LeonV

I know jmortensen did.

Good find, that stuff is great!

I installed ES poly bushings everywhere (rubber on rear of TC rod) in my 260Z a year ago. It took some effort but they feel great. Besides that, I used a generous amount of the supplied grease and have had zero squeaks. The grease is marine-grade and won't dry out, degrade or squeak like the other stuff.

40s are just fine for a street-driven car.

Cam sprocket adjustments are used to correct for timing chain slack, as described in the FSM and other Z manuals. Your thinking is probably correct, if the head was shaved by not shimmed, the cam would be retarded in the 1 position. The cam is advanced by 8 degrees when in the 3 position, compared to the 1 position, which is a lot to correct for just a shaved head. I don't know the exact diameter of the cam sprocket, but if it's assumed to be 4", the head would need to be shaved .280" in order to retard the cam by 8 degrees. You may have had a combination of a shaved head and timing chain that was out of tolerance.

To avoid further confusion, the diff in question is an S12 diff, not S13. The S13 diff is a short nose. Post #4 says that you don't have to do anything to an E31 to bolt it onto an L28, and it backs up what I'm attempting to convey. People mention that you have to put in larger valves to make it work, but that is far from the truth. An E31 won't be any more problematic and costly to use than an N42 or N47, as you proposed. If you already have an E31 and N42 in hand, the differences in using the two are negligible. Altered heads and blocks muddy it up further. I side with your point about just using a stock engine and that is what I'm preaching here, referring to the end of post #4.

Nice! Looks like I'm all set to go, my schedule is clear. I'm assuming Ivan knows about this?

The S12 (Nissan 200SX) Turbo had a 4.11 long-nose R200, which is a bolt in just like any other R200. Any L24/26/28 head is a bolt on on any L24/26/28 block.

Looks like a cool event, I'll try to be there!

Probably the late 260Z at that, I don't believe my early 260 has a cat bump.

Nicely done!

Check the head casting number at the same time. It's located between the #1 and #2 spark plugs, on the bottom of the head. Stock 260Z would be E88 (although stock '72-'73 240Z will be E88 as well).

Not sure what rumor you're talking about. You can put an R200 in any Z, given that you have the correct mounting equipment, i.e. mustache bar and curved rear transverse link bar. This is covered extensively. A stock flat-top L28 block with a stock E31 will have compression in the low 10's and will definitely require high octane fuel. Shave the head and bore the block, and that number goes up. FWIW, the reason that you have trouble with the vac advance of the ZX distributor is because it's designed for an engine with EGR. An engine with EGR needs more advance. Too much advance isn't a good thing and you'll be better off either disconnecting it or running a different vac advance module. The late L28 (F54) came with flat-top pistons, it was the early L28 (N42) that came with dished pistons. One caveat is that turbo blocks (F54) came with dished pistons. You absolutely do not "need" to put in larger valves into an E31 that's going on top of an L28. It gets "recommended" a lot but is not a necessity. This is not a race engine build. Keep in mind that bigger valves, especially on a head with a small combustion chamber, will be more shrouded than smaller ones. This has potential for negative effects unless dealt with. A good build goes much further than a parts list. The only specification you mentioned is "it's just for street". In that case, I'd recommend a stock L24/26/28 with triples, open exhaust, 3.9 (or numerically higher) R200 and late ZX 5-speed. The diff and trans wake up the car way more than a mild engine build. Pertinent information is plentiful and oft discussed, spend at least a few months on reading and planning to make sure you know what you really want. For example, DatsunZgarage.com can get you started with the basics, but don't take everything you read as gospel.

Well then whoever that was is not very well informed. I use lithium grease (Shin Etsu) on all my weatherstripping, it keeps the rubber "fresh".

There were no options or packages, besides colors. All early 260Zs came to the US with the plugs, AFAIK. The console plugs are there from the factory and I believe are there to cover up holes that were used in other (i.e. non-US) markets. The rear cap covers where the rear ash tray would have went on the 2+2 model.

Not saying that you'll get pooling, but what you will have is a tau layer. The tau layer gets bigger as runner temp drops. This necessitates enriching the mixture. As far as heat transfer to the carbs from the intake, do the Mikunis not have an insulator between the intake and carbs? This is pretty universal in the carb world.

I did the same, but had to remove and install the clevis along with the cotter with long, needle-nose pliers. Talk about not fun! The tank on the other hand was not bad. Drop it, attach hoses, run hoses, raise tank. At least my hands fit better in that case! I digress...

Really? I couldn't get my hands near the clevis and the mounting bolts were a PITA. Don't know if my Z formerly being an automatic made it more difficult. I'll take a tank reinstall over that any day!

Nice! I wouldn't want any kids around when doing the clutch master though. Some choice words may slip out...

It is removable, search helps. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread30990.html

I agree, at least for a carb'd car. Keeping the intake warm is a necessity, unless you want to run really rich. This is why air-cooled engines require overly rich mixtures, as they have a huge "Tau layer" in their intake, "Tau layer" referring to the liquified fuel film in the intake. Rich mixtures must be used to cover up any lean holes during operation. It may work okay for racing applications, but you may be better off going without. Nice job though, should be a good experiment nonetheless! You'll never know until you try. Those triples will be roaring soon enough!

FWIW, you're robbing yourself of power using that high of a viscosity.

Consult the FSM for viscosity. Use oil with high ZDDP content.

You're serious? 98% of Zs out there will have at least 1 crack in the dash.

Ok, maybe if you stick a garden hose into your intake. Water evaporates and water vapor is compressible. This is essentially water injection, except instead of cooling your intake charge it essentially steam-cleans your combustion chamber. Nothing wrong with misting some water into your intake, just don't pour it in.