LeonV

Syncronization should be done at idle, with all linkage disconnected. Once all throats are breathing equally, make sure all linkage bars are parallel to one another and install them one-by-one on the carbs, making sure at each step that airflow remains unaffected. Once all linkage is installed, check all throats again after giving some blips of the throttle. Airflow should be even. The very last part of syncronization is bringing up the engine to a high-idle (get a helper or hold the linkage by hand, Weber STE makes this process simpler) and checking sync. If it's off, then you have a linkage problem. Sorry for the aside, but I thought it would be a worthy tidbit.

Point well illustrated. I've been noticing the trend as well, but did not realize the scope. US Zs coming into the world market will definitely make their value go up if more and more Zs get shipped overeseas. Interesting...

Yes, it'll work just fine.

I'll just stick my head through the door and add that it's funny when the "rev-happiness" of the L24 is mentioned and compared to the less rev-happy L28. The reason for this is the cam, not the bottom end! Put in a bigger cam in an L28 and it will love to rev. That is all, back to my cave I go.

Nice, post some pics (Porsche and Z)!

Yoshi, this is Leon, the guy that sold you the carbs. I ran these on my first 240Z with the emissions stuff plugged off. The emissions hoses were cracked and old, and there was no AIR pump to be found on that car, so I decided to plug them off as to alleviate some vacuum leaks. The PCV valve should still be in the balance tube, all you have to do is connect your block breather tube, located underneath the distributor to the PCV valve. The flow guide valve hoses should be easy to hook up as well, reference the manual. [EDIT: I think one hose goes to the block breather and the other to the air cleaner, but I'm not 100% on that.] The throttle opener is currently not hooked up, but you could if you wanted to. I rarely drove the car and didn't see a need to make it work, but you could if you wanted to, again the manual will show how it goes (remember to reference '72 and older manuals). If you don't have an AIR pump, and your AIR gallery is not functional or present, then you obviously will not be using the AIR system. There are no provisions for EGR with these carbs, although I suppose you can make that work if you wanted to by using the flat-top balance tube. Good luck and let me know if you run into any problems!

You had trouble keeping engine speed consistent at idle, or were you doing a higher-speed syncronization?

Have you taken off the filters to see if you can spot the culprit? Loose venturis will demonstrate these symptoms. If the venturis all check out, run the car with the filters off and observe. I always keep an extinguisher nearby when doing any sort of fuel-related work.

Interesting, let us know how this turns out.

If you can comfortably put your hand on the carbs after hard driving, you don't have a heak-soak problem. I'd be surprised if your carbs got very hot with header wrap and a heat shield. Do you have rubber isolators between the carbs and manifold?

...here comes Idiocracy! The turbo has electrolytes. It's what cars crave.

Why would you do only the front? You will have a terrible ride and handling if you have a stiffer, lowering spring in front and a soft, stock spring in the back. That's a lose-lose in my book. All else you seek can be found with a quick search, perhaps with key words such as "Tokico", "springs", "lowering", etc.

So you're saying that if I were to fully restore a Z and decide to sell it, I should sell it for $6k just to keep prices reasonable? That's pretty unreasonable. Supply and demand is exactly it. I can put my 260Z on ebay right now with a starting bid of $50,000. This does not mean that anyone will buy it, nor does it mean that it automatically raises the prices of other cars. If you're not willing to pay $5,500 for an automatic 240Z with a locked up engine, and nobody else is, then the price of that Z will drop because it is not in line with the value of the car. Value is determined by the buyers (market), not the sellers. If you want to keep the prices of Z-cars down, then don't buy expensive ones. However, don't be surprised when somebody else scoops up a nice Z for more than you thought it was worth.

Obligatory question: have you checked plugs/wires/cap/rotor?

Download the FSM and set to factory specs. You will be much farther ahead having done that.

Perfect! LOL

FWIW, never use vise grips on an exposed stud. Instead, lock together two nuts by spinning them into each other and then proceed to loosen. I've learned this lesson more than once... Good luck Yoshi, hope you get it started without trouble! Filling the floats as Captain suggests is a good idea if you want to get it started without cranking forever.

Not a Z, please go ruin a Civic.

Type in "Sidedraft Central" into google and it's the first one to come up. Sidedraft Central

I know Keith Franck of Sidedraft Central has been working with the 2's quite a bit. I think they came standard on the Lotus 7. David Kizer has a paper on tuning his 2's on the board, looks like it was discovered that the progression holes on that carb are too big (among other things), leading to an off-idle stumble. The solution is to use inserts that Keith Franck developed, in order to downsize or even plug some progressions holes.

Definitely, Philip! That place is awesome!

Exactly. My problem with the Unisyn is that it has a big effect on flow into the carb, it's essentially a choke. If you follow the proper directions for using the Unisyn, they say to only keep it on the carb for as short as possible in order to get a good reading. This makes carb-to-carb measurements somewhat tricky and less precise as this method leads to inconsistencies. You also need to make adjustments to on the unisyn in order to get the ball reading in the correct range. The flowmeter takes all the guesswork out of it, and leaves much less room for error. The Weber tool is very easy to read actually, easier than the unisyn. Plus, the graduations are clear and much finer which makes consistent measurements very simple, and there is no adjustment necessary in order to go from idle to high-speed balance. It also has a nice tapered rubber seal to place against the carb inlet. Overall, it is a more accurate and user-friendly tool. The unisyn gets the job done but is more prone to error and a bigger pain to deal with. If I needed a tool to syncronize carbs, I'd get the Weber tool without a doubt, especially considering that they cost the same amount! Carburetor syncronizing is so much quicker and simpler with it. Note that I've never said that a unisyn won't work, it's that the STE just works much better. Like I said, ask someone that's used both, or better yet, try the flowmeter yourself.

Nice job, impressive work!

Nice, looking forward to it! I need to go back to the dyno as well to see what difference my Motorsports header and twice pipes made.

Someone can see the light!!!