LeonV

There were no options or packages, besides colors. All early 260Zs came to the US with the plugs, AFAIK. The console plugs are there from the factory and I believe are there to cover up holes that were used in other (i.e. non-US) markets. The rear cap covers where the rear ash tray would have went on the 2+2 model.

Not saying that you'll get pooling, but what you will have is a tau layer. The tau layer gets bigger as runner temp drops. This necessitates enriching the mixture. As far as heat transfer to the carbs from the intake, do the Mikunis not have an insulator between the intake and carbs? This is pretty universal in the carb world.

I did the same, but had to remove and install the clevis along with the cotter with long, needle-nose pliers. Talk about not fun! The tank on the other hand was not bad. Drop it, attach hoses, run hoses, raise tank. At least my hands fit better in that case! I digress...

Really? I couldn't get my hands near the clevis and the mounting bolts were a PITA. Don't know if my Z formerly being an automatic made it more difficult. I'll take a tank reinstall over that any day!

Nice! I wouldn't want any kids around when doing the clutch master though. Some choice words may slip out...

It is removable, search helps. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread30990.html

I agree, at least for a carb'd car. Keeping the intake warm is a necessity, unless you want to run really rich. This is why air-cooled engines require overly rich mixtures, as they have a huge "Tau layer" in their intake, "Tau layer" referring to the liquified fuel film in the intake. Rich mixtures must be used to cover up any lean holes during operation. It may work okay for racing applications, but you may be better off going without. Nice job though, should be a good experiment nonetheless! You'll never know until you try. Those triples will be roaring soon enough!

FWIW, you're robbing yourself of power using that high of a viscosity.

Consult the FSM for viscosity. Use oil with high ZDDP content.

You're serious? 98% of Zs out there will have at least 1 crack in the dash.

Ok, maybe if you stick a garden hose into your intake. Water evaporates and water vapor is compressible. This is essentially water injection, except instead of cooling your intake charge it essentially steam-cleans your combustion chamber. Nothing wrong with misting some water into your intake, just don't pour it in.

Looks great, Julio!

I'd never met anyone named Fergus before, figured the name was one-of-a-kind!

I need something lower than a stock seat! The stock seat plus me with a helmet on barely works, most of the aftermarket stuff makes it pretty much impossible for me to fit. Post up your seat when you're done, I'd be very interested in seeing what you come up with.

I agree on this, I'm still on the lookout for a seat that sits low to fit me with a helmet on yet is supportive. Out of the Z's I sat in with different seats, I think the stock ones sit me the lowest.

You can always browse various classifieds and/or make a WTB post, I bet people have them laying around.

Agreed, on all counts. Not the most pleasant or ethical person, but he sure made a name for himself.

No. Look at your brake lines. It's not physical distance from the master to the slave that matters, but the length of the lines between the two. Edit: Refer to figure BR-7 on page BR-5 of the '72 FSM.

FWIW, do the left-rear first. It is furthest from the master.

Wow, actual good advice in a brake upgrade thread? Astounding!

I don't negotiate a purchase, site unseen. I'd go and look at the car first and then talk price, but of course it's too late for that. Second of all, new paint always throws a red flag for me. This means that any rust or damage that could have been present is now carefully hidden from view. Thus, a car with fresh paint warrants an even closer inspection. This involves checking the body over with weak magnets, poking and prodding underneath the car, etc. It can be hard for some, but you must emotionally detach yourself until you've secured a purchase. Physically go and take a look at many different cars before making a purchase, don't fixate on the first one. Good luck.

Yes, all you need are the transverse link supports with the ears for the bar mounts and a rear-mount ARB, such as the ST one.

Those Germans perplex me with their lug bolts.

Sounds like every modern German car, or actually just about every modern car if you're comparing it to a classic. Try working on a contemporary Audi or VW...

Damn, those are some serious spindle pin pullers! Definitely sturdier than the one I have.