LeonV

I'd guess the loose manifold bolts had opened up an air leak. Glad you got it fixed!

You can also test your clogged jet theory by fully closing each idle mixture screw one-by-one and seeing if it affects the engine.

Vacuum leak is the first thought that came to mind. Vac leaks are most apparent at idle, less so at part-throttle, and essentially unnoticeable at full throttle unless it's a huge leak. I set my floats according to the top-down method, I don't pay attention to how they're actually angled as long as they're all relatively similar.

Both sizes half slim choices for tires. You can get either okay-but-not-great summer tires or aggressive street/track tires. I'd go for the latter but it depends on what you use your Z for...

Wish I were in the market, I'd seriously consider it. GLWS

I had Blues all around as well. Agreed, ride quality is definitely subjective. Bushings are tuned to the rest of the suspension and the desired handling performance of the car. If you stiffen the suspension and want to make the car corner better than originally designed for, the rubber bushings are no longer a match (too soft). For someone looking to cruise around, they're just fine.

I'll do you one better...

Dampers are one of the most critical aspects of ride quality. I've had the Eibach/Tokico combo in the past and thought they rode poorly. It seemed to be due to a combination of too stiff compression damping in the Tokicos and the fact that the springs put the struts almost on the bump stops, especially up front. I'm running Bilsteins with coilovers on 250/275 springs and they ride fantastic.

Most definitely.

'77-78 got a vented hood.

Here's my setup, 16X7 wheels with 225/50-16 Bridgestone RE-11A:

FYI, that tire's diameter is 2" smaller than stock.

Wheel diameter doesn't matter, it's tire size that will cause rubbing. For stock bodywork and zero offset wheels, 205/55-16 seems to be a sure thing. I run 16X7 0-offset Panasports with 225/50-16 Bridgestone RE11-A rubber but my front valence and rear fender lips are trimmed. I ran 16X7 +6 Panasports on my previous Z with 225/50-16s with no rubbing issues, although I was running an aftermarket air dam. Also keep in mind that tire width can vary wildly between makes and models of tires, Tirerack is a good resource for more true-to-life numbers as they actually measure the tires so that you can compare apples-to-apples. Here are some common tire sizes that match OEM diameter and should fit the wheels wells. It succinctly describes the current situation of running smaller wheels than 16". Using Tirerack to evaluate availability: 14": 195/70-14 - No performance tire options 15": 205/60-15 - One tire, Yokohama A048 (R-compound, not for cold weather or standing water) 205/50-15 - Lots of great options but a much smaller tire diameter than stock 16": 205/55-16 and 225/50-16 - TONS of great options In short, are there tires available in the proper sizes for 14" and 15" rims? Yes. But if you want anything else besides cheapo econo-car tires or truck rubber, you need to go to 16" or run a non-factory rolling diameter tire.

Because they're owned by Renault?

Why do you need smog ports? Does NJ smog-test 240Zs? CA does not, the testing cutoff is 1975 and Zs did not have smog ports by that time.

Volk TE37V, of which the Rota Grids are knockoffs.

Air horns don't depend on air turbulence around them for functionality. They work by smoothing out the airflow (reducing flow separation) as air enters the intake. They also perform another function of increasing the effective intake length and altering intake resonance in order to tune the engine's powerband.

I've recently found that it's more accurate to measure lash with the mouse-trap springs removed from the rockers, FWIW.

That's correct. Feel free to PM me if you want more info although as I understand it may not be exactly what you're looking for.

I have a friend in the SF Bay Area looking to sell his 240Z. I believe it's an original 112 Yellow car although it needs a respray. The body looks to be in really good shape, I didn't see any rust during a quick inspection (doesn't mean there isn't any of course). It's a solid base car, although the fenders have been cut and flares installed. PM me if you're interested and I'll connect you guys.

Glad I could help, Jim.

I'm glad you like it! Great job getting it all together.

The hammer and socket method posted above works well.

Planning to finally get one of these by the end of the year, glad to see improvements are being made!