LeonV

Dave and others are spot on. If you did not diagnose a problem with the engine which dictates a rebuild, then you definitely should not assume that it needs one. You will be way ahead if you take the steps to diagnose any problems with the engine before you go digging into it. It's a good idea to replace the water pump if you don't know the history of the engine, and that's a simple/cheap job, especially compared to a full-on rebuild. I would set valve lash and check compression. If your results are good, then put in a new water pump, intake/exhaust gasket, along with any other maintenance items that need attention (gaskets, hoses, fan belt & clutch, etc.), and go drive the thing!

Now those are funny!

If by that you mean disagreeing with thoughtless statements, then yes, that's normal.

It sure didn't seem like it from your first post:

Seems like you're then one without a clue...

BTW, power is very much a product of fuel delivery method as well, since different fuel delivery methods have their own inherent pros and cons. Carburetors use venturis, this is an inherent pressure drop caused by the fuel delivery method of any carb'd engine. Equally sized ITBs will make more power. Port fuel injection injects fuel essentially at the valve, thus there is much less opportunity for the injected fuel to homogeneously mix with the air. Less homogeneous mix equals a less efficient burn which equals less power. Not as big of a deal as a venturi, but it's still there. This is why high-performance (read: race, "not for highway use") engines inject before the throttle body, not at the valve. These things all have to do with how fuel is introduced into the intake/engine, thus fuel delivery very much affects HP. In the case of carburetors, the fuel delivery method directly affects airflow. In the case of port injection, the fuel delivery method affects the way the mixture is burned. The causality is the same for direct or TB injection. This can go on for any system, so making a generalization such as HP not being a product of fuel delivery is incorrect and at best a gross oversimplification.

Right. I'll quote myself, with some emphasis added this time: Also, MS can be (and often is) used to go to distributor-less ignition. A completely tunable timing curve will give you more power compared to using a distributor, because of total spark map control and essentially zero spark scatter.

The last two headers mentioned in this thread are just MSA headers. You can get them way cheaper from MSA themselves. Link Nissan Motorsports still advertises their header, but as far as I know, you can't get those anymore.

Personally, I would've passed on that car anyway. The search for the right car takes a while, so if you have patience and know what you want, it will happen eventually. Good luck!

Performance will increase if the spark and fuel maps are done adequately. Removing the restriction of the AFM (not needed with MAP based EFI, aka "speed-density") gives you inherent gains in performance. All aspects of engine performance will be better, again, if done correctly.

Just install it inside the old ECU case and you're good to go!

That is baffling logic, John. You mean changing spark plugs and putting in a new fuel pump won't solve everything?

Thank you, that's exactly what I'm saying! Relax, people.

A danger? By touching the car when stopped? Gimme a break. If, of all things, you're scared that someone will touch your car while you're driving then by all means just keep it in the garage. Were you at the anti-football run? I was there in my Z along with a couple other Zs and a Skyline! I agree that some cyclists can be complete morons (as can any other person), but that doesn't mean that we should morons back to them. I too get annoyed when they hog the road and feel all self-righteous, but I'm not going to shoot them or run them off the road. I've seen a guy almost run a cyclist off the road, it's stupidity at its finest. Sounds like some people just need to take a deep breath and relax...

That doesn't look normal to me. Although the picture may be deceiving my eyes, it looks like your rear wheels are toed in excessively. I don't know if the bushings have enough slop to cause that. If your rears are truly toed in, I'd look for bent parts or incorrect installation.

Seriously? He's a danger on the roads for letting someone know that they have a taillight out? I don't follow. That's one of the most idiotic things I've heard. Nice attitude. Wave a gun at everyone, that makes it all better. What's with all the pent up rage?

Yes, that's how it came from the factory.

Coop, you indicate that the difference between your Reno and Laguna Seca is about 14% so I'd expect the differences between Reno and Sac to be less. I'll use your link for an example. Looking at current (8am) Reno conditions (24 degF, 30.18 inHg, 71% humidity), assuming 4500 ft elevation, your density altitude is just below 3000 feet. If a 100 degree Sacramento day is 2700 ft density altitude then there is not much of a difference here! Back to my original point, you may not have to change much, if anything, at all. Climatic swings affect carb settings just as much as a change in altitude does, so there is no need to worry unless you make a really big change in altitude and/or climate. With that said, getting your initial tune done right is a whole different story!

This is exactly what I was going to say, so thanks Steve! Most parts interchange with either a 240Z or 280Z. There are plenty of free resources available to cross-reference and find the part you need. I love my early 260Z, it has a certain quirkiness to it which I enjoy. Plus, it has the nicer 280Z interior but the lower weight and electrical simplicity of the 240Z.

That's very good advice, coop!

