LeonV

I see where you're going with this, but why get "offended". I could care less what the guy does, he can be a ballerina for all I care. That's not what makes his statements right or wrong. I don't know how much timing is retarded at high rpm, but it sure does not stay constant. Nowhere did Brown say that the design is "wrong" but that it has certain flaws, just like any design. Unfortunately, in the case of the stock chain setup in a high-performance L-gata, the flaw does affect performance. Kameari didn't create their custom chain tensioner for no reason... In Brown's case, it was "better" to slightly advance the cam, but it is up to the end user to determine how much this matters to them. Will the stock chain limit your 7000rpm, 200hp L28? Probably not. Will it limit a 9000rpm, 350hp L-series? Most definitely! Brown is right (don't know about the numbers, but as far as the physics of it are concerned) but it's up to you to decide how applicable it is to your case using whatever method you like.

I've never had a stud break, but patience is necessary. Heat helps a bunch as well. Go slowly, and if the stud doesn't budge then don't force it. That just means you need more rust penetrant and/or heat. Once it's loose, twist it out and if it gets tight then turn it back in a bit (like tapping a hole), and then back out. Rinse and repeat.

Yeah, the 3 holes are for powerband adjustment... what else would they be for? I don't think you're understanding that statement correctly. To paraphrase: cam timing inherently retards as you accelerate the engine. The cam sprocket has holes to advance the cam. If cam timing is too retarded, advance the cam. I don't see any issues with the statement. There is no mention of how much it is retarded, but in order to know that you'd need to dyno your own engine to figure out how much advance is needed.

Any examples of aforementioned "conjecture" regarding the cam write up? Otherwise, your post comes off as conjecture. Honestly, show me what it is that you think is made up and we can discuss.

I get new intake/exhaust stud kits from MSA, they're a bit over $20 shipped. 1. Remove the old studs after applying copious amount of rust penetrant and heat, if necessary. Use the "double-nut" method to remove, thread two nuts onto the stud, tighten them against one another, put a wrench on the one closest to head and untwist. 2. I used Felpro for the intake/exhaust gasket. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and flat when re-installing!

Ok...

Hey, someone's using their head!

Usually, that's what it takes... it's not my HybridZ tagline fer nuthin'! There is no mystery and no tricks when it comes to setting up a cam, if you know what you're doing. And to come full circle, looks like the OP should do some searching and educating himself. I've added a little background, and now it's time to search out the details. http://www.datsport.com/racer-brown.html

It's the other way around, actually. Advancing the cam increases low end torque and takes away from the top end. This happens because the intake valve closure point is altered (obviously along with the others, but this one is deemed more important), and advancing the cam makes the intake valve close sooner. This improves breathing at low rpm by limiting reversion of the fresh mixture back into the intake, however the high end is sacrificed by the earlier intake close point as it doesn't take advantage of inertial ("ram") effects. It's nothing to do with tricks or magic. Apply scientific method and you're there. Someone should write a book titled "Suggestions from a Mechanic Friend" as a how-to guide, or rather, a "how-not-to guide".

Those are helmholtz resonators and they're used on many modern production cars, mostly on intake and exhaust systems. If you look carefully enough, you can usually see tubes of varying size sticking out perpendicular to an intake or exhaust tube. They have nothing to do with speeding up gasses. What they do is damp certain frequencies out (that frequency depends on resonator volume), thereby reducing annoying resonance or "drone" from the exhaust and/or intake. EDIT: Examples Intake Exhaust S2000 IS250

Sounds like you need to set up your carbs right. Go through the procedure in the FSM, Haynes, or ZTherapy video. They'll all get you close.

Decel popping is a sign of a lean mixture. When you go too lean on decel, you will get occasional misfires which send raw fuel into the exhaust system. When this raw fuel hits the hot exhaust and mixes with fresh air, it combusts and "pops" out of the exhaust. Some people tend to like that sound.

Of course! The handbrake system is pretty simple as well. Just a linkage which eventually connects to cables, which split to the left and right rears. The cables attach to the back of the wheel cylinder (lever) with a clevis pin. I adjusted mine recently and it works much better. The FSM has a good diagram on page BR-19, Figure BR-33.

Jeezus, have you ever made a post without mentioning your car? This is getting ridiculous. It's just spam at this point.

Either use a lot of heat and rust penetrant while using vice grips, or have a mobile welder come by and weld the nut on. Should cost you maybe $50-100.

Amazingly beautiful! I'd never sell that if it were me!

I usually reuse the old springs unless they show visual signs of fatigue or damage (usually don't see this, esp. with Z drums). Rebuild the cylinders, install & adjust new shoes and you're good to go. Get new springs and hardware if it makes you more comfortable. I'd recommend adjusting the handbrake once everything else is set as well. The Z drums are great IMO, very easy and simple to work with.

Not sure how you'd go about boring out a cylinder head either...

There are part numbers printed on the springs. The front PN ends with a 1, and the rear with a 2. This seems to happen a lot...

It did, until I tightened the previously finger-tight oil pan bolts.

I would: (1) Install master and gravity bleed all wheel cylinders (2) Bleed master using ports on master and a hose looping from the port back into the reservoir (3) Replace calipers and reinstall rebuilt rear cylinders (4) Finish bleeding using your preferred method (pressure/vac, 2-person, gravity, etc.) Rebuilding wheel cylinders is simple. There are kits at Rockauto.com and probably any other auto parts distributor. Good luck and let me know if you get stuck!

You're right, cookie cutters are boring. Personally, I enjoy something that is built for something besides a spec rulesheet.

And I could always come by if you get stuck!

I agree on the 110 Red. My 260Z is 110 and it's a great color, looks orange in the sun and red in the shade.

Here's your argument, the other way around: Very powerful cars can go fast. Not really news-worthy, either. A Prototype racer is a car in search of a place to race, and that place is the Lemans series. They are built specifically for Lemans. Nothing else. What is the point of a prototype racer? They only participate in Lemans, therefore making them pointless (by your argument). Your quote, with two words changed: Lemans, or pretty much any racing for that matter, is not a matter of "outright speed" but a matter of finishing the race in first (i.e. the "endurance" that you mention). If you want outright speed, go to the salt flats. When a car finishes first, it wins (*said in best John Madden voice*). Doesn't matter how you get there, and that is where innovation is king. Stagnation and complacency are the results of prohibiting and downplaying change or innovation.