LeonV

That's what roadside assistance is for! I always keep my AAA card with me, I figure the 100 free miles of towing will either get me home or someplace where I can fix the issue.

My thoughts exactly!

[Peggy Hill]Wow, I did not know that.[/Peggy Hill]

http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/pcv_system_triple_carbs...pics_686437.0.html

Nope, the 18 has 3 holes as well. They might be located and/or sized differently, though. The 151 has the aforementioned advantage of being able to balance individual barrels, but I'd go for whichever set is in better shape.

I noticed the same thing. I can take off from a standstill in 2nd gear, as if it's first. Nice! I should hopefully be meeting with Keith next week.

Taken from: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pascal-laws-d_1274.html In other words, the pressure within an enclosed volume (e.g. the balance tube) is equal at all points within that volume. This means that pressure remains the same no matter where on the tube you put that hose barb.

There is a check valve in you master for the rear circuit. It was needed for the drums but not so for the disks. Take it out and you should be good to go.

Awesome, I've used similar crimpers at work ($300-$400 ones) and realized that I'm crazy not to have a set, but prices tend to not be friendly. This is perfect!

Nice! Your setup sounds more subdued and refined than mine, not as raspy nor the interior as squeaky. Thumbs up!

Download the FSM at xenons30.com and look in the Fuel System section. Now that I look at it, it's a bit blurry, so you might have better luck with the '73 manual. The carbs are similar. "Round top" SUs ('70-'72) are different.

Lucky you!

Thanks for the heads up on the crimper! I've been looking for one just like that, that doesn't cost hundreds of dollars.

It's a great tool, but might take a little practice to use. Dip it in and out of the fuel a few times and look inside the center of the PC tube. You'll get the hang of it quickly, it's an awesome tool!

The only tough part was getting the ignition switch off the steering column. It required a hammer and chisel (screwdriver in this case) to remove the smooth-headed screws.

I remember seeing a Z as a kid and thinking the vertical muffler placement was "cool", since I'd never seen that before.

Had this happen to me before. I ended up removing the ignition switch from the steering column, partially taking it apart and turning it from the back. I probably cleaned and lubed it too. Hasn't happened since.

Right, an intake and/or header can be tuned for any rpm you want, length depends on which rpm and harmonic you're shooting for (usually 3rd because of packaging limitations). A longer manifold will be "tuned" at lower rpm and a shorter manifold at higher rpm. The bandwidth and magnitude can be altered by varying taper. This can include built-in taper and/or air horns. In the case of a header, "steps" are also sometimes used. Having different cylinders hitting resonance at different times is not buying you (as) much. I am. Most carbs have circuits, which can be tuned individually and somewhat independently (e.g. idle circuit doesn't really affect WOT main circuit). There is no reason that a carb can't maximize mpg and power to its utmost potential, unless something went terribly wrong with that carb's design. If you're interested, I've made a few somewhat in-depth posts on intake and exhaust runner design: Intake Exhaust

Mic the bores to know for sure, don't go off of stampings.

Saw a nice, blue 240Z (looked to be lowered and had slot mags) on 101S heading into SF, gave a thumbs up on the approach to the GG Bridge!

Sure, as I've said, it "works". While you may understand the ramifications, others just don't. However, I'd be surprised if there was much of a positive resonance effect with that manifold. With the runners having different lengths, resonance will happen at various engine speeds when looking at different cylinders. This means that while 2 and 5 are in resonance, 1 and 6 are already past the peak and 3 and 4 are coming up to it. FWIW, you can tune pretty much any system for fuel economy at part-throttle and a powerful top end, it's not unique to 4-barrels. With that said, I'm hoping my next major project will be a V8 with ITBs. 1UZ looks tasty...

FWIW, you should be seeing your valves tighten up as you go, as the valves wear into their seats. That wear is high in the first few thousand miles, hence the need to check them often on a fresh engine.

Excellent, gotta love that feeling!

The air corrector should not be used to correct upper rpm mixture, that is primarily the main jet's job. Enlarging the air corrector will affect the transition to the mains (larger AC makes mains come in later, increased potential for flat spot). The AFR curve at WOT is controlled by the emulsion tube/main choke combo. The "right" combo will yield a flat curve.

That would give you a -70mm offset!!!