Brainfart on my part on the WBO2. What I am saying is that your tune is affected by the climate of the area you're in, not just the elevation. I'm not saying that you must constantly tune for each condition. You have moved from one climate (and elevation) to another and you're curious as to how the jetting may change. The point I am making is that you should consider the average climatic differences between Sacramento and Reno, not instantaneous ones. You did go up in elevation which would make your mixture richer, but let's just say (making things up here) that on average Reno is 10 degrees cooler and more humid than Sacramento during driving hours. This would dictate jetting the carbs richer, all else held constant. This is why it's hard to say whether it should be richer, leaner, or stay the same. The only way to really know what to change, if anything, is comparing data-logs from your WBO2 from Sacramento and Reno. The more sample days the better. You're right in that corrected dyno numbers will be lower (aside: interesting comparison with the 914 since that's about the % difference in air pressure!). Dyno results are usually normalized ("corrected") to a standard temperature, pressure, and humidity (we've essentially covered why this is necessary, reference the link above for more). What the dyno actually measures is assuredly different! Therefore, dyno numbers are a red herring, since temperature and pressure variations have been taken into account when the data is presented to you. You have use of a WBO2, so you are your best source of information regarding the jetting changes that must be made to your engine. Nobody can answer that question better than yourself, especially since you don't even have to guess with the wideband. Relying on heresay, "he did this, I did that" is a lot less effective, and more time consuming. If your engine runs fine and you get similar gas mileage then don't worry, all is fine! Since you've just installed the wideband, it makes comparisons difficult as you don't have anything to compare to. Get the AFR where you need it in the weather that you typically drive in and you'll be set. I'm just saying that it's not exclusively elevation that will dictate what that WB says and what jets you'll ultimately settle for. Day-to-day changes in temperature, pressure, and humidity can make notable differences in AFR that you may as well leave the carbs alone if the AFR is "close" to where you want it and everything is running right. How "close" depends on your discretion, which is controlled by your knowledge of the subject at hand. That was the intent of my original post. That's a beautiful Z! I would love to hang out in the garage although I seldom make it out to Sac and can't say that I've been to Reno!

I'll take responsibility for that mistake, as I was reiterating what others have said to work and haven't done it myself. Didn't know there was a difference in shifters between early and late 4-speeds as all my Zs have been 5-speeds. Will the later 4-speed shifter not work? Many have said that swapping the shifters works, is there another one that can be swapped and will work?

Swap shifters from the 4-speed to the 5-speed and there will be no cutting required.

I'm a bit confused as you initially said that you disagreed with me, but then your statements agreed with me. You can manipulate a carburetor to do whatever you want it to do, it's just up to the end user to take advantage of that fact. Yes, air pressure decreases as you go up in elevation, thus you will run richer with all other variables held constant. This is one factor that goes into carburetor jetting, and fueling an internal combustion engine in general. Many EFI systems use a MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor to correct fueling for air pressure changes. Here is where you contradicted yourself: you stated that you don't dispute the effects of weather and even gave an example why it's so! Temperature is a major factor in engine fueling. Air gets denser as temperature drops, and this is why you'll find that engines "like" cooler air. Cooler air means denser air, which means more air is entering the engine, and thus more fuel can be burned along with it. More air+fuel equals more power. I wholly disagree that you cannot utilize this for carb tuning purposes. A car that lives in a cooler climate will be jetted richer when compared to one that lives in a hotter climate. This is the reason why modern fuel injection systems use IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensors. Your point about water injection brings up the reason for humidity being a factor. By utilizing water injection you are changing the relative humidity of the air coming into your engine! More humid air means a cooler charge by way of evaporative cooling. This effect is a secondary one when compared to air temperature, but it is still there, especially as evidenced with water injection. More humid air means a cooler charge, which leans the mixture for a given amount of fuel. Thus, your engine will possibly be rich at 4500, but not necessarily. I don't know how it is in Reno, but I do know that Sacramento gets hot as hell in the summer. If your carbs were tuned during the Sacramento summer, then your mixture will be leaner at colder temps. Combine this with your now-increased altitude which makes you mixture richer, and it's not necessarily clear as to what changes must be made. There is a reason why I asked whether you were actually having a problem with your carbs or not! If it drives the same and gets similar gas mileage then nothing needs to be changed in the way of jetting. I assume you don't have a wideband O2 sensor installed, because that will show you how dramatically the mixture can change with varying conditions, even without changing your altitude. However, it seems as though your "butt dyno" has already shown how much temperature changes can affect engine performance! FYI, the true stoichiometric (not magic...) air-fuel ratio for E10 gasoline is about 14.2:1, not 14.7:1. FWIW, Leon

You'll probably have to lean it out just a bit, if at all. I'm willing to bet that seasonal swings in temperature, humidity, and air pressure have a more drastic effect on the carbs than just going up in elevation. Make considerations moreso for the climate that you're in, instead of purely elevation. e.g. If you're higher in elevation, and it's hotter and more humid, then you'll want leaner jets. Are you having problems with your carbs?