plug wires stay short. The battery tray area had plenty of space (and holes) after removing the 260Z's emergency start button for a relay/module bracket. Same here. 120 mains shipped from Pierce today, they should arrive tomorrow.

Good to hear, Blue. Will do! I hope you mean psig! Good find, although it may be out of the budget for some. Looks like a good (better?) alternative for the RX7 pump. I've got an RX7 pump sitting around as well, I'll put it to use eventually and see what happens. Yeah, I suppose Lotus guys are OK. Hopefully Keith sent out the missing links today. I'm expecting the mains and Keith's final spring to come in at some point in the week and then I can do some more tests, as long as it isn't wet out.

Tried 110 mains today and they're way too lean. Car doesn't want to accelerate at WOT and AFR reads 15-17. Ordering 120 mains today, those should be close to what I need. Haven't put in the new return springs or pump springs since Keith accidentally sent 2 springs instead of 3. Silly Lotus guys!

Hmm, I remember that I had to get approval before being able to use the board after I registered. You should get an email, probably within 24 hours, which will let you use your account. It's an anti-spam feature.

Rob, here is a good thread covering this: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72457-edis-and-tach-not-working/ Looks like making a 240Z tach work is probably easier than the 280Z one!

Not yet. There are a bunch of posts on making it work but I just haven't done it yet. I'm running a 280Z tach so the solution for a 240Z tach would be slightly different. For the 280Z tach, I've seen at least 2 solutions. I can run a wire from pin 2 on the EDIS module to the stock tach wire. Some have reported this to work. Others tie in the 3 coil pack wires, put in diodes, and connect them to the tach. This has also been reported to work. I haven't bothered yet...

Good stuff Rob, I'm glad the Mikuni guys are involved. I'm very curious as to the results. Steve(s): it would be awesome to log before and after AFR as well as driving impressions!

I'm using a 280ZX fan on my L24 for the purpose of spacing it out away from the engine (ZX fan had different "offset"), in order to fit my VR sensor mount. This brings the fan closer to the radiator but fits fine. The 280Z fan will bolt right in and probably has the same "offset" as a 240Z fan.

Nice Rob, I was about to post this!

Compression test should be the first thing to do. Do that and report back.

I haven't used one personally, although my dad has had a (VW) head done somewhere in SJ I think? There are plenty around, but the only Z-specific, i.e. worked on Z stuff before, recommendation I've gotten is Rebello.

Correct. Or rather, they attempt to equalize. One 140 treadwear tire will differ from the next, depending on manufacturer. This is due to the way that the treadwear rating is determined. Treadwear ratings are something that can be played with and this is actually somewhat described in the TR article. To truly equalize tires, everyone would have to run the same tire. With that said, none of this matters much if you're not trying to win National Championships.

The best advice I can give is it's somewhere on the sidewall. Usually doesn't take long to find it unless the tire is caked in dirt. If you're buying new tires, that information is available to you without having to look at the sidewall.

This should be interesting as I plan to get some machine work done on a block and head. The default suggestion is to go to Rebello, but not everyone needs that. Piggy-backing on this thread, has anyone used any machine shops on the Peninsula with success?

It's on the sidewall, they are talking about 140 treadwear tires. This is not complicated. The Tirerack article does a pretty good job of explaining things. EDIT: We posted at the same time, looks like you figured it out. The TR article describes what the temp and traction ratings signify.

BTW, I played with the Z a bit last weekend. Switched the hypojets from H223 to H221, meaning the smallest air bleed hole. H22 denotes a .022" orifice, the third number is air bleed size with 1 being smallest and 4 largest. A smaller air bleed enriches idle while leaning transition. You can look at the hypojet as a "teeter-totter", which balances out idle and transition mixtures. It's an awesome tuning feature of the hypojet, essentially making 1 idle jet into 4 (e.g. 50F8, 50F9, etc). Therefore, moving to the smallest air bleed enriched my idle while simultaneously leaning out transition/cruise. The Z ran even better! Idle was rock solid at ~14.5:1 at about 1 1/4 turns of the mixture screw and cruise mixtures were leaner, in the 13:1 range. Testing was done on a relatively cool day so I'd like to lean out cruise mixtures further. Keith recommended blocking off a hole in the e-tube to see if cruise mixtures get leaner (part-throttle AFR is controlled by a combination of the idle jet and e-tube), although it may have an adverse effect on transition. If this experiment doesn't give good results, going to a smaller hypojet should do the trick. The only real issues I still have are my carbs not always going back to idle (mechanical issue), hesitation when suddenly jumping on the pedal at low rpm, and going too rich at WOT. New internal throttle return springs and 110 mains are on order from Pierce Manifolds which should help the throttle return and going rich issues. I'm working with Keith to solve the sudden WOT hesitation and will be putting in stiffer accel pump springs as soon as he gets them in. That should strengthen the pump shot. I checked and have size 40 pump jets, but did not check bleed back. Keith believes that the springs will have a bigger effect than changing either the pump jet or bleed back jet. One other benefit I noticed last weekend, the car starts much easier when it's warm. I no longer have to crack the pedal to start it. Cold starts require pumping since I don't have my cold-start units connected, which I never needed before since I was running so rich.

That about sums it up. Enough flow as to keep the floats filled and enough pressure to get the fuel there. I agree that if you don't have starving issues, you're likely ok. I would put a fuel pressure gauge either after the carbs or between the 2nd and 3rd carb and make sure there is some pressure there, if you're really curious. I've taped a fuel pressure gauge to my windshield to test this. Not my fault if your car burns down. I'm still using the stock mechanical pump, but I did block the return line when I was tracking starvation issues. Turns out it was a bad fuel filter, but I never got around to unplugging the return line since it was running well. I should unplug it one of these days for curiosity's sake.

Well put, took the words right out of my mouth! (Except the "Spec tator" bit, nice touch )

I recommend reading for a few months before touching the car. Buy some books on automotive maintenance and fundamentals and go from there. Taking some basic auto tech classes at a nearby community college would help greatly as well.

Agreed.

What, doesn't everybody track their commutes by spreadsheet to find optimal routes and departure times? LOLLOLLOL Yup, you're right! However, SF must still be tackled as I have to drive across the city to get to the Golden Gate. There is no freeway that accomplishes this. With SF done with in a timely matter, it's about an hour from my driveway to the parking stall at work. Looking at my (ahem) spreadsheet, the quickest I've ever driven through the length of SF has been 11 minutes and the slowest at over 40 minutes.

Nice to hear, Julio! Your job description sounds eerily similar to mine. I'm an automation/tooling/anything else engineer at a medical device company and I commute to Petaluma 5 days per week, but live in San Bruno. You'll get used to it, just figure out the best time to leave the house. Certain times of the morning can be great, but rush hour sucks, especially when school is in session. I drove the Z in to work today, made the Friday drive a little more tolerable. What's your commute looking like? If your going up north, I have a spreadsheet